|
190.
J22 Sails, Trailer, Winch & Rudder
191.
J22 Dropping the mast?
192.
Washboards & davits
193.
Rubbing strake......again
194.
What's in a name!!
195.
J27 Holding Tank cont.
196.
j21 mast bolt
197.
anchor anger !!
198.
J27 displacement
199.
J25 Mast raising/lowering
200.
Boat purchase paperwork
201.
j27 How to reef the mainsail originally
202.
Mariner 6 - Tilt
203. J22 Adding a ladder
204.
J27 Rig Sizes
205. J27
Hull ?
206.
J22 Offshore
207. COMPASS GLASS
208. J22 I LOOSE
MY KEEL
209. J27 RIGGING TENSION
210.
J25 Genoa furling gear
211.
Smelly Feet
212.
Sail Clinic
213. AY sail
logo
214.Hatch garage
215.
NUMBER OF HULL
216. DIRTY BOTTOM
217. WATER
218. WHITE SILK
219. Catalina Direct
220. J28 ??
221. J21 ROLLER GENOA
222. J21 Asymetric Spinnaker
223. j27 tall rig
224. Saildrive Prop
225. Captain Patrick Childress
226. Tall Rigs, Short Rigs and all that Jazz
227. J25 Dimensions
228. cooling water
229. J21 Lifting keel - access
190.
J22 Sails, Trailer, Winch & Rudder
Posted on 27/7/2003 at 11:26:40 AM by David
Gough
Wanted a second-hand mainsail, jib and genoa in good condition for my
J22. I also wish to purchase a twin axled trailer for my J22. Please contact
me ASAP if you are selling any of the above. Can anyone please give me
advice of what type of replacement swinging keel winch I need and where
I could buy one for my J22? The current winch seems to be a galvanised
trailer winch and is in poor repair. Does anyone know if there is such
a thing as a suitable electric wormdrive winch for the J22? I also need
some info about the spec of the J22 rudder - where can I buy a new one
or how is the lifting mechanism supposed to work? Any help with this project
would be a greatly appreciated. Thanks
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 12:42:31 AM by Laurie
These items have been extensively covered in previous correspondence,
which the assoc. webmaster has archived. Go to the homepage, & see
archive 1. Hope this helps.....
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 11:02:11 PM by patrick
thomas
Winch; original is a clever clutched mechanism available from Catalina
Direct in the US. They do a handbook /manual/catalogue worth having. Also
US Catalina 22 Association does a technical brochure. Most of this is
on their website; but they will supply it on CD also. Rudder, just remaking
mine as it dissapeared, so have a good deal of info; altho not clear on
raising lowering original idea. The uphaul went around the back of the
swivel bit; but those I have seen like that are jammed! My lost one had
a thick shock cord as a downhaul, and a line direct to the blade as an
uphaul; which was OK. Trailer; if you possibly can buy one; secondhand
ones wont fit and will be a nightmare to modify. Make sure the boat sits
down very low for ease of launching; and in my opinion dont put any weight
on the keel; (except its self weight) because the play in the pin will
put the whole weight and leverage on the keel mounting blocks and or the
housing. Genoa; see reply to my similar request a month or two ago. I
have now ordered a 150% genoa new; some confusion as to correct dimensions.
Best of luck!
191.
J22 Dropping the mast?
Posted on 27/7/2003 at 10:02:49 PM by Richard
varcoe
Am looking to by a J22 to use on the Norfolk Broads. I have seen one for
sale with a conventional mast head rig. Is it easy to convert it so the
mast can be lowered and raised easily whilst underway? Where can I purchase
the A-Frame/tabernacle??
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 12:40:03 AM by Laurie
There sre some 22s on the broads (hire) so converted: either speak to
the hire company, or contact any of the fabricators in the association
directory of reccommended suppliers. (FOC to members)
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 10:47:21 PM by patrick
thomas
The trick is to use a gin pole and to secure whole rig so it cannot move
sideways. I've found out how to do this the hard way and would be glad
to let you know how. Can you recieve a fax?
192.
Washboards & davits
Posted on 27/7/2003 at 11:09:36 PM by Robin
Does anyone know of a supplier, new or secondhand, of perspex washboards
for a J25? We've just bought our 1st Jaguar and sailed it home this weekend.
Had great fun navigating Harwich! Also, I'm considering putting davits
on, any views or advice anyone?
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 12:36:29 AM by Laurie
-see your members recommended suppliers directory (FOC to all members),
just had some made myself!
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 05:43:36 PM by Gordon harris
re: davits. Our J27 has two sturdy stainless vertical tubes welded to
the stern of the vertical bits of the pushpit. Removable shaped s/s tubes
drop into the welded ones. They are bent to shape so the upper part projects
upward and backwards to the rear. There are various lugs welded on for
the blocks and to enable lines to be taken forwards for added strength.
If this is of interest I can email pics to you.Also I have a pair of aluminium
factory davits that I dont use.
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 06:29:35 PM by Robin
Hi Gordon, Yes I am interested so please email the pics! Do you think
they would fit a J25? Not sure what the difference is around the pushpit.
Why don't you use the aluminium ones? [email protected]
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 08:37:32 PM by Gordon harris.
Robin, will dig.photo aluminium davits, or do you want pics of s/s ones?
let me know. We have not fitted the al. ones because we haven't used either
of the davits. The s/s ones came with the boat and the aly ones we found
in a skip, They need tarting up as far as I can see.
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 09:53:00 PM by Robin
Don't really mind which as long as they are easy to fit and don't look
too obtrusive :-) How come you have never used them? I think i need them
as I have an outboard as opposed to an inboard and we like to take the
dinghy with us, towing okay until mooring at a marina. Also where we are
hoping to moor we will be able to use a river taxi to get to her instead
of the tender. What part of the UK are you? I'm in Clacton on Sea.
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 10:32:50 PM by Gordon harris
I'll send photos of both tomorrow.The s/s ones are part of the boat, but
you could use the idea.If you can weld they should be quite easy to make.The
aly ones are the big girder-like ones you see all over the place.In your
place I would have a small inflatable bundled up,covered and tied to inside
of pushpit.House in Ipswich, boat on Deben at Waldringfield.Aly davits
spare
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 11:03:40 AM by dick
Hicks
I bought some tinted Perspex to replace the internal sliding locker doors
above my cooker from a company on the Old Cattle Market in Norwich, but
can't remember the name; try the Yellow pages. If you take the original
along they will cut to the same size.
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 10:05:03 AM by Steve
O'Connell
If you are in the Essex area I can recommend Fibresports in Basildon.
Call 01268 527331 and speak to H or Steve. They will also do mail order.
Posted
on 28/7/2003 at 06:31:30 PM by Robin
Yes I am in Essex, thank you. Once measured I will give them a call.
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 12:37:36 AM by Laurie
- so why haven't you sent the details in for the directory??!!
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 10:29:22 AM by Steve
O'Connell
...because I have been in Germany working, and then did a delivery to
Poland. This is the first 'normal' week I have had since beginning of
June, which is when I picked my washboards up! I will be sending details
of them, plus others shortly!
Posted on 11/8/2003 at 04:28:23 PM by Laurie
Good attempt, but I'm the only one that has legitimate excuses for not
doing stuff.....however, a trip to Poland.... now that sounds good?
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 01:21:06 PM by Gordon harris
We tried perspect washboards in the 70's, but since have preferred what
we call "harbour doors".We have fixed sets of drop-on hinges
either side of the hatchway. At night, or in bad weather we drop in the
doors. They are made of 6mm ply,one of them having an opening plastic
window, hinged at the top. This is very useful when cooking in the ran.
The big advantage is that to go outside one simply pushes the doors out
of the way. They don't have to be very robust as they spend the boats
'dead-time' i.e. when we are not there inside the boat.Our present ones
are 9 years old and still good.If anyone wants a pic let me know.
193. Rubbing
strake......again
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 11:52:52 AM by bernadette
steve, did yacht solutions supply your new one or did you get it for them
to fit? also did they find the fibre glass match for you? this is all
becoming an ongoing saga!
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 09:43:59 AM by Steve Alexander
Yacht Solutions supplied and fitted the new rubbing strake. Because it
was renewed all the way round there was no need to try to match the original.
The fibre glass repairs certainly match in colour - i'm not sure how they
do that but a quick phone call to them will probably provide an answer.
The finish is much better than the original which is now dull and has
minute specks on the surface which seem to be engrained. Because there
was only a relatively small area repaired around the starboard quarter
the difference in appearance is not that obvious.
194. What's
in a name!!
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 10:05:10 PM by Robin
WE have just bought and returned to her mooring our first Jaguar. This
is only my second boat and the first that I have bought with my new partner,
i'm really pleased with her, quite pleased with the boat as well!!
Anyway, my partners friends were staying in Mersea with someone who apparantly
knows a bit or two about boats, on receiving a text from her friends asking
what boat she was so they may pass this information on, she asked what
she should put. Without thinking I replied a "shaguar" bearing
in mind that we haven't been together that long! On seeing her friends
who came to see our new house, they commented that their friend in Mersea
had heard of them and that they were "quite good" Distant memories
or bullshit? what do you think?
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 10:09:55 PM by robin
True story!
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 10:36:33 PM by anon
Now we know why you want davits.
Posted on 28/7/2003 at 10:39:51 PM by Robin
And where do the washboards fit into this equation? lol
195. J27
Holding Tank cont.
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 02:31:36 PM by Head
Mistress
I found a reference: (http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html)
to a book(USA .... of course) by "Peggie Hall, well known marine
sanitation expert known as “The HeadMistress” who has finally put it all
in print. Get Rid of Boat Odors is the penultimate achievement of Peggie's
career, and the only published guide to all aspects of marine sanitation:
toilets, holding tanks, hoses, and all the various ways they can stink
up your boat." "This book is a must-have for any boat with plumbing."
It sez.
Our old SL400 works just fine, having found the spare parts,and with a
thorough service by Dave ... the Turdherder. We had a good sail Southsea/Lymington
and back last weekend!
Posted on 30/7/2003 at 12:19:30 AM by Grahame Lloyd
I have been whinging on about holding tanks for some time. With this book
tip from Hilary I scented success and tried to order it. Amazon don't
have it and the publishers charge twice as much for shipping as the cost
of the book. I didn't order it! Incidentally, I wonder what Peggy Hall's
ultimate achievement was and why is she called the Headmistress . . .
Posted
on 30/7/2003 at 08:55:57 AM by gh
We have found that the slightest back leak in the duck-bill outlet valve
allows horrible liquid to seep back into the loo pan, thus ensuring a
foul stench to greet you each time you come aboard.The valve needs inspecting
and cleaning or replacing as soon as you detect the smell.Usually it is
a calcium-like deposit holding the valve open very slightly.We have found
this on 3 types of loo; we now arrive to a un-noxious smelling boat.
Posted
on 30/7/2003 at 03:12:14 PM by Jeremy
Knight
How about getting it to laurie for seacats?
Posted
on 30/7/2003 at 03:15:01 PM by Jeremy
Knight
Not sure exactly what I did there. I was meaning to reply to the message
about the 25 review in PBO. But it turned up here.One moment youre talking
about holding tanks, the next I suggest you send it to Laurie - you must
have been confused by my response!
196.
j21 mast bolt
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 05:34:18 PM by james
johnson
I have just purchased a jag 21 which i intend to trail sail. The mast
pivot bolt was 10mm which seemed too small. The holes in the tabernacle
were 12mm so i replaced it with a 12mm bolt. The mast itself could probably
take a 15mm bolt so i am wondering if it is intended to be a sloppy fit?
Posted on 29/7/2003 at 10:26:18 PM by paul
The bolt is a loose fit with my J21 too - I think it has to be a bit loose
if you want to lower the mast with the bolt still in place (eg with an
A frame or using the spinnaker pole as a brace). Due to the shape of the
foot of the mast, it means the bolt rises a bit in the tabernacle as the
mast initially swings back.
Of course if you have use of a mast crane (as we do at Hoo Ness YC) life
is simpler!
197. anchor
anger !!
Posted on 2/8/2003 at 06:17:17 PM by Dave
Clark
where can I stow me flippin anchor?. At the mo its sitting in its blocks
to port at the bow and changing the jenny in a blow I'm fed up with kneeling
on the sharp bits and leaving bits of me knee behind on it. Don't ask
me to change to roller, it takes the fun out of it, I like to get back
from a pleasant days sail having to be carried off the boat, motored home
and taking three days to recover....know what I mean, anyway Hil won't
let me.
Posted
on 4/8/2003 at 11:03:06 AM by Jeremy
Knight
Mine too is to port on the deck. But having the roller, I do not find
its position a problem. However you don't want to hear that being a roughy
toughy headsail change man. I have seen people having them hanging on
the pulpit, indeed my boat has a couple of rings on the pulpit for exactly
that purpose. Not sure what you do with the chain before it goes down
the nelson eye. I could imagine it could get in the way a bit. I also
imagine that it would depend on the anchor design. Something that folds
flat would I am sure be fine. But a CQR or plough would hang there with
bits sticking out - not ideal for snagging sails and exposed knees.
The other options are to either unshackle it and stow it below - how much
do you actually use it? Alternitively it can have the flukes hanging over
the bow roller with the shank on blocks on deck - watch it is organised
not to take huge chunks out of your stem though. I've seen some boats
fit metal protectors to the stem to avoid exactly this sort of problem.
Posted on 11/8/2003 at 04:19:47 PM by Laurie
Also being a toughie headsail changer (too tight fisted for furlers!),
if you ave a Danforth style it can be accommodated on either the side
or hung fro the front of the pulpit, however, I suspect you have a CQR
type which, short of its removal every time, can only really be stowed
on the rollers.....unless someone knows otherwise......
198. J27
displacement
Posted on 4/8/2003 at 10:01:46 AM by gerrit
Andela
Hi there, "The DISPLACEMENT of a jaguar 27 is originally 5600 LBS,
2540KG NB It will be found that many boats will be more than 1 tonne heavier"
Who can explain the > 1000 kg difference in a 27 feet hull? (my jaguar
is 3400 kg has a 50 liter diesel en 50 liter watertank)By the way, what
a excellent summer this year!!!!
Posted
on 11/8/2003 at 04:14:33 PM by Laurie
As I'm responsible for those figures & the addendum, the paraphanalia
of cruising, the stuff we load our boats with, is what makes them heavier.
My own 27, which admittedly is a one off to Lloyds hull spec., weighs
in at a tonne over quoted displacement.......
Posted on 8/8/2003 at 08:15:17 PM by Gordon
harris.
What's your ship called? I agree with Dick about the DEBEN, DOZENS OF
Dutch and Belgian boats here this year.
Posted on 4/8/2003 at 06:26:15 PM by dick
Hicks
The original displacement is direct from the builder; one will have ineviyably
added on loads of stuff to go cruising. Warps, fenders, extra sails, spares,
water, tinned food, diesel engines usually heavier than initially installed
petrol, personal gear, lifejackets, anchors and chain, dodgers, jackstays,
spinnaker & pole,cockpit cushions, bucket, gas bottle, bigger batteries,
electronic gizmos, VHF, radio, lifebelts, etc etc etc. It's surprising
how it adds up. Plus of course the hull will have absorbed some moisture
over the years...
Mine weighed 2800Kg with everything removed from inside, including bunk
cushions, sails, ropes, empty water tank etc.
I agree, excellent summer, but my cruise to Holland has been abandoned
on doctors orders....
Posted on 6/8/2003 at 10:24:44 PM by gerrit
Andela
Thank
you, Dick, But still I can't imagine that my ship when it's almost empty
a 1000 kg heavyer is than normal, probably it's my wife's beautycase,
I almost forgotten to count that. Yesterday I had my first meeting with
the salt water, I left the harbour of Ijmuiden and had a perfect time.
Next year I hope to do the 270 degree 24 hours to Lowestoft, maybe we
meet half away.
Posted
on 7/8/2003 at 06:51:52 PM by Dick
Hicks
Wish you luck next year with your trip to Lowestoft, don't forget lower
down the coast is the River Deben, much nicer than Lowestoft, and a much
easier entrance this year.
I had planned a second trip to Holland this year, but had to abandon it
on doctor's orders... I will definitely go next year. Let us know your
itinery next year and maybe we can meet up, together with other local
Jaguar members.
Posted on 10/8/2003 at 07:35:37 PM by andela
I will contact you when the plans are more avanced.
Thanks for the idea of the River Deben
199.
J25 Mast raising/lowering
Posted on 7/8/2003 at 10:07:20 PM by Colin Bishop
Somebody interested in buying my J25 is querying the practicalities of
trailer sailing it. Apparently this is quite common in the US. Does anyone
have any ideas on the best way to raise and lower the mast given that
it is seated in a tabernacle?
Posted on 8/8/2003 at 09:26:41 AM by Hilary
Hallo Colin, It might be worth exploring the following US website for
their experiences. http://www.catalina25-250.org/index2.html
Certainly the yanks trail Jag 27's about. On biiiig trailers behind biiiig
trucks.
Posted on 8/8/2003 at 05:58:28 PM by Colin Bishop
Thanks Hilary, I did have a look at that site, they seem to take trailing
for granted over there. However, as our American friend pointed out at
the rally - all our fittings are different from theirs!
200.
Boat purchase paperwork
Posted on 9/8/2003 at 05:54:29 PM by Frank
Barnard
I'm about to clinch a deal buying a boat privately. Longer-term ambitions
include trips to Boulogne etc. I understand the French/Dutch authorities
require original Bills Of Sale etc. What other paperwork should I secure
when I hand over the money? I imagine insurance dox are also mandatory.
All advice gratefully received...
Posted on 12/8/2003 at 10:17:51 PM by Colin Bishop
The RYA have a Bill of Sale and also a "Buyers Beware" guide
plus a draft purchase agreement. These are downloadable in PDF format
from the WEB but you do have to be a member of the RYA and registered
on line with them to access the documents.
Posted on 11/8/2003 at 04:09:22 PM by Laurie
Are you buying from here or France. If you're buying from France,&
keeping it here, then proof of VAT paid on the boat is required: however,
if your boat was built prior to this requirement, which if its a Jag 22/25/27,
then almost? certainly this will not be required.......
Posted
on 11/8/2003 at 05:36:24 PM by Frank
Barnard
No not buying in France, buying in the UK...but I understood you still
had to prove ownership of the vessel. Could this be some new requirement
in the light of 'human trafficking' etc?
Posted
on 12/8/2003 at 01:22:33 PM by Laurie
If built before 31/12/84, proof of VAT is NOT required. Proof of title;
from a broker should be a doc. to ensure boat is free from encumberances;
only PROOF available is Part1 registration. NOT Part 3 or SSR Private
sale; any invoices, bills of sale. Ensure, as best you can, that the boat
is not security against a loan or mortgage
Posted
on 12/8/2003 at 09:22:21 PM by Hilary
The RYA do a helpful booklet on this topic.
201.
j27 How to reef the mainsail originally
Posted on 10/8/2003 at 07:48:46 PM by andelaHi
there, Does anyone know how to reef the mainsail of the 27 originally.
In my boom are two pulley's at the end and some holes but I don't know
how to leed the reefline from the sail. (my mainsail has only one reef)
A whinch is also not there I think its the original boom.
Posted
on 11/8/2003 at 04:05:07 PM by Laurie
The original system was roller reefing, but that was soon discarded for
slab reefing which is what your boom sounds like it is for...? However,
if this is so, your boom is designed for two reefing pennants (two reefs),
whereas your sail sounds like it is fitted for one........
Posted on 11/8/2003 at 10:38:56 AM by HilaryWe
put slab/jiffy reefing on the original boom on Salve Nauta to reef a new
fully battened sail. Previously there was none.Have a look at these 2
websites for a bit of help. Whilst they apply to Wayfarer dinghies, principles
apply. Ours works. http://www.imagic.demon.co.uk/openboat/yerbury.html
http://www.angelfire.com/de2/WIT/JiffyReef.htm
A word of caution ..... measure carefully the length of your reefing line
before buying lovely pre-stretched rope from chandler!
Posted
on 10/8/2003 at 10:36:48 PM by gh
Ask around your boatyard about "JIFFY REEFING". If you have
no luck we can email you a drawing if we know your email address.The previous
owner of our J27 said that in 18 years he never reefed the main sail.
and we haven't in 8 years.I fitted jiffy reefing to an earlier boat that
was tender and it worked very well.
Posted on 11/8/2003 at 08:53:30 PM by gerrit
Andela
Thank you all for the tips, I think there is a lot possible, the sites
of jiffy reefing makes a lot clear. I trie it
202.
Mariner 6 - Tilt
Posted on 13/8/2003 at 03:29:14 PM by Steve
O'Connell
Can anyone help? I have a Mariner 6HP for my J22 and it has a tilt lock
on it. When the switch is in the tilt unlock position I still cannot tilt
the engine. Any ideas, apart from brute force and ignorance?
Posted
on 13/8/2003 at 06:14:11 PM by gh
Have you swivelled the engine? The reversing thingy might be engaged.(To
stop the engine tilting when reversing)
Posted
on 14/8/2003 at 01:35:24 PM by Steve
O'Connell
Thanks for that - I have just been told that I need to engage fwd gear
and then it will tilt!!
203. J22
Adding a ladder
Posted on 13/8/2003 at 10:43:40 PM by Denis
I plan to add a boarding ladder to the s\b side of the transom on my J22.
I checked how the outboard was attached - there is a backing board both
outside the boat and inside the port locker - but there doesn't appear
to be anything between the aft 'wall' of the locker and the outer skin
of the boat - they're simply pulled together. The s\b locker aft 'wall'
appears to be flexable enough that I could put a backing board inside
the locker and bolt through to it from the outside however I feel that
the backing board should be between the locker and the outer skin of the
boat but I don't see a way of getting it there. Someone must have done
this already - any experiences or suggestions. Thanks Denis
Posted
on 15/8/2003 at 08:13:10 PM by Paul
Hi Denis, I have a boarding ladder in exactly that location on my J21.
It is simply bolted through both the outer hull moulding and the inner
liner moulding and the only backing inside is penny washers! Not even
a plywood pad....if i had done it myself I would have put some in.
However i have to say that so far there is no sign of any crazing or cracking
around the bolts even though i heave my 13+ stone up it regularly. These
Jaguars seem to be stongly made! Paul
Posted
on 19/8/2003 at 06:46:48 AM by Denis
Thanks Paul, having read your comments, I fitted the ladder on Saturday.
I'd prepared a bit of teak I had lying around, but it was too thick and
wouldn't allow me mount the ladder as high as I wanted - so I just used
the ss backing plates that came with it - a bit bigger than washers but
not by much.
Given your experiences, adding a ply wood back drops to the end of the
'to-do' list.
204.
J27 Rig Sizes
Posted on 15/8/2003 at 08:50:53 PM by Geoff
Everything comes to him who waits!! But it wasn't what I expected!Do you
remember the discussion we were having about J27 rig sizes just after
the South Coast Rally? This is the text of the reply I had from Catalina
Yachts...
========================================
Geoff,
The difference in mast height on the Catalina 27 between the tall and
standard rig was only 1.5 feet (0.457 m). I don't believe we offered /
offer a tall rig option on the Catalina 270. The tall rig is ordered by
people who sail predominately in light air and need the extra sail area.
Hope this helps.
========================================
Since I got the dimensions for the 2 rigs off their own site you'd have
thought they'd have had more info than this wouldn't you! If Catalina
don't know what hope for the rest of us!
Jeremy, I think you were right probably right; one was designed as a racing
rig. Mind you, it's curious that Bernadette's rig is not only taller but
'fatter' as well! Good Sailing,
Geoff
205.
J27 Hull ?
Posted on 16/8/2003 at 08:56:16 PM by Kev
Hall
Hi, as a new owner of a Jag 27 I'm still getting to know her. Have been
busy fitting new GPS, repeater, Navtex, replacing and fixing lots of stuff
!! Sorry I'll get to the point, I purchased a fishfinder to help navigate
some of the places I want to visit on the N.E. coast as it shows the contours
of the bottom, easier to stay in the channel entering ports. The transducer
is a transom hung one but in the info it says I can use it as a in hull
one just the same. The problem being the literature says it has to be
solid fibreglass. Not sure if the Jag hull is solid or sandwich?? The
transducer's working fine in the water. Inside the boat next to the hull
it doesn't work. Any ideas. Many thanks Kev
Posted
on 16/8/2003 at 10:06:22 PM by gordon
I epoxied our fishfinder transducer to the hull under the forward berth,(about
a foot forward of the loo compartment) six years ago and it has worked
perfectly.
Posted
on 17/8/2003 at 00:30:23 AM by Kev Hall
Thanks for the replies guys. I just rested the transducer in exactly the
same place you did gordon. Maybe it's because I didn't epoxy it in but
I wanted to see if it would work first. I know the transducers working
and don't want it transom mounted, want it in front of the keel. thanks
again, I'll let you know what happens. Kev
Posted
on 17/8/2003 at 10:51:29 PM by Gordon harris.
try pressing the transducer into a blob of blue tack or plasticene, and
then press that onto the hull and see if it works. It should do, then
you will feel safe in fixing it permanently
Posted
on 18/8/2003 at 10:32:23 PM by Kev Hall
Thanks
Gordon good plan, will definitely try that. Read one of your posts about
the steps you made. Don't know if the picture was posted anywhere on the
site (can't find it) but would like to see one if you could e-mail me
a photo. Much appreciated. Kev [email protected]
206.
J22 Offshore
Posted on 17/8/2003 at 10:48:09 PM by Andy
B
Hi all owned a J22 since 1990 coastal sailing. the maximum conditions
that she has been in is a F7 5 metre wave heights. she comed well, I am
thinking of going further down to the Cannaries for some extended crusing,
has anyone or do anyone know of a J22 going on an extended cruise? or
any experiance out there willing to share? Or any heavy weather advise,
apart from don`t do it, for a J22
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 09:49:17 AM by Hilary
Have a look at this website. Whilst referring to the sea of mexico, some
basic offshore guidelines are recommended. http://www.baja-haha.com/Guide/
I subscribe (freely) to this usa message board: [email protected]
That reflects varied experiences including offshore sailing, and the sort
of boat to choose.
Posted on 26/8/2003 at 10:17:46 AM by Laurie
Yes, devise a locking system for the keel. The one design weakness the
22 has for offshore work, is that in the event of a knockdown, the keel
will slam back into the hull, & with all the open storage below,the
boat will sink rapidly;
1/
locking system for the keel,
2/ compartmentalise the lockers below
Apart from that & all the usual mods for offshore work, I'm sure she'll
cope very well. Have you read Colin Mudie's book "Sopranino"?
See also the winter edition, SEACATS........
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 09:38:05 AM by SteveO'Connell
Laurie, Any ideas for locking the keel down on a J22?
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 02:30:35 PM by steve
edwards
Here I go again. Catalina Direct from the Foredeck. Do a kit, bracket
and bolt with instructions. Basically you glass the bracket to the casing
and drill a hole for the bolt. Bit technical for me, kits still in the
garage, along with the packing kit they do. This takes up the slack on
the keel which makes the locking bolt ineffective.(the slack that is).
If anyone has done this please let me know. I was concerned that the packer
would put an undue strain on the keel casing. Also although I have checked
my swivel pin and bronze housings my keel only drops fully down if I rock
the hull from side to side. Just before anyone suggests I have replaced
the keel winch, cable, and turning ball.
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 08:19:47 PM by laurie
Bingo!
Posted
on 25/8/2003 at 10:04:41 PM by Paul
Mead
Hi Andy, I'm sort of preparing my Jag 25 for a similar trip but have not
yet been able to commit to a year. I've been working on various bits and
pieces and this year invested in a windvane system. I'd be glad to share
notes. Paul
207.
COMPASS GLASS
Posted on 20/8/2003 at 01:57:20 PM by gh
Our Plastimo Contest compass lens is misty on the reverse side,the side
that faces into the cabin.Whatever we clean it with clears it for about
a second and then it mists up again.What do we use? I know someone out
there knows, I used to know myself.At the moment I can't lie on my bunk
and check my wife's steering.
Posted on 20/8/2003 at 09:38:13 PM by gerrit
I can't give an advice to solve the misty problem, but I 've learned to
trust my wife's steering when I lie on my bunk, that's a lot more relaxed.
succes
Posted on 20/8/2003 at 08:27:07 PM by dave
clark
If this is just mist?, trot along to your nearest motorcycle shop and
get a tube of GLOOP, follow directions and thats that, or (cheaper method)
put a little amount of washing up liquid on a cloth and clean the glass
with this until the liquid had dried and "presto" thats that.
If that doesn't do the trick smack the flippin thing with a hammer and
board up the hole.
Posted on 31/8/2003 at 01:36:19 PM by Mike
Ashfield
Hi, Sounds to me like the misting goes when you wet the "glass"
because it fills in the scratches or crazing until it dries out again.
So, if you can find something to polish the surface you might improve
matters. It would have to be a very fine abrasive and you need to check
that the solvent doesn't attack the surface itself (perhaps that's how
it got like that in the first place). Gliders have plastic screens so
aviation supply shops sometimes sell a polishing agent which might do
the job. RD Aviation have MicroMesh
http://www.rdaviation.com/
and
RD Aviation Ltd
Oxford Airport Pilot Shop
Oxford Airport
Kidlington, Oxford
OX5 1RA
(Tel) (0)1865 841441
(Fax) (0)1865 842495
(e-mail) [email protected]
Micromesh. £ 21.95
An ultra fine graded abrasive kit for scratch removal from plexi glass
canopies. KR70
Good luck, Mike J21 66 "Jacana"
Posted on 31/8/2003 at 06:14:33 PM by gh
thanks Mike.I think you have identified the problem, I now know what we
are trying to do.Will let you know.
Posted
on 1/9/2003 at 01:22:38 PM by jeremy
You might try brasso, believe it or not. I had a similar problem
with the windows on my boat. Had a good go with brasso and hey presto.
Also plain old T-cut is not too abrasive.
208.
J22 I LOOSE MY KEEL
Posted on 25/8/2003 at 02:55:30 PM by Jean
Louis de France
The connection between chain and keel is broken.So I can sail only with
the keel down. In september I take my J22 dry and it will hang under the
krane . Question : which material must I provide in order to repair? Is
somewhere a picture or technical drawing? because the repair has to be
done within short time due to the rent of the crane. After repair I put
the J22 on trailer and go home for winter
Posted
on 26/8/2003 at 10:06:56 AM by Laurie
Jean Louis, Email me direct (see homepage), and I will send all
the information & drawings to you. It is not difficult to do.
209.
J27 RIGGING TENSION
Posted
on 26/8/2003 at 10:39:29 AM by Kev
Hall
Hi, got the boat fairly sorted now, most of the jobs done. Started to
tweak now but haven't much idea about the rigging tension. Lots of advice
from people at yacht club but it differs so much ! Thought best to ask
other Jaguar owners, she's a MK 1 Jaguar 27. Any help and advice welcome.
Thanks Kev
Posted on 26/8/2003 at 01:36:10 PM by Dick
Hicks
Hi, Kev. The rigging should be tight. First set up the side shrouds(to
the mast head) fairly tight - if you use a standard spanner/screwdriver
you will get it about right, it will be practically impossible to overtighten
it with hand tools. Tighten the forestay & backstay, again tight -
you are trying to get minimum sag in the forestay when sailing in a brisk
breeze say F4. The lower shrouds should now be tightened equally, BUT
make sure the mast is STRAIGHT(squint up the mast). Adjust accordingly
to get equal tension all round. Then take out for a test sail in a F4/5
breeze. When close hauled, the leeward shrouds should NOT be slack, but
still reasonably tight. Repeat on the other tack. Note which shrouds are
slack and tighten accordingly. MAKE sure the mast is still straight both
fore and aft and sideways.
One important point - If you have never removed and inspected the 'U'
bolts for the Lower shrouds, make sure you do at the earliest opportunity.
They CORRODE internally where the stainless steel is hidden by the GRP.
You will probably get a shock if you inspect them... I tried to tighten
the nuts on one of mine to try and cure a deck leak, it sheared off and
when finally removed, it was almost halfway eaten through! ALL the four
U bolts were the same. They can be replaced with WICHARD ones,(sorry can't
remember the part no) the holes line up exactly and they are the next
size up(M8 nuts instead of ¼" Whit).
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 02:23:32 AM by Kev
Hall
Thanks Dick, thats just what I wanted. With reference to the 'U' bolts
for lower shrouds, they've all been replaced with beefier ones. Had to
also replace all the plates underneath with bigger and thicker ones, spreading
the load a bit more. As you know it my first keelboat so once I started
digging around a bit I got quite a few shocks!! The gentleman who had
the boat before me had done some rather strange things to the plates underneath,
needless to say in my opinion weakening the whole setup. In fact I'm amazed
one of them didn't tear right through the deck!! It has resulted in two
minor cracks just under the windows on the two rear shrouds. As I say
everthings been beefed up and replaced just didn't want to tension the
rigging too tight as to cause anymore damage to aforementioned areas.
What I've been doing to check if the mast is straight, you can tell me
if it's wrong, is to take the genoa halyard that obviously goes to the
top of the mast and hold it down on the outside of the boat level with
each shroud. Checking that on both port and starboard the length of the
halyard is the same for each corresponding shroud. Hope I explained that
ok? Anyway at the moment she's sailing fine but I obviously need to tighten
all the shrouds a little more as there is a little sag on the leeward
shrouds when sailing.
Thanks for the help.....till the next time....... Kev
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 11:09:28 AM by Jeremy
Knight
There is a whole article about rig tension in Practical Boat Owner this
month that you may find useful. In the links section of this website there
is an unofficial Catalina 27 website. This has a mast tuning guide which
is good - I have inserted a link at the bottom of this message that will
hopefully work. Just in case it doesn’t the link is http://www.geocities.com/catalina+27/commisioning/commisioning.html#mast
Your idea about using the halyard to check the mast is upright is spot
on. If not upright this is corrected using the uppers. Check also the
mast is upright fore and aft by tying a weight to the halyard and ensuring
it hangs close to the track. You also need to check the mast is in column
(i.e. not bent into a banana shape). If you sight up the track you will
be able to see if it is bowed one way or the other. This can be adjusted
with the lowers. You then need to sight the boat from abeam from a distance.
You should be able to see if the boat has the mast bent forwards/aft.
This is adjusted with the forward lowers and the fore/back stays. It should
never bow backwards (i.e. with the middle pulled back and the top and
bottom forwards). Depending on your mast you may want a little bow forwards
as it shows the forestay is tensioned and takes a little fullness out
of the main. But unless you are a top of the fleet racer, I would not
put much bend into the mast - IMHO it only puts extra stress on the rig.
Certainly I would never put more than 3” of bend in.
To be on the safe side, make sure you are not compressing the deck or
bending the boat with rig tension. With a Jag there is a good compression
post in the cabin and the boat is solid, so this should not be a problem.
But it’s easy to check - just lay a straight batten or metal rod along
the coach roof and ensure it remains straight.
Catalina
mast tuning guide
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 11:49:40 AM by Kev
Hall
Thanks Jeremy, from what Dick and yourself have said I feel I can set
the boat up properly now. Only raced dinghies in the past, but I'll spend
the rest of the season getting to know her a bit better and sorting out
the best setting to rig her, then maybe next season I'll put on the new
genny I got with the boat and enter a few races at the club. She's the
only Jaguar we have at the yacht club my family and I are a members of,
and it's been quite amusing getting back to the bar after a weekend trip
up the coast to hear some of the members say "that boat of yours
is quite quick isn't it". Seems that the cruisers in the club always
say I don't want to race, been there done that. But it's amazing to see
them when you get close to start tweaking sails and pulling on sheets
to try and get that little bit more speed. Maybe it's just me coming from
a dinghy racing background but if two or more boats are in close proximaty
there's a race on. Come on admit it we all do it!!
Thanks for the help guys. I'm at the bottom of the learning curve but
I'll get there, maybe!
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 01:13:56 PM by Dick
Hicks
Glad the info is useful, As you say it it must be the racing dinghy background,
I find I'm always tweaking the sails - especially when sailing in company
with my friend who has Contessa 28 - which I regularly beat - much to
his annoyance especially as he has a new genoa this year... I just can't
help it, Jaguars are faster boats without tweaking!
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 08:16:07 PM by laurie
see also article in archive section
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 12:59:44 AM by jeremy
Out of interest, which club are you with. Good luck with the racing -
Although I have to say I am one of those who says that I don't want to
race. I had a few years of doing it fairly seriously, and frankly got
fed up to the back teeth with it. But you are right, I still can't bear
to be passed!
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 03:14:56 PM by Kev
Hall
Must admit guys nicely surprised how well the boat goes!I've joined the
Royal Northumberland Yacht Club at Blyth on the N.E. coast near North
Shields where I live. It's perfect for what I want, cheap moorings, can
get in and out of the harbour at any state of the tide. And being a member
of a sailing club for years when younger, I like the club atmosphere as
opposed to berthing in a marina. A few have had a strange look when I
said I might be interested in racing, not sure what the Jaguar handicap
number is? Was always called yardstick in dinghies, is this still the
case?? Anyway I'm sure I'll give a few a run for their money. There are
quite a few expensive out & out racing machines, but I'm not expecting
to win anything. My 11yr old daughter seems to have a flair for sailing,
which I would love to nurture to it's full extent. I showed her once how
to use the telltales on the genoa , she took the helm and we passed two
boats on a beat up the coast. I don't know who was prouder, her for passing
the other boats or me of her.
Anyway guys thanks again, no doubt have something else soon..........
Kev
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 06:07:57 PM by Grahame Lloyd
We have just returned from a superb fortnight in the Channel Islands with,
I confess, sagging leeward shrouds - set up by the riggers after fitting
a new forestay! Even so, the passage from Braye to the Needles only took
10 hours. What is very satisfying about the J27 is how sea kindly she
is. The wind was E F5 and the sea state rather rough and still we averaged
6 kts!
This is our first year with an Autohelm. It takes the tedium out of long
passages and is a far better helmsman than me!
210. J25
Genoa furling gear
Posted on 26/8/2003 at 07:49:35 PM by Paul
Mead
I need to replace my genoa furling gear after it went 'twong' (not a metallic
twang thankfully) as the plastic swivel at the top broke clean away whilst
beating back to Pin Mill from the Pyefleet on Monday. I'll be replacing
an old Plastimo 609 with probably a Plastimo 608S (single track). Does
anyone have an opinion good or bad about Plastimo furling gear? Is there
anything out there that is better?
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 01:07:26 PM by Dick
Hicks
Have you tried getting it repaired? I got some spares from Plastimo several
years ago for an early furling gear and they were quite helpful. They
are in Hampshire somewhere I think.
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 10:12:13 PM by Paul
Mead
Thanks Dick. The thought had crossed my mind. Like some of these older
systems I find the furling line sometimes wraps itself around the drum
and generally it looks like it's seen better days. I was thinking of cutting
future losses and just replacing the whole lot but it is worth a second
thought. Regards Paul
Posted
on 27/8/2003 at 12:38:28 AM by jeremy
I
hear that Bamar make very well engineered furling systems. However like
all highly engineered products there are disadvantages. The size is often
an issue on smaller yachts - this photo is of a typical deck fitting
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 08:23:39 PM by laurie
size isn't everything!
Posted on 27/8/2003 at 10:24:29 PM by Colin Bishop
Maybe, but come into port with one of those on the front and you'd sure
get respect. Mind you the prop would be out of the water....
Posted
on 28/8/2003 at 09:37:19 AM by jeremy
Believe me, I know size isn't everything, but it is an impressive piece
of tackle though. Its actually the roller gear from Mirabella V which
is being built on the river itchen here in southampton at the Vospers
yard. In all she should be just under 300' long - the largest single masted
yacht ever. She is due to be launched at the end of the summer - so keep
your eyes peeled cause it could make a good day out. J
Posted on 28/8/2003 at 10:06:52 PM by Colin Bishop
Might give my aircraft carrier a run for its money then!
Posted on 29/8/2003 at 09:36:32 AM by Jeremy
Knight
An iteresting collision rules conundrum that. If an aircraft vessel in
a narrow channel (constrained by her draft, flying a black cylinder)meets
a 300' sailing vessel also in the narrow channel(Constrained by her draft,
showing a black cylinder and under sail), who gives way? Particularly
interesting if the sailing vessel is havign to keep to port because of
wind, or is even in the process of tacking across the channel.h
211.
Smelly Feet
Posted on 28/8/2003 at 09:22:59 AM by jeremy
Some of you will recall that a few months ago I initiated a scientific
investigation into a potential solution to the problem of smelly feet
and sailing shoes. I now can report the interim results, but those of
you of a sensitive disposition may not care to read on!
The proposed solution was to put the offending shoes into the freezer
overnight. Once removed and defrosted, the smell should be gone. I undertook
the test on a pair of shoes I wear everyday, often without socks, that
were giving off a particularly pungent odour. The results were:
1) Initially the smell had indeed disappeared. This was of course a promising
start.
2) For at least 6 weeks the shoe treatment seemed to be working fine.
3) Unfortunately a couple of weeks ago the control conditions of the experiment
broke down. I managed to acquire a case of athletes foot. I put it down
to a shower I took in a communal French toilet block, where as you know
the hygiene conditions are not up to good old British standards! It was
a particularly vigorous infection of the sort known in France as “le fromage
galopant de pied” which causes the feet to give off the whiff of ripe
Camembert.
4) The infection spread to the shoes, so that they too smell, and as such
I need to restart the experiment once the foot condition has been treated.
A disappointing result in that it is not totally conclusive. However,
I am encouraged by the initial results. I will report again in the future.
212.
Sail Clinic
Posted on 28/8/2003 at 01:43:59 PM by Kev
Hall
Hi again, read the sail clinic article someone mentioned in the PBO. I
know it was a different boat but the article showed them sheeting the
genoa in inside the guardwires while beating. I have mine outside the
guardwires and can point quite close to the wind. What do you guys do
?? Inside for beating, outside for running and reaching ?? I can sheet
in so the genoa is level with the guardwires all the way down the boat,
but then again the sheet track in the article is inboard of mine. Mine
are at the edge of the deck under the guardwires. Cheers Kev
Posted
on 28/8/2003 at 03:59:39 PM by Dick
Hicks
My J27 also sheets on the toerail and my sheets are always inboard which
is fine for beating, but would be better outside when running & reaching.
But as it would be a hassle to keep moving the sheets from inside to outside
the guard wires(& Visa versa, they stay inside! They chafe a little
on the guard wires but not to any great extent - I'll live with it.
Posted
on 28/8/2003 at 04:48:35 PM by gordon
We have our foresheets inside rail but have put split plastic pipe on
rail to stop chafe.Each set of pipe lasts about 5 years but is worth it.
Posted
on 29/8/2003 at 01:26:21 AM by Kev
Hall
I have had mine on the outside since I got the boat, mainly because on
the first reach I did in a bit of a blow it didn't look right with the
sheet against the guardwire. Gonna try it inboard at the weekend though,
gonna get the rigging set up properly as well. Thanks guys............
Kev
Posted
on 29/8/2003 at 09:46:48 AM by Jeremy
Knight
Reading through the messages above it all sounds like that arguement in
the sun about how John major tucked his shirt in. "Does he put it
inside or outside(of his underpants)". I have mine on the outside.
I have found that the slot between the main and the jib is too big though,
and moving inside the rail did not help. So I have now rigged a tricing
line (just a piece of rope tied to a block that can be snapped open and
over the sheet). Tied to the bottom of the mast and with the block clipped
over the sheet, this very effectively closes up the gap. Only use it on
long beats, but would recommend it. I am thinking about rigging 2 (one
on either side) permanently with bungy retaining cords to pull the block
down to the top of the rail when the sheet is loose. But I will need to
test it first as it will change the sheeting angle when on a close reach
(Sheeting angle is not that significant when broad off or running).
Posted on 29/8/2003 at 11:28:36 AM by Kev
Hall
Hi Jeremy, the tricing line idea is a good one. You said it didn't help
the slot to bring the sheets inboard. How much did it help fitting the
tricing line, could you point much higher or did just improve the
sail trim ? Kev
Posted
on 1/9/2003 at 08:26:13 AM by Jeremy
Knight
It seemed to improve the trim a little. I don't think it helps with the
pointing - I think the key here is the forestay/luff tension.
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 11:42:27 AM by Laurie
Abolootely.. My sheets are outside, or is that me, 3 sheete to the wind......
however, I'm still able to sheet in to the shrouds, so why bring them
inboard-assuming that tracks & cars are on the toerail......?
213.
AY sail logo
Posted on 30/8/2003 at 10:47:45 PM by David
Gough
I have been offered a secondhand main sail with a red diamond logo containing
the letters 'AY'. What does this stand for and is this a genuine mainb
sail for a J22? Thanks
Posted
on 5/9/2003 at 09:13:14 AM by laurie
-alacrity
Posted
on 2/9/2003 at 03:27:37 PM by Denis
I bought a 'J22' last year and it too has a AY sail logo (Nbr 3832). I
spent a bit of effort trying to reconcile the discrepancy but never quite
got a definitive answer - my 'understanding' is that the J22 and Alacrity
are the same boat. The design was licenced from Catalina Yachts in the
USA by Eric Birch who initially started marketing them as Alacrity (the
Vivacity was already in production) but soon changed to using the Jaguar
name.
So, I think the sail should fit, but I'd check the measurement!
If anyone has solid info on the development of the name or differences
between the two I'd be keen to hear about it - one does like to be confident
about the type of boat one is sailing - it would be right bummer to be
contadicted in a pub one night or worse - expelled from the JOA as an
impostor!
Denis.
Posted
on 8/9/2003 at 12:42:18 AM by Laurie
You are right, the Jaguar name was a later addition that was introduced
to market the new range in Europe. They had to beat off complaints from
Jaguar cars, who tried to stop usage of the name..........
Posted on 1/9/2003 at 07:31:20 PM by Phil Tomaszewski
Forgive me if I'm mistaken but I'msure if I was I'd be correected soon
enough. It could be a mainsail for an Alacrity, which are not to disimilar
to the Jag 22's. There is a boat that has such a mainsail on Rutland water
in the Midlands where I sail that has such a mainsail. I could make further
enq's if need be.
Long ago there was the JAVA association which stood for the Jaguar Alacrity
and the Vivacity? association( the V has gone out of my head).
But as I said if I'm wrong there'll be someone here who'll be able to
put you right.
As to whether the sail would be good enough would depend upon the lengths
of the foot etc and as to whether it is the correct size, it should be
as I beleive they came out of the same mold.
Posted on 2/9/2003 at 09:22:55 AM by Steve
O'Connell
The 'V' stood for Vivacity - 20' bilge keeler, 4 berth yacht.
Posted
on 8/9/2003 at 12:44:11 AM by Laurie
The Vivacity range contained several boats from 16 or 19' to 24'
214.Hatch
garage
Posted on 1/9/2003 at 06:03:11 PM by Roger
Doran
Does anyone know where abouts i could get plans for of a mould for the
main hatch garage that i have heard rumours of. Also has anyone tried
devising a self tacking jib mechanism? if so would you please contact
me on this address [email protected]
Posted
on 2/9/2003 at 07:50:57 AM by Dick
Hicks
Is this for a J27? If so I would also be interested. I saw one a year
or so ago, at Titchmarsh marina and was going to take a mould off it to
make one for me, but this project was at the bottom of the list of 'things
to do'.
Posted on 2/9/2003 at 08:06:38 PM by gh
Also on my maybe list,keep us all informed.I did successfully cast a hull-following
fridge box with gel-coat and polyester, so I might start from scratch
and design and make my own.If I do I'll make the mould available.
215.
NUMBER OF HULL
Posted on 2/9/2003 at 07:19:17 AM by Udo
Path
Hello, I'm an owner of the jaguar 25 and until now I have searched the
hull number (Build /serial number). Is there any one who knows where I
can find this number. Regards Udo
Posted
on 2/9/2003 at 09:14:52 AM by Jeremy Knight
It should be on a metal plate somewhere on the inside of the hull. Builders
hide them in the funniest places, but I fi=ound mine in the locker next
to the batteries. Often it is only glued on, and over the years has fallen
off and been lost.
Posted on 2/9/2003 at 08:00:46 PM by gh
our J27 builders plate was found in a locker. A previous owner screwed
it to a bulkhead in plain sight.I think the reason it was done like that
was because the hull and deck builder was different to the fitter out,
who would not want someone else's plate on his sales product.Our hull
chap was Seamaster and the fitter was Russell Marine.I think that Dick
Hicks (J27) also found his plate in a locker.
Posted
on 3/9/2003 at 07:52:40 AM by Dick
Hicks
Nope, it wasn't me who found it in a locker, but I would like to know
what my hull number is...
Posted
on 21/9/2003 at 05:49:20 PM by laurie
Seamaster, who moulded hulls for a number of builders were more reliable
than Russell Marine in this respect
216.
DIRTY BOTTOM
Posted
on 2/9/2003 at 08:17:28 PM by gordon h
Anyone help with this? Our J27 is launched in early March.By late July
we Usually but not always have horrible stuff on the bilge (hydrides I
think). Scrubbing on posts only lasts a fortnight. Boatyard craning in
and out plus new anti-fouling can cost over £200.The river Deben is notorious
for fouling because the surrounding farm run-off does'nt get flushed out
with each tide.
Posted on 3/9/2003 at 08:00:07 AM by Dick
Hicks
Hi, Gordon, This season I used Jotun Guardian, but only one coat(I was
trying to do it on the cheap). I scrubbed her about 6 weeks ago, and I
only gave a light scrub as I was removing most of the A/F. I still have
enough Jotun A/F for next year, but after that I will probably revert
to Flag and 2 coats - but I am at Felixstowe Ferry not Waldringfield.
The Flag A/F is £39/2½ litres & I use 5 Litres for 2 coats and this
has worked well in the past.
Posted
on 4/9/2003 at 08:57:08 AM by Jeremy Knight
There is a new product that supposedly is exceptionally good at keeping
bottoms clean - Clean-Ex. It may not be the cheapest, but it is soft and
strong, so it works better than a hard antifoul. It also goes a long way
so is better value for money in the end. There are different grades -
you need to go into the chandlers and ask for Clean-ex Velvet.
217.
WATER
Posted on 2/9/2003 at 08:27:48 PM by Gordon harris
At this time of the year our engine cooling water stops or is reduced
about once an hour(three times today, going from Waldringfield to Harwich
and back).I clear it by poking a piece of dowelling through the strainer.I
am building a loss-of-water detector and buzzer instead of watching the
exhaust all the time.Help anyone?does anybody know about the new cafe
at Bawdsey?
Posted
on 3/9/2003 at 08:07:12 AM by Dick
Hicks
Hi again Gordon, I also intended to fit a 'water flow detecter' this year
but it got relegated to the bottom of the 'to do' list, so will attempt
it this winter. It was described in PBO about 2 years ago. I still have
the article and can send a copy to you if you're nterested.
Heard about the new Cafe recently but have not visited it yet. I assume
it's the College who is running it, I should visit it as I'm a member
of the Bawdsey Haven yacht club!
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 08:59:33 AM by Jeremy Knight
I'd love a copy of this artical. Any chance of a photcopy to 27 east sands
burbage wilts sn8 3an?
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 01:39:52 PM by Jeremy Knight
Top Man - Thanks.
Just a question, which may be answered by the artical. My engine has a
water temperature sensor, which ignites a warning lamp if the water gets
too hot. I was thinking about putting a buzzer on it because the warning
light is tucked away in a locker (not much use really). Presunable a water
flow meeter is an improvement in that it will function as soon as there
is a stop in the water. Where as if there is a stop in water there is
no hot water to trip my water temp sensor.
Like you I am fed up with peeking over the stern at the exhaust. And if
I am off watch, who is to say if the crew will look at the exhaust or
not. After all (as I have said before on this board) my crew are a lazy
wobegotten bunch of scurveied scum.
Posted
on 5/9/2003 at 08:49:59 AM by Dick
Hicks
Posted this morning. Yes, the water flow is fitted between the water inlet
and the jabsco pump and will operate as soon as the flow stops. I meant
to do this this spring but other jobs took precedent and it got put to
the bottom of the list.
With your water temperature buzzer, this will work, but probably only
after the flow has stopped for a few minutes, which will of course have
destoyed the impellor. It only takes about a minute - I jumped on board
one day desperate to catch the tide over the bar, forgot to turn on the
inlet seacock, raced off and had only gone about 100yds when I realised
the engine note was a bit loud and the awful truth dawned on me..... I
stopped the engine immediately, dived below and changed the impellor in
about 30 seconds(I had fitted a SpeedSeal earlier in the year), and I
was on my way. Never did find the remains of the impellor, I must check
the heat exchanger this winter!....
PS - as Captain of your ship you do have responsibility to feed your crew
Limes & Hard Tack; I've found this works wonders in preventing scurvy
and mutiny(usually), however, a good restaurant/shopping works slightly
better but is more expensive.
Posted
on 3/9/2003 at 09:18:00 AM by gh
I already have the bits from Rapid Electronics but the PBO method might
be better so I would appreciate it.Thanks.
218.
WHITE SILK
Posted on 3/9/2003 at 06:29:23 PM by Andy
Tufnail
Have been offered a 95 White silk for £16500. looks good inside and out
with extras. only 2 sails from 95. VHF radio and tender with 4hp outboard.
No survey certificate. Has been on west coast of Scotland and several
channel crossings, now on norfolk boards. Have nothing to compare price
with, is it a good deal. how many made and is it still possible to get
parts. Do they sail well. Any info appreciated as very interested. Andy
Tufnail
Posted on 15/9/2003 at 07:44:14 PM by Peter
Dawes
I have recently bought a 1995 White Silk and I would be pleased to tell
you all about the my experiences. Regrettably not over the e-maiil though.
I would be pleased to talk on the phone Regards Peter
Posted
on 5/9/2003 at 09:10:10 AM by laurie
see message on site; see also J27 pages on site. What keel does it have...........what
do you want to do with it? Get a survey! Price, a subjective thing at
best, is in the ballpark; but it is all condition/inventory determined;
so you must get a survey. If you have any queries, don't hesitate to email
me direct.......
219.
Catalina Direct
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 08:48:40 AM by Steve
O'Connell
A few months ago the MD of Catalina Direct posted a note saying that he
was coming to the UK and wanted to look at some club members boats to
see how they differed from the Catalinas, and with a view to offering
spares to the UK market. Anyone know how that visit went and what the
outcome was?
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 09:05:16 AM by Jeremy Knight
Yes - he came over to the south coast rally. His view was that while the
boats in the UK and US are very similar in terms of structure, there are
huge differences in the way they are fitted out and many of the parts
are different. I suspect his thinking was that the market in the UK is
not big enough to justify the investment in UK specific stocks and the
infrastructure to set up a proper deliver system in the UK.
However you can still get some parts at good prices I understand, even
with the postage. Some members swear by catalina direct and I will leave
it to them to comment on their service and so on (I have never used them)
-See the links section of this website for the catalina direct link.
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 11:16:37 AM by Steve
O'Connell
Thanks for a very comprehensive reply - I have used Catalina Direct on
a couple of occasions and always found them to be very helpful and offer
a good service.
Posted on 5/9/2003 at 09:03:28 AM by laurie
also see recommended suppliers directory........
220.
J28 ??
Posted on 4/9/2003 at 12:55:07 AM by Dick
Hicks
Just spotted a "Jaguar 28" for sale at the Hamble Marina - is
this the White Silk that I've heard people talk about? It looks quite
different to a J27...
Spotted it from the links at the top of this page - it's gone now - now
it's "Jaguar cars!
Posted on 5/9/2003 at 09:01:52 AM by laurie
No: I thought that this one has been to to death, however ther are 4 known
28s, one of which I last traced to Greek waters; howerver the 28 is closely
based on the 27, although I THINK? all 28s are fin keeled. The White Silk
28, built on the Broads is a further develpment with changes to the keel
design, making them more shoal draft cruisers, with a modded shoal/long
keel, or twins, again slightly shallower (I think??) than the Jaguars.
Most were sold with in mast reefing, & we have at least one member
who sails a White Silk...................
221.
J21 ROLLER GENOA
Posted on 7/9/2003 at 10:45:23 PM by James
Gould
I've recently bought a J21 and have had great fun sailing it despite it's
slightly neglected past! I intend to spend a lot of the time short/single
handed and feel it's time to bow to progress and fit a roller furling
genoa. I would be grateful for anyones experience on how best to fit one
as I think the tweekable mast might cause some sagging problems, also
is the standard forestay position suitable? Many thanks
Posted
on 8/9/2003 at 01:26:35 PM by Paul
Hi James, My view is that there is not much advantage to be had from roller
reefing on the J21. I don’t have one on mine, just hanked on headsails.
I can see the attraction in the ability to furl away the headsail simply
by pulling on a string – I had a sail on the Jaguar Yachts Ltd 215 demonstrator
recently which is fitted with roller reefing. But with hanked on sails
you do have a better setting sail and when you want to drop the sail there
is no mechanism to jam up, the hanks simply slide down the forestay (some
people rig up a line from the top hank so you can pull the jib down from
the cockpit).
Also i am not convinced that the ability to reduce sail area would be
useful for the Jaguar 21. With the Jaguar there is a 110% working jib
(the standard sail) and a 140% Genoa. I use the Genoa for racing up to
F4 and the jib for everything else. Because of the 21's sailplan configuration
there is no requirement to reef the jib as the wind gets up. I just hang
on to it and reef the main. In a F6 the boat is fine under double reefed
main and working jib, in fact I would say reducing the headsail area as
you might with roller reefing will only compromise performance and increase
weather helm.
Once its F7 the boat will sail OK with just the double reefed main, as
I discovered on that Sunday in June when we had the unforecast F7 gale…
although my preferred option is not to be out in a J21 in those conditions!
Posted on 8/9/2003 at 10:09:24 AM by Mike
Ashfield
I'm afraid I have only just bought my J21, but it does have a roller reefing
genoa. It is Plastimo and attached to the forestay position.
I have had some problems with it already. It has a disc at the top to
keep the halyard away from the roller gear. Unfortunately it seems to
jam the halyard tight against itself due to proximity of attach points
and the disc. This has caused the halyard to get wound round the roller
reefing gear and to twist the forestay inside enough to break one strand
- so a new forestay for me!
Posted on 8/9/2003 at 07:51:56 PM by dave
clark
I know the problem, was talking to the Burlesdon riggers at Deacons boat
yard some time ago and they were telling me not to forget to fit a "thingy"
to stop this problem happening. If you give them a bell they will save
you any further expenditure and sort the problem.
Posted
on 9/9/2003 at 11:02:20 AM by Dick
Hicks
The angle between the forestay and the rope from the top of the swivel
MUST be at least 15º, preferably more, or you will suffer from Halyard
Wrap. You must usually fit a deflector hoop to the mast so the halyard
goes through this before it enters the mast, thus creating the 15º plus
angle. It is usually 'pop' rivetted onto the mast. You should have no
problem after fitting this.
Posted on 9/9/2003 at 08:34:58 PM by Mike
Ashfield
Thanks all. I'll give this all some careful thought. I do have a loop
already so will look at the positioning of it. Sounds like there's a solution
in all this to my problems at least.
222.
J21 Asymetric Spinnaker
Posted on 7/9/2003 at 10:47:00 PM by James
Gould
Has anyone tried fitting an Asymetric/Bowsprit?? Just curious!
223.
j27 tall rig
Posted on 8/9/2003 at 09:49:19 PM by bernadette
thanks geoff, for all you info, stats, etc. we've been away and it takes
my computer ages and ages to load so , i'm v. late in replying. i've printed
off your figures and will measure our sails when we take them off this
winter.
i'm most grateful as my menfolk would not believe me. coming home across
the solent recently i persuaded david to put 2 reefs in our main. it was
a busy sunday and no one else appeared to have reefed. however we creamed
along beautifully at 7 knots with a not excessive amount of heel.
our son is all for flinging out as much sail as poss at all times but
i felt i had proved a point (of some sort!)
so all you chaps who have never reefed your sails, have you got the shorter
version or do you go along on two wheels and a door handle?
Posted
on 9/9/2003 at 01:15:42 PM by Dick
Hicks
Bernadette, I regularly reef, usually when the wind gauge hits 18/20 knots
consistently, and I sail faster without the lee rail awash. I regularly
sail in company with a Contessa 28, who always reckon they sail faster
with all sail set and the lee rail well awash - I always beat them when
the time comes to reef( and usually before then as well!)
Posted
on 9/9/2003 at 04:48:00 PM by Laurie
Although I've never sailed against Dicks friends C 28, I generally reef
about the same time as Dick would: all these folk who never reef, either
don't go out beyond a 3-4, or sail with the helm hard up like a hand brake!!
224.
Saildrive Prop
Posted on 10/9/2003 at 01:41:45 PM by Bill
McEachran
I have lost one of the blades off my 2 blade folding prop, from my Volvo
penta saildrive. Does anyway have blades or alternatively a fixed prop
for sale. The size of the prop is 14 x 8.
Posted
on 11/9/2003 at 09:51:47 AM by Dick
Hicks
Bill, have you tried the Volvo Penta User Group? its www.volpen.org.uk
Posted on 10/9/2003 at 02:47:17 PM by gh
Talk to local re-engine people. They usually have to reprop. and they
might have old props lying around.Which area are you in?Do you need left
or right hand and what size and taper shaft?
Posted
on 10/9/2003 at 01:59:14 PM by Steve Alexander
Sorry Bill, can't help with a replacement but would be interested to know
the circumstances surrounding its loss. Did you hit something or was it
metal fatigue or some other kind of failure?
Posted
on 10/9/2003 at 05:55:35 PM by Bill
Mceachran
I've tried the local engine people, but nothing suitable. I'm in the West
of Scotland on the Clyde.
The prop hub fits on a straight splined shaft and is retained by a nut
and split pin. As far as I know the blades are not "handed".
Each blade pivots on it's own straight shaft, this shaft being retained
by a screw. This screw worked loose and in turn this allowed the blade
shaft to move, resulting in the blade falling off.
It happened while I was moored at my pontoon. I had a diver search for
it but due to 18 inches of silt on the marina bed, he had no luck.
He did retrieve the blade shaft from the prop, as it had not completely
worked loose.
Posted on 11/9/2003 at 11:47:48 AM by Steve Alexander
Interesting that. I take my prop off every year when ashore, partly so
it can be cleaned but also to guard against theft. When its all bright
and shiny it could attract magpies if you know what I mean.
I always try to ensure I tighten the retaining screw sufficiently but
it sounds like a double check could be in order next time!
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 11:30:06 AM by Laurie
The screw has a nylock mechanism & should be replaced at least every
2nd removal, or every 3rd year.
Re the prop., although not local, they will dispatch usually in 24 hrs,
& have all the dimensions, contact French Marine in your suppliers
directory. If there's a problem, let me know.
225.
Captain Patrick Childress
Posted on 15/9/2003 at 08:55:38 PM by Hilary
This is the website of Captain Patrick Childress, who sailed a Catalina
27 around the world.
http://home.maine.rr.com/captainsforhire/CaptainPatrickChildress.html
Posted on 16/9/2003 at 01:02:27 PM by hilary
Congratulations on picking up a Catalina 27. They are fun, easy to handle
boats. My C-27 did well on the 3 year circumnavigation.,
To answer your question, I used to write articles for the sailing magazines,
but they were more "how to do it" type of things rather than
"there I was
crossing an ocean". May, 1988 issue of Cruising World published one
crossing an ocean article titled "The Big Step" about making
a nonstop, 53 day,
6,400 mile passage from Darwin, Australia to Durban, South Africa in my
Catalina. They might still have a copy they could send to you. Caribbean
Boating, a St. Thomas publication, ran a number of Juggernaut crossing
oceans type of articles between 1982 and 1984.
Writing is not an easy thing for me to do so I never put that many stories
together about the trip. It is only recently that I started working on
a
book about the trip, but who knows if it will ever get finished. John
Vigor just came out with a new book called "Twenty Small Sailboats
to Take You
Anywhere". He included the Catalina 27 and I gave him a lot of information
for that section.
About the voyage; Leaving Miami in Jan. 1979, I cruised through the Bahamas
and kept going to St. Thomas. From there it was an easy down
wind sail to the Panama Canal. Across the Pacific to Cairns, Australia.
Around the top end of Australia to South Africa. I always wanted to round
one great cape, then across the Atlantic to St. Thomas. There were a lot
of fun stops and a number of passages between 1,500 and 3,000 miles.
Juggernaut was a very basic boat. The boat had a VHF, RDF, plastic sextant
(which I do not recommend) cassette tape player, short wave
receiver and my depth sounder was the keel. Back packing across oceans
was an adventure, a lot of fun and work. If I were to do it again, it
would be
in a larger, more comfortable boat full of electronics and certainly another
person. I?m sure the people at Catalina would not recommend
crossing oceans in a Catalina 27. If sailed in the correct seasons, latitudes,
handled properly and not overloaded, the 27 can do a good job of
sailing long distances. This is getting to be a long email so I will send
a list of alterations separately. Of the alterations, %0
Posted
on 18/9/2003 at 11:25:55 AM by Laurie
-see this winters edition of SEACATS.......
226.
Tall Rigs, Short Rigs and all that Jazz
Posted on 16/9/2003 at 08:32:06 AM by Geoff
Morning all.... Remember that thread regarding rig options on the J27?
Well, I eventually got an answer this morning from Lowell @ Catalina Direct
and here it is:
quote
Regarding
the standard and tall rig question... It is common in the US for manufacturers
to offer two rig options as wind condition vary greatly.
For example, in San Francisco Bay, the wind is guaranteed to be 25 to
35 knots every summer afternoon. San Diego is "bob and bake"
with very little
wind and a need for all the sail area one can stack on the boat. That
same boat in San Francisco would almost never sail under full sails, but
instead
would constantly be single reefed at a minimum.
Thanks again,
Lowell Richardson
"Steamboat Willie"
unquote
Not the answer I expected but there it is. Cheers Geoff
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 12:04:44 AM by bernadette
thanks geoff, that's so cool, some more proof to my macho men at home
that i'm not entirely loopy. as far as sailing goes i'm a first rate gardener
but i am pretty observant. it all makes sense to me!
227.
J25 Dimensions
Posted on 17/9/2003 at 09:34:29 PM by Cliff
Ward
I am in the process of specifying the details of a trailer for Cloin Bishop's
J25 Sea Swan. One critical measurement I need is the maximum measurement
from the outside of one of the keels to the outside of the other. if anyone
can help me with plans or other information it would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 06:12:50 PM by James
Johnson
I recently measured a jaguar 25 bilge keel and the distance between the
outer fin edges was 1750mm, total length of each fin (fore and aft) along
its lower edge was 1400mm.
228.
cooling water
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 03:10:09 PM by gh
Have got so fed-up with water inlet getting blocked that I have built
a Heath-Robinson device to warn of a slowing down or stopping of the water
leaving the exhaust. It takes less than 2 seconds to sound the alarm.
It sounds intermittently in the case of a reduced flow, and continuously
for a total blockage.The cost of the bits is a fiver or less and for a
DIYer is simple to make and fit.The boat on the next mooring has a warning
device on his water inlet but when his water-trap box split he flooded
his boat.I'll keep you informed about it's reliability, but if anyone
is interested you can e-mail me.
Posted
on 22/9/2003 at 11:04:49 AM by Jeremy
Knight
Dick sent me an artical from PBO - is this the same sort of thing. Howabout
a drawing/description for seacats. It is a problem that everyone has,
and if you have a good solution I am sure many would love to learn from
you.
Posted
on 19/9/2003 at 11:22:17 AM by Laurie
Is this for shaft drive AND saildrive....?
Posted
on 19/9/2003 at 05:42:07 PM by gh
Don't know anything about saildrive, this gizmo works by monitoring the
exhaust water outflow at the transom.Tried it again today for an hour,
worked fine.
Posted
on 19/9/2003 at 06:32:12 PM by laurie
sounds like it should work on saildrive as well....................?
Posted
on 20/9/2003 at 10:07:31 AM by gh
As I said, it's a Heath Robinson contraption, but it works so far. During
the winter I might try a more elegant solution involving sonar. One thing
for sure, I am going to have some fast-acting warning when the water fails.
229.
J21 Lifting keel - access
Posted on 18/9/2003 at 08:33:26 PM by Bruce
Cowie
This winter I need to replace the rubber gasket the keel drops through
on the underside of the hull. Unfortunatly we pull the boat onto the trailer
and the rollers prevent me removing the bottom plate to get at the gasket.
I intend "jacking and supporting" the boat off the trailer onto
wooden supports to allow access. Anyone any experience doing this with
a J21? What should I look out for and where can I support it safely.
RegardsBruce
Posted
on 19/9/2003 at 11:21:02 AM by Laurie
There is an article, written by a member, concerning keels on j21s.
All archive material is on site & technical articles are available
foc to members. Give me a shout if you've any problems, membership details
are on the homepage.
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