76. HALON FIRE EXTINGUISHER SYSTEM
Posted on 3/2/2003 at 02:32:53 PM by Ken Jordan
I have a Halon fire suppression system mounted in the engine compartment of my Jaguar 25. It consists of a glass bulb mounted on the top of a standard extinguisher, which in the event of a fire would break due to the heat from the flames, and put out the fire (using the same principle as a building sprinkler system).
With the use of Halon being illegal after 31 December 2003, I would like to replace this system with something just as simple to install that would also be just as effective.
I would appreciate any comments from anyone who has come up against a simular problem, and any ideas of what I could use as a replacement.

Posted on 3/2/2003 at 03:55:43 PM by Dick Hicks
There are alternatives to Halon on the market but forget the names. You will have to contact someone who specialises in marine extinguishers - sorry don't have any names at the moment but will try and look some uo tonight.
I understand the alternatives are not quite as effective as Halon, but we have to live with that. Anyway, you're OK for this year, plan it for 2004.

Posted on 3/2/2003 at 04:09:40 PM by Dick Hicks
Ken - just found it - try www.marinefiresafety.co.uk - Tel 01737 642375, they do replacements for Halon, DON'T use a dry powder type as it messes up the engine...
Don't know what they are like, give them a call and see what they say, and post on theis board with the result - it'll be useful.

Posted on 4/2/2003 at 01:37:40 PM by Ken Jordan
Dick - Thanks for the info, the guys at Marine Fire Safety (MFS) were very helpful. Apparently they can supply a replacement extinguisher, that works on the same principle as the one I currently have installed, only charged with a alternative gas (HFC227EA or FM200). A 1kg extinguisher will cover an area of approx 1.5 cubic meters, and costs £110 plus carriage. The carriage charge being £15 due to nature of the contents. They also mentioned that they will be in attendance at all the forthcoming local boat jumbles, so I'm sure there will be a deal to be had, if its only a saving on the carriage.

Posted on 6/2/2003 at 01:26:39 PM by Dick Hicks
That sounds like a good price, I had the Compass catalogue delivered yesterday and they are £199 for 0.7 cu metres engine room.

77. J22 MOVING TRACKS INBOARD
Posted on 6/2/2003 at 09:06:03 PM by Christine
Has any one actually moved the tracks inboard on the J22 as recommended by North Sails? If so how did it help, was it easy to do? and which system would you recommend?

Posted on 7/2/2003 at 02:33:56 PM by Ian Buck
What do they suggest? Moving the tracks to the coach roof? Or just over a bit?

Posted on 8/2/2003 at 10:28:52 AM by Steve Edwards
There is loads of info further down the board under Genoa sheeting. I also have the pics from Bahrain & one of the sail makers has a web site on tuning for Catalina 22's which covers the same subject & more. I'll dig out the address when I have a minute, Northern sails seems to come to mind but I'll check. General opinion is 6" in from the outboard about 3ft lomg & finishing just ahead of the winches

Posted on 8/2/2003 at 06:57:37 PM by Christine
Look forward to seeing what you come up with Steve, thanks.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 12:20:45 AM by Steve Edwards
Christine, that web site, tuning guide, is www.northsailsod.com

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 09:36:04 AM by Jeremy Knight
A good site . Laurie - would it be worth putting in a a link on the site?

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 01:30:54 PM by Laurie
Absoulement....is that spelt rite?

Posted on 13/2/2003 at 06:17:11 PM by Steve Edwards
Yes, spelt right, strange people never think ahead. Years ago in Nigeria Coca Cola set up a project team. They called it the Tactical Impact Team. No one realised until they turned up on site with tea shirts with the first letters highlighted. Its still a joke 20 years on in the bottling industry.

Posted on 13/2/2003 at 09:47:34 PM by Laurie
Years ago...I wuz born & raised there......(Nigeria, that is!)
Is that why people have been calling me that, since?

Posted on 14/2/2003 at 02:40:34 PM by Jeremy Knight
I'm sure you must have misheard. Probably they were just confusing you and Sarah's second names and calling you Mr Tidd.

Posted on 14/2/2003 at 10:41:51 PM by Laurie
..& there was I, thinking that I was Sidney Poitier's stand in..... ("they call me Mr..........")

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 12:49:58 AM by Steve Edwards
Christine , I saved the info to my harddrive so haven't got the web address directly.
The company is North Sails One Design any of the search engines should find them.
I've asked Steve O'Connell (not Ferguson) to send on the keel video. I'm guessing your the same Christine. Also I've just found a short piece I downloaded at some time on mast gates by a Phil Agur. I think I must have done either a search for mast gates or it's a link from the Catalina web site as the heading is C22 mast gates.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 07:14:17 PM by Christine
Thanks Steve, you're a treasure.

Posted on 21/2/2003 at 00:50:23 AM by Chris Rumbold
I have emailed pics of my Genny tracks new position to Christine. I can forward them to anyone who is interested. It certainly make a great improvement when going to windward.

Posted on 25/2/2003 at 02:25:47 PM by Steve O'Connell
Chris, I would be very interested to see the pics - could you e-mail them to me please.

78. DO IT YOURSELF UPGRADES VIDEOS
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 06:58:42 PM by Christine
Has anyone got, or had experience of Catalina Direct do it yourself upgrade video's? Are they to be recommended?

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 12:22:18 AM by steve edwards
Get the CD's great fun but you'll spend a fortune shipping goodies from the states. I know!

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 08:31:24 PM by Christine
It was bad enough paying for the shipping for the handbook. But the handbook is good. All I have to do now is find ways of making there items over here.

Posted on 15/2/2003 at 07:06:04 PM by Christine
Video received, will digest and return. Thank you again, but tell me more about the CD. You have to join Catalina Sailing whatsit to get that don't you?

Posted on 17/2/2003 at 10:11:47 PM by Steve Edwards
Don't think so, if you talk to me really nicely I could send you the ones I've got.
But don't tell anyone else, This is a secure site insn't it?

Posted on 20/2/2003 at 08:29:10 PM by Christine
Steve, hello dear, how are you? Have you had a good day? How was work? You look nice today, new hair cut? (God I hope you've got hair). Is this nice enough? Pretty please can I borrow?

Posted on 21/2/2003 at 01:18:14 PM by Steve Edwards
Good class of grovel, shame you're married. Hair is close to a comb-over & the rest of me is pretty worn out as well. Will sort the CD's over the weekend and send on Monday

79. MAST UP SYSTEM
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 06:59:48 PM by Christine
Has anyone got or tried the Mast up system by Catalina Direct? Is it to be recommended, or could I make one cheaper myself? (that is get a little man to make it!)

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 03:48:49 PM by Anonymous
There's been oodles on this (see archive)
Unless you're going to unstep every year, the mast on the 22 can be put up with 2 people easily, with or without a cantilever. (Could use the boom or a piece of suitable wood)

80. WAXING MAST
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 07:00:50 PM by Christine
In the Jaguar 22 handbook it recommends waxing the mast and boom, which wax would I use? Does anyone else do this? Is it worth it?

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 09:34:56 AM by jeremy Knight
Assuming yours is an aluminium (I always struggle with the spelling of that one!) mast/boom then you can wax them which provides some protection from the elements. However, I wouldn't bother. Most masts naturally develop a layer of oxidisation which provides just as goo protection. This is the dull, sometimes "whitish" covering you see on the spars. Some would call it unsightly, but I am sure that those on the anitiques roadshow would refer to it as an authentic patena!
I would save your effort for all the other jobs you seem to be tackling.

Posted on 8/2/2003 at 07:51:27 PM by Colin Bishop
I've never done anything to my mast in 6 years and it looks just the same as it always did. (despite being knocked down by an aircraft carrier in our first season).
Anyway, isn't waxing supposed to be painful - count me out!

Posted on 8/2/2003 at 08:14:38 PM by Christine
I should imagine it's not as painfull as being knocked over by an aircraft carrier! Where were you!

Posted on 8/2/2003 at 08:54:54 PM by colin bishop
In the main approach channel to Portsmouth, becalmed and with wife and two kids aboard and HMS Illustrious bearing down upon us. We passed underneath most of the flight deck, it was the anti aircraft gun sponson at the stern that just caught the top of the mast and brought it down (undamaged except for the masthead equipment)around my ears.
Oh the joys of sailing! Of course we were becalmed because we hit the fort but that's another story. Tough boats these J25s.

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 12:19:30 AM by steve edwards
Re waxing, if you have a luff rope or even slides. Spray caravan awning rail lubricant on to a rag and use a halyard to run it up the mast slot. Don't forget to attach a downhaul. Sails go up & down easier than a whxxxx drxxxxx.

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 03:45:35 PM by Laurie
Steve is right about lubricating the luff groove. However whilst everyone is ricocheting between forts & aircraft carriers (how is the Navy ever going to GET to Iraq?), when you can (when the mast is down) check the sheaves & fittings & wipe over the spars with WD 40 or similar.

Posted on 16/2/2003 at 01:21:42 PM by Phil Tomaszewski
I sprayed DW40 into the mast it's worked well so far.

Posted on 17/2/2003 at 06:53:29 PM by Christine
Though WD (apart from being the cure to all ills) was a degreaser, so wouldn't you have to lubricate afterwards?

Posted on 17/2/2003 at 10:04:33 PM by Steve Edwards
WD40 is also a waterproofing agent. Great for spraying on land rover electrics if you've been playing in water too deep for landrovers not deep enough for jaguars. So good for general wiping over of things you don't want to corrode but as you say for moving parts or some thing you want long term slippery apply a lubricant. The point about awning rail lub is it will not effect sails either from rotting or from staining. It's designed to be in contact with a variety of caravan awning materials including synthetics.

81. CATALINA DIRECT OFFSHORE SAILS
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 07:06:17 PM by Christine
In the Catalina Direct owners handbook they have offshore sails, and I quote "Luff slides stack at your sail track stop when the sails is doused. When you're ready to hoist sail, just haul on the halyard. Up it goes without feeding in the bolt rope."
Whats a bolt rope, I assume doused is down, but would you be able to get a sail cover on in the position?
"We even install a jack line. You can reef single-handed from the safety of the cockpit"
So is there a big gap for the first slide? How do they manage this? Does anyone have experience of their sails?

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 09:42:41 AM by jeremy
Firstly you are right about "dousing" being an Americanism for dropping the sail. A bolt rope is a rope (unsurprisingly!) that runs up the luff/front edge of the sail. You feed it into a groove in the mast when you hoist the sail. Sliders a little plastic "T" pieces sewed into the luff that you feed into the groove instead of the bolt rope.
Sliders are more common on moast boats, as a bolt rope is unwealdy to handle. Not sure about 22's but I would put a pound against your GPS that you have got sliders. If so stick with them they are less troublesome. If you have a bolt rope, then you would need to get a new sail cover cut as the luff of the sail stays in the mast track when you drop it, and stacks on the boom. Thus your cover needs to be cut generously at the front.
If you want to have a look at one with sliders, just have a look round your boat yard. You will see lots with bulky fronts to their sail covers. These are the ones with sliders.

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 03:41:03 PM by Laurie
Jeremy is spot on, save my 22 had a bolt rope...........

82. CURTAIN TRACK SORTED
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 07:08:34 PM by Christine
I've decided on Furniglide by Swish. It's plastic, small c section with screws inserted through the back of the section. And cheap. Thanks for help and advice. Now where do I get the concentina curtains from?

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 03:39:21 PM by Laurie Milton
Thats what I put on my 27. Curtains homemade (Sarah is very good at that)but can be professonally made up or, if you supply material, I could ask Sarah...?

Posted on 15/2/2003 at 07:04:08 PM by Christine
Thank you for the kind offer Laurie, I was going to attempt to bodge myself, but time is very limited, can you e-mail me direct if Sarah is able and willing? Let me know costs etc.

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 12:59:22 AM by Steve Edwards
Careful Laurie you could end up with a new business!!

83. HEATING
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 07:12:35 PM by Christine
After everyone's advice, I've gone for a fan heater to run off mains when in a marina, and a portable gas heater run by gas aeorosal cans same as my one ring burner. Due to the condensation from combustion of a fossel fuel I am also installing a solar powered vent.

Posted on 10/2/2003 at 03:55:47 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Be carefull of those little gas heaters! We found it so hot that and the flame stood out side of the cramic eliment, we never used it again,

Posted on 10/2/2003 at 08:03:54 PM by Christine
Hi Gordon, Thanks for the advice. Do you want to sell your heater? I don't mind the fact it would be a little dangerous as it's mainly for the boom tented area when the kids are asleep. (We'll be locked out in the cockpit so not to disturbed them.)

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 06:23:55 PM by Gordon Bellenie
We took the heater back to the caravan shop and we use a Gas hurican lamp which gives out light and realy good heat,we bough it from an ex army store. As an ex fireman I thought this was a better deal.! G

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 07:13:57 PM by Colin Bishop
I was wondering about using gas lamps but surely they give off condensation too - or can you compromise by balancing the ventilation with the heat output? Has your lamp got a brand name?

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 07:13:05 PM by Christine
Now that's interesting, because I was wondering if I would get enough heat out of a hurican lamp! So does it warm up the cabin nicely, or just take the chill off?

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 09:59:29 PM by Laurie
Origo do a boat meths heater.....£70 approx

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 10:42:44 PM by Colin Bishop
I've got an Origo cooker which works well but it does pong a bit and you need to leave the hatch open so I don't know how well the heater would work. The Origo heater is also quite big, not sure where you'd put it in a small cabin. Maybe a couple of glasses of whisky is the best bet - I know it works for me! Possibly not appropriate for Christine's kids but it'd probably put them to sleep pretty quick!!

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 01:26:27 PM by Laurie
I had an Origo cooker on my 22 & was mightily impressed, so much so that I'm thinking of taking the gas OUT of my 27 & replacing with an Origo or similar.....

Posted on 13/2/2003 at 09:13:28 PM by Christine
We took gas out of our 22 and replaced it with a portable gas stove, best thing sinced slice bread. And I can use it when camping!

Posted on 15/2/2003 at 02:48:44 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Have just been down to the boat,and have taken down the particulars of the
gas tilly lamp.
Name-SERA VEGA.
( COD.527 PIEZo)
PLEIN AIR INTERNATIONAL.

Posted on 21/2/2003 at 10:45:59 AM by bernadette
we've never bothered to re-connect our eberspacher. a good hot water bottle works well for me at the beginning and end of the season. also boiling the kettle takes the edge off in our j27! good duvets are a must and much cheaper than fancy heaters. i do worry about various spirit heaters, cookers, etc because of the possibility of leaking and spilling and the extremely low flash point. the important thing about gas is to make sure it is correctly installed and maintained. horses for courses.

Posted on 21/2/2003 at 08:39:26 PM by Colin Bishop
Bernadette, I think you are quite right. In boats of this size there is no cheap and effective solution to heating them except when using a fan heater on a marina berth. Insulation is the best bet but the worst bit is crawling out from underneath in the morning. If you have a bigger boat then there is space to install "proper" heating and, of course if you can afford a bigger boat then the £1,000+ cost is less likely to put you off. That's life!

Posted on 28/2/2003 at 09:22:28 AM by Grahame lloyd
I have a Plastimo catalytic heater. No flame, no fumes, no condensation. Approx 12 X 8 X 4 in. Output about 800w and the calor gas lasts for ages!

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 07:48:41 PM by Christine
At about £100 arn't they? If we keep the boat for any length of time, I think that will be our option. But where to mount it?
Only polite answers please.

84. J22 RUDDER
Posted on 8/2/2003 at 11:58:20 PM by Mike Greener
I have recently purchased a J22 and have a drying mooring. Although the rudder swings I can see no evidence of old fixtures for lifting the blade by rope. I would be grateful for anyone else who has a drying mooring to let me know what they do with their rudder when not sailing.

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 03:36:28 PM by Laurie Milton
Such fittings are not always there as standard, most people adapt a system that suits. Details of this will be on the archive pages, or email me & I'll go through it.
When I had my 22, I used to lift off the rudder entirely & leave it on the cockpit floor when I left the boat.

Posted on 9/2/2003 at 08:28:23 PM by Christine
Ours lifts by a rope thread through a hole in the bottom of the rudder. A bolt has to be loosened (by an very old rusty spanner taped to a long bit of wood) to move the rudder up or down. If rudder needs to go down, it is pushed down by said spanner, then nut tightened. A cubersome method perhaps, but it works and it is lighter than lifting the whole thing off. If you want a photo let me know.

Posted on 10/2/2003 at 10:12:35 AM by Steve O'Connell
I always lift it off and leave it inside the cabin for the simple reason that if the bottom of it touched the mud at all there is a possibility of it 'jumping' off of the pintles and disappearing over the side.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 08:41:09 PM by Mike Greener
Many thanks for your comments, I think I will follow your example and take the rudder off completely when not in use.

85. MASTHEAD LIGHTS / REWIRING
Posted on 9/2/2003 at 07:45:59 PM by Colin Bishop
Having spent a chilly day at Chichester yesterday doing various jobs while the boat is out of the water (including spraying WD40 on the masthead sheaves Laurie)I was wondering if I ought to consider replacing the navigation light wiring while the mast is down. The lights still worked last time I tried but the dreaded black rot has got a hold at the deck end of the wiring and there is only a limited amout of slack left to use. Trouble is, I believe you need to use tinned copper stranded wire. I managed to get something 18 months ago when the mast was last down but the cable diameter for three core was too big to fit through the existing holes in the mast. Does anyone know what size should be used and where I can obtain it?
Incidentally, when black rot claimed the supply to one of the inside reading lamps I discovered that you can't run replacement wiring as the inner moulding appears to be clamped to the underside of the deck and there are no conduits. I managed to get over the problem by connecting to the other end of the lamp wiring run but I suspect that any further replacement will entail surface mounting the wiring on the deckhead. Anyone got any helpful ideas?

Posted on 10/2/2003 at 11:44:24 AM by Dick Hicks
Colin, you must use tinned copper stranded wire, I suggest 1½mm² cross section area should be OK. Often all you can get is the American equivalent - but I don't know the equivalent offhand. If you use smaller, you will get a voltage loss over the length from the switch, to the lamp and back again.
If you have got 3 core as you say, just make the hole larger in the mast - shouldn't affect the mast strength as long as it is near the ends. You can get tinned wire from www.indexmarine.co.uk or RS Components or even your local friendly chandlery!
I believe RS have both 3 core and single cable in various colours.
Regarding internal wiring, I have the same problem, I believe the wiring was clamped between the inner moulding when manufactured and is therefore effectively glued in place! Not sure of the answer, can an electricians flexible probe thingy be used?(sorry don't know the correct name but its used for pulling cables through conduit).
Incidently, when you fit replacement mast cable, fit small cable ties every few inches set at 120º apart around the cable with the ends sticking out - the ends sit against the mast internally and prevent the cable slapping inside.

Posted on 10/2/2003 at 08:26:09 PM by Colin Bishop
Thanks Dick for the very helpful advice - just what I was looking for. You are quite correct in saying that the internal wiring was clamped between the mouldings. I have seen some fairly low profile surface conduit in B&Q or Homebase (can't remember which)which offers the possibility of a reasonably neat job when rewiring which won't intrude too much on headroom. I suppose this is just a minor example of what happens on may production boats today when, for example, the engine is fitted before the interior mouldings are glassed in place. It saves the builder money but the boat has to be pulled apart later on when it comes to fitting a replacement engine.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 01:28:27 PM by Simon Doggett
I believe that the "electricians flexible probe thingy" is called "Wiremans tape". Basically a length of thin spring steel -very useful.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 07:10:56 PM by Colin Bishop
Thanks Simon but I fear it is not likely to do the trick in this case. As Dick says, the inner and outer mouldings appear to have been clamped together trapping the wiring between them. There was no "give" on the exposed ends when I tried pulling them. I suspect that there are no continuous voids between the two.

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 09:08:05 AM by Steve Alexander
I'm also in the middle of rewiring on my J25 and have found a local supplier in Portsmouth of marine electrical equipment - Furneaux Riddall & Co. Their prices seem very good but I have yet to check the quality of the materials. If OK I'll circulate their details.

Re tinned wire, Index Marine prices are around £1.80 per metre as against about 30p per metre for standard spec. I know tinned is better but its a big price difference when I reckon I'll need about 100 metres overall. The original wire has lasted 20 years so I suppose you pays your money and makes your choice.
Colin - if you want to meet up one weekend to compare notes on rewiring problems please e-mail me.

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 01:24:01 PM by Dick Hicks
Re Tinned wire prices - try RS Components - www.rswww.com
They have 3 core & 4 core, both 0.75mm² and 1.5mm² - sample price for 3 core x 1.5mm² = £78.55 for 100m + VAT.
1.0mm² Tinned Copper Stranded 32/0.2mm covered with 0.6mm PVC, various colours at £9.16 per 100m + VAT They also do the above in 0.75mm² & 0.5mm² at less cost. Called "Equipment Wire to BS4808 Part 2"
Index marine can be expensive - I think their wire is brought from the USA.
Why not get together with someone else and share the cost.
The only problem with RS is they normally only supply to companies, so if you can order thro' the firm you work for, they will deal with you. Pay by credit card but there may be a delvery charge on top. - Or perhaps you could 'invent' a company and deliver to your house - but will need signing for.
Incidently RS prices are relatively high so you could try asking at your local Electrical Distributor and see if they can get a comparable price. Good Luck.

Posted on 25/2/2003 at 02:41:59 PM by Steve O'Connell
try Durite on 01255 555200 - they supply all sorts of electrical equipment

86. J22 INFO
Posted on 10/2/2003 at 10:55:55 PM by Tony Maxwell
Further to previous postings,my 22 has the number'4' stamped on port cockpit locker rim, can anyone interpret this into a year of manufacture. Also I need sizes for either spinnaker or cruising chute.

Posted on 11/2/2003 at 09:56:36 PM by Laurie
re sails, contact Kemps; you have the leaflet &/or suppliers list? They have the dimensions.

87. J22 RUDDER
Posted on 12/2/2003 at 08:30:55 AM by Ian Buck
My rudder, which is a substantial wooden beast, drops on like everyone elses, should there be some sort of sprung retaining clip below the top locator to prevent the rudder from "jumping" out of its mountings in heavy seas?

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 01:23:02 PM by Laurie
Split pin.....retained on a lanyard, some use R pins, & others link pins. I used the former..........

88. HELP!!! THROUGH HULL FITTING COCK UP
Posted on 12/2/2003 at 09:33:42 AM by Jeremy Knight
I replaced two gate valves this winter. I was strongly advised not to over tighten the new ball valves, as this could turn the through hull fitting, and thus break the seal. When tackling the Engine raw water intake, given the advise I had received I was very careful not to over tighten the valve. Sitting back to admire my work, I was very pleased, but decided to give the valve one more tweak with the spanner just to make sure it was done up. And yes, you guessed it, I over tightened it and the through hull fitting started turning round.
So now I guess I have a leaky through hull. Clearly I have to take it out and re-seat it properly. I am not sure of the best way of doing it though. Clearly I tighten the nut that actually holds the through hull as much as possible. But should I use some sort of sealant? Is it best to sikaflex around the hole in the hull on the outside or inside? Should I try and feed sikaflex in around the thread of the through hull? Or should I use nothing at all? Advice very much needed!!

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 01:21:08 PM by Laurie
Yes, use Sikaflex, certainly outside, & a little in side wouldn't be a bad idea.
Trim off when cured.........

Posted on 12/2/2003 at 12:32:04 AM by Simon Doggett
Don't panic! Exactly the same thing happened to me, although I found that the skin fitting turned as I was loosening the old gate valve. I don't have a nut on the inside and I assume that one must be glassed in. Doesn't matter though. I just undid the fitting until there was about a quarter inch gap between the flange and the hull and then squirted a good dollop of sealant in there. Tighten up till it squeezes out, stand back and admire. The seal is made between the flange (which is quite wide) and the hull, not really on the thread, although some sealant will find its way up there.
I did two fittings this way and they haven't leaked all season.

89. J24 ADVICE ON BUYING
Posted on 17/2/2003 at 02:09:25 PM by Allan Dewar
I am considering buying a J24 circa 1997. Does anyone know of any vices with this model? Would also appreciate any comments on performance

Posted on 17/2/2003 at 03:45:22 PM by Dick Hicks
My friend had a J24 untl 2 years ago - on the whole it was a good boat, but spoiled by a bad set of sails. It sailed OK but found it paid to reef early. The outboard installation was not very good, it was very noisy if on for a long time - but this is in common with many such outboard powered boats. The original engine was a Yamaha 8HP and as it was so noisy, and not very good(It only had a standard prop, not a 'saildrive' prop), he fitted a Honda 5HP which drove it as fast - but had to alter the well to make it fit.
Whereabouts are you? Is it the J24 which has been advertised in the Ipswich area? - if so it's overpriced(IMHO)...
It was generally faster than my fin keel Halcyon 23, except to windward in anything over a F4/5 when we were comparable. We had been out in a F6 gusting 7 and apart from rounding up to windward in the gusts was fine - If we had had a third reef in the mainsail and a storm jib, I'm sure it would have been better balanced. Keep us informed of progress.

Posted on 19/2/2003 at 11:22:30 PM by Richard Green
I have a 24. Where is your prospective boat?
Dick Hicks comments are true, I have grown used to my engine, the Yamaha 8 , it has a cover moulding which I can reverse fit if engine is on for a long time , this covers it in more and a bit quiter. But after all its a sailing boat not a motor boat. My engine will swivel a bit,helps reversing but my marina neighbors same boat and engine is a very tight fit and wont swivel.
I have a copy of old magazine report if any use
What is value of boat, mine is around 1992 tear

Posted on 20/2/2003 at 09:32:37 PM by Allan Dewar
Thanks for the info. It was the boat in Ipswich. I went down to see it but was a bit of a waste of time as it was not in the condition I was led to believe. Anyway, I am still looking so if anyone knows of a 24 for sale, preferably in Scotland, I would appreciate a note.
Thanks

Posted on 21/2/2003 at 08:23:42 AM by Dick Hicks
Alan, Clarke & Carter have one at Burnham on Crouch for £13500 - apparently a Mk II version - not sure of the spec - Tel No 01621 785600. Sorry about your abortive trip to see the J24 in Ipswich - we had a look at it out of interest as my friend had just sold his J24 and decided it was way over-priced - to give you some idea, he sold his J24 eventually for about £9500?, with a trailer!(called 'Sarah Claire')` and I believe it did go West Mersea, so could it be the same? interesting if it is...
Goood luck anyway in your search.

90. SAIL NUMBERS
Posted on 19/2/2003 at 04:22:42 PM by g.harris
can any one advise on type/name of glue to refix sail numbers ?

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 10:18:20 AM by Ralph Wilson
a really stupid supplementary question - why has my J25 got the sail no 1299 ? If it was a uk RYA sail number wouldn't it have a K in front of it ? Surely that number of J25s weren't built.

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 07:33:07 PM by Laurie
-Just under a 1000 were built......

Posted on 20/2/2003 at 10:01:04 AM by Jeremy Knight
Ones I have used before have been self adhesive which of course makes life easier.

Posted on 19/2/2003 at 04:33:30 PM by Laurie
Have you tried phoning Kemps or any of the other sailmakers listed in the directory?

91. J27 ANODES
Posted on 23/2/2003 at 08:31:55 PM by Hilary Reed
We are buying a 1979 Jaguar 27. We see no evidence of anodes being fitted. 1) What is the likely consequence of this? 2) What, if any anodes would owners recommend we now fit. Research/info on this seems hard to find. Help!

Posted on 23/2/2003 at 09:11:43 PM by Dick Hicks
Hilary, the usual place is a shaft anode on the prop shaft, just behind the 'P' bracket. Definately you should fit one to protect the prop - assuming you have a traditional shaft drive. They are usually ball shaped or a slightly elongated anode - cost from £8 to £15 depending whether you buy MG Duff(£15) or the cheaper one at £8 - no difference in performance.
If you don't fit anodes you will get corrosion of yourprop/propshaft - the anode corrodes instaed of your expensive prop or shaft. Dick Hicks

Posted on 23/2/2003 at 10:55:15 PM by Laurie
An article on this has just gone out with our latest newsletter. If you email me direct, I'll send you a copy. Basically, any metal fitting/contact with the seawater, such as engine saildrive legs, drive shafts, some skin fittings will need some sort of sacrificial anode. The detail of which is better explained as per the article, rather than me going into it here.
If your engine is a saildrive, the anode may not been evident, for it is faired in to the saildrive leg, immediately forward of the prop. Email address is on the homepage.

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 12:13:33 AM by Hilary
Thanks everyone for your rapid responses! Brilliant. We look forward to joining such a helpful bunch! There will no doubt be further silly questions!

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 09:37:28 AM by Simon Doggett
P-bracket? I haven't got one of those. Is that a feature of bilge keelers? On my fin keel the propshaft exits an extended bit of the hull/fin (the "deadwood"?) just far enough to get the prop on. There is virtually no exposed prop shaft. Hence, I've got a special prop nut which has an anode attached to the end. I also fitted a normal pear drop anode to the hull. However, I haven't got round to bonding the propshaft to it yet. I should, because the prop nut anode is well "eaten" after one season.
By the way, my friendly marine engineer told me that it is not unusual to find boats of our vintage (late 70's) with no anodes. Which probably accounts for the de-zincification of my prop, requiring its replacement. As well as fitting an anode, I'd take a close look at the prop for signs of damage.

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 10:30:32 AM by Dick Hicks
Simon, you obviously have the later J27 which has the central extension and not a "P" bracket. Carry on using the anode on the prop nut. Sorry to hear about dezinctifying - I also had a hull mounted anode which was not doing anything so I removed it. As long as you have Bronze skin fittings you should be OK. My prop also shows slight signs of dezinctification bit it still "rings" true so am not worried. Incidently most props are made from Manganese Bronze which suffers from Dezinctification - you pay a lot more for a prop which is dezintification free.
My shaft anode last year only waisted away on one half and no-one could explain why - any one has any ideas? - all I could think of was that only the waisted half could "see" the prop, so I will make sure each half can "see" the prop blades(2 bladed prop) this season.

Posted on 24/2/2003 at 01:26:11 PM by Simon Doggett
Dick, is 1977 later? Guess it must be. I'll fit a new prop nut anode (although I bet they're disproportionately expensive) but I was rather hoping that bonding the hull anode to the propshaft (via a carbon brush or such like) would be a more elegant arrangement.

Posted on 25/2/2003 at 07:51:52 AM by Dick Hicks
Simon, My J27 is 1974 and I believe they started in about 1971 - I believe they changed to your style of prop arrangement in about 1974/5.
Bonding the hull anode to the propshaft with a carbon brush is probably as good - but make sure the anode can "see" the prop otherwise it won't work effectively.
For Anodes try www.zincsmart.com - much cheaper than MG Duff - they can probably do a prop nut anode at much less than Duff. Another alternative is a narrow shaft anode between the prop and the "deadwood" - as long as you have enough rooom(about ¾" from memory).
Keep us informed of what you decide on.

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 03:20:57 PM by Simon Doggett
Dick, Thanks. If I ever get around to lifting her out(!) I'll let you know what I decide.
My current excuse for delaying a lift out (highly necessary to change the stern gland stuffing, antifoul, change anodes, check the soggy rudder and bearings) is that Premier, which has just taken over Southsea Marina, offers six weeks free ashore each year. I'm too mean to pay for storage before the new contract starts!

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 02:22:54 PM by Hilary Reed
Simon, does this mean you will be, like us in Southsea Marina from April? Our newly acquired J 27 is in Deacons yard in Hamble now, eyeing up soggy rudder, delinquent water tank, new anode/s,antifoul. Will be afloat asap and will look out for you in Southsea M. We are in Salve Nauta.

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 01:28:35 PM by Simon Doggett
Hilary, strong feeling of deja vue coming on here. We bought our boat at Deacons! We certainly will be at Southsea from April (our second year). Excellent marina and reasonable value for money. We're on F21 in Serendipity - give us a shout when you arrive.
Incidentally, if you need any work doing on the engine , the engineers at Deacons (forget the name, but next to the boat shed) are very good.

Posted on 5/3/2003 at 11:52:12 PM by bernadette
we bought our jag 27, BERENICE, from southsea marina a few years ago. we are now at tipner lake, portsmouth harbour cruising club. we' ll look out for you both when we are back in the water!

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 02:51:13 PM by Hilary Reed
Hoorah! We will look out for you. Thanks for your advice re the engineer. We are also looking for a good rigger to replace standing rigging. Any suggestions? ttfn.

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 03:58:43 PM by Simon Doggett
Hilary, there is (or used to be before Premier took over Southsea) a rigger on site. Suggest you give them a call and ask if Jeremy is still there. There also is, or used to be, a very good marine engineer - Scott. I understand that he was going to set up his own business operating on the marina site. I'm sure the office would give you details.
As far as the standing rigging goes, the chandlers in Southsea - Chris Hornsey - makes up rigging, i.e. he's got the press to put fittings on wire. So, one option would be, once the boat's at Southsea, to drop the mast take off the rigging and ask Chris to copy it. Should be pretty straightforward and may be worth asking for a quote.

92. STEAM CLEANERS
Posted on 26/2/2003 at 10:19:20 AM by Steve Alexander
It has been suggested to me that a small hand held steam cleaner called a Vaporettino, available for around £50, would be a good way of cleaning the deeply engrained dirt on non-varnished teak fittings topsides. Having checked on the internet it seems they would be useful for all sorts of other boat cleaning jobs - galley, upholstery, engine degreasing etc. On the face of it they sound like a low elbow grease option for some of those really horrible jobs. Does anyone have any experience or views on using one of these?

Posted on 26/2/2003 at 09:56:31 PM by Laurie
I take it that this is not a steam pressure washer, as one of those would be into 4 figures!!

Posted on 28/2/2003 at 10:59:12 AM by Steve Alexander
No, this is a hand held unit with, I imagine, relatively low pressure. It looks like one of those 12v vacuum cleaners, holds around 0.3 litres of water which provides steam for about twenty minutes before refilling. It comes with a variety of attachments so you can use it on different surfaces

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 03:24:13 PM by Simon Doggett
Sounds fantastic. Buy one and let us know how you get on. Better still, tell the manufacturers that you're doing a long term test for a reputable yachting association - they'll probably give you one!

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 12:55:26 AM by Steve Alexander
I was at the rally at Cowes last year and reputable is not a word that readily springs to mind.....

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 10:16:20 PM by Laurie
...better still, tell them I will!!!!

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 07:06:43 PM by Colin Bishop
Is it any good for wallpaper stripping?!

93. J27 SOGGY RUDDER
Posted on 26/2/2003 at 11:52:10 AM by hilary
Daft Q 2: Survey report of our "new" 1979 Jag 27 sez "semi-balanced spade rudder ... checked and found to have a moisture content of 15 (out 0f 25). This clearly indicates that moisture has entered the foam core of the rudder. However this is quite usual for rudders of this type, as it proves impossible to prevent moisture from enetring the innner core in way of the stainless steel rudder stop. The lower bearing .... appears to be in good order. Recommended: 2 coats of anti-fouling as per hull bottom ( with its moisture readings of 2-4) Monitor rudder on a regular basis." Is there a way of sealing the rudder? Any experience/advice? The boat has been out of water for some weeks now. TTFN. Hilary

Posted on 26/2/2003 at 01:00:24 PM by Dick Hicks
Hilary, I think you'll find all rudders of this sort have this problem - mine certainly "weeps" from a couple of places - although my recent Insurance survey didn't notice it... I will just monitor it as yours has suggested. I also during the winter lash the tiller and then heave on the rudder itself to see if there is any untoward movement - seems solid as a rock so far.
One does read of horror stories of the internal welded on tangs breaking off...
I'm sure there was a similar message about this in the archived message board - check it and see.

Posted on 26/2/2003 at 09:54:55 PM by Laurie
What Dick & your survey says is spot on. However, DO NOT seal with epoxy or whatever, unless rudder is dried right out.... Mine was the same, except being transom hung, skeg supported; my tangs are external, & are therefore not subject to the worries to which Dick refers.

Posted on 27/2/2003 at 09:45:47 AM by Hilary Reed
Thats brilliant. Vey reassuring. Thanks both.

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 03:15:09 PM by Simon Doggett
I've fretted about this in the past (see earlier postings) as mine is definitely soggy, but as my experience with the boat grew, I realised that there is an endless list of things to fret about. As the rudder is out of sight, I tend to put it fairly low on the list.
In short, I agree with me learned colleagues - keep an eye on it, but don't panic.

94. CATHODIC PROTECTION
Posted on 26/2/2003 at 11:59:41 AM by Steve O'Connell
For any interested owners there is an 'experts' view on what is required in the March edition of Sailing Today - See letters page.

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 07:43:01 PM by Christine
Saw that, and wondering if I should now have cathodic protection. (Sounds like something the church should know about).

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 01:31:11 PM by Steve O'Connell
there are zinc anodes for the keel, my otboard has it's own and I'll put small ones on my keels - they're steel not f/glass.

95. J27 WATER TANK
Posted on 27/2/2003 at 09:50:07 PM by Dave Clark
The horrible brown thing in the port locker turns out to be a "fresh" water tank....no way ! where can I get a stainless steel one from?. It looks like a standard measured one. Many thanks. DC.

Posted on 28/2/2003 at 08:33:31 AM by Dick Hicks
Why a stainless one? - there are polyethelene ones on the market - translucent, so you can see how much water you have left. Interesting that yours is in the port (cockpit?) locker - mine is a galvanised 10 gall. tank under the saloon port bunk. Mine must have been put in before the interior moulding was put in as it was impossible to remove last year when I had a leak - had to cut out the bunk top and refasten, turned out not to have a leak after all, considered fitting larger tank but would have to have been custom made and funds were running out, so replaced original tank after glassing up suspect looking seams.
For Polyethelene tanks look at Plastimo, Vetus or www.tek-tanks.co.uk - also www.nuovarade.com - an Italian company who was represented by Sowester I think, who went bust, so don't know who their UK agent is - try E-mailing them.
Anyway - goood luck! - keep us informed of your eventual choice.

Posted on 28/2/2003 at 07:41:27 PM by Dave Clark
Hello Dick,
Many thanks for the reply, my water tank is under the saloon port bunk my mind must have been on something else. I just thought "rust yuk, stainless" did'nt give poly a thought, I am doing right now, thanks Dick that has saved me a bob or two, a pint when we meet.

Posted on 28/2/2003 at 08:26:23 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Paint the plastic water tank on the outside with a dark paint , to stop the water
getting-Yuggy!!

Posted on 1/3/2003 at 05:42:02 PM by Dick Hicks
Gordon, why paint the tank? - where it is situated under the bunk, it will rarely see daylight - I assume you are worried about 'algae' growing under the action of sunlight - should not be a problem. I've fitted an in-line filter and never had a problem - water always tastes fine.

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 11:46:56 AM by Gordon Bellenie
I to have a filter, but I am a nuts and bolt man! As my water tank is up in the
bow, I was worried about the translucent light coming through the forward part of
the hull and as my boat is clocking on a bit I also changed all the piping to the
dark kit!!

Posted on 1/3/2003 at 10:54:40 AM by Dave Clark
Thanks every body, well on the way now.

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 09:21:01 AM by Jeremy Knight
I know it sounds a little like "mine is bigger than yours" but I have 2 tanks - one in the bow and one in the port saloon locker. Is this a normal arrangement or am I just lucky.
THe bow one is a poly, and I find that with an inline filter there is no problem with the water. The port tank is steel.

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 01:25:37 PM by Dick Hicks
I think the normal arrangement is the galvanised steel tank under the port seat - having an extra tank right up in the bows is not normally a good idea - all that weight in the bows will not help to make a balanced boat - certainly in heavy weather

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 04:21:22 PM by Jeremy Knight

Maybe it will counter balance the massive weight bias introduced by all the additional balast I place at the back of my boat when we go sailing as a family. Here's a snap of my wife,taken in the bar when we were on holiday last year!

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 07:15:14 PM by Colin Bishop
Have divorce proceedings been instituted yet?

96. J25 MK1 VS MK2
Posted on 2/3/2003 at 08:35:12 AM by Dave Fry
Hi All, I've heard the Mk1 suffered from lee helm and a badly balanced rudder. Apart from differences in the rig, are there any easy ways to tell a Mk1 from a Mk2? When were the Mk2s introduced?

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 10:13:23 PM by Laurie
Most of your questions are answered on the 25 page on site; however the Mk2 was introduced late 81-1982.
The supposed lee helm is recognised as a component mostly exhibited on twin keel boats, as the keels are set aft compared to the mast. However it it also recognised that the standard rudder blade is under balanced, & a modified blade is shown on site with the dimensions. This all pre supposes that the rig & sails are properly tuned in the first instance.

Posted on 2/3/2003 at 12:02:01 AM by Gordon Bellenie
My Jag is a 79,It only suffers lee helm in very light airs, So I have found if I shorten sail! the jenoa! she sails realy well. On a good blow or heavy seas she`s great!!. Or one could bung the engine on to turn!!

97. WHITE SILK
Posted on 3/3/2003 at 08:50:30 PM by Keith Taylor
I am trying to find details of White Silk,so far all I've managed is that it is based on a Jaguar 27 and is 28' in legnth.Can any one fill in some detail please.

Posted on 3/3/2003 at 09:55:34 PM by Laurie
WE have a White Silk (& a J28) on our membership.The WS was based on the 28, itself a stretched J27, with a new deck moulding, which was subtely(?) revamped again for the WS. There are other differences, both following the more common Catalina layout below, the WS has the shrouds further outboard, & differing keel configs. available. The WS was built on the Broads until the mid 90s............& as such many are orientated (but not all!) in their setup to Broads sailing.....pictures will shortly (hopefully) be available on site.

98. ANSWER TO A MAIDENS DREAM
Posted on 3/3/2003 at 11:12:05 PM by Steve Edwards
For all of us who have been looking for the mast gate. The solution is listed in www.force4.co.uk page 93 under sail track stops for the huge sum of £8.95 parts 880061 to 63 seems to solve most issues.

Posted on 5/3/2003 at 09:37:21 PM by Christine
Thanks Steve, but true to form, when I checked out the web page, not only could I not navigate by page numbers, but a key word search refused to bring up said item. I ordered a catalogue and will be waiting with interest.

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 08:09:01 AM by Dick Hicks
I still think my split pin & the shock cord around the mast the simplest and cheapest... IMHO

Posted on 5/3/2003 at 10:12:22 PM by Laurie
Thats what I had.........

99. J22 KEEL WINCHES
Posted on 4/3/2003 at 10:55:49 AM by Steve O'Connell
I have just had a fax from Catalina Direct quoting a new winch and handle for $89.30 (£56.46) plus p&p. They can be contacted via e-mail at: [email protected] - the lady's name is Lindsey Moore.
Phone No: 001 916 843 1970
Fax: 001 916 843 1973.
You have 2 choices of carriage - Air mail which takes 4-7 days or Global Parcel Post which takes up to 4/6 weeks.

Posted on 5/3/2003 at 02:50:36 PM by Steve Edwards
Bought one much improved design with bigger hub. If you have a wire, rather than strop, buy a new turning ball, pin and cable while you're at it.

Posted on 5/3/2003 at 03:20:08 PM by Steve O'Connell
Thanks Steve,
I was intending to replace everything except the hose anyway.

Posted on 8/3/2003 at 05:56:09 AM by Chris Rumbold
What is this hose you are talking about Steve. I have just had a problem this weekend racing where a large bunch of weed mixed with fishing net caught around the wire and jammed my keel in the up position whilst on a run and I had great difficulty getting the keel down again after coming round onto a beat. It caused me to retire from race.
Regards Chris

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 01:53:25 PM by Steve O'Connell
The wire goes through a piece of hose before exiting underneath the boat. It's not very long and about 1.5/2 inches in diameter.

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 08:33:58 PM by Steve Edwards
It's a bit critical on a 22 as the bottom of the hose is below the waterline. If a broken strand or anything else catches and pulls the hose off you sink. Everybody worries about the dreaded ballhead loo this area seems a just as likely failure point. Or have I lost the plot again?

Posted on 11/3/2003 at 05:19:12 AM by Chris Rumbold
The wire on my keel comes up into the boat through a fiberglass tube moulded into the hull. There is no hose below the water line. Just the wire attached to the lift keel and passes through the tube to the winch. I suppose a bit of tube could be fitted but the max length would could only be about 12" long otherwise it would obstruct the winch when keel is raised up. One wonders if that would solve the problem of weed catching on the wire. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am sure the waters off Bahrain are not the only areas that suffer from masses of weed drifting about at times.

Posted on 11/3/2003 at 09:04:11 AM by Steve O'Connell
That's exactly it - the length of hose inside the boat is only a few inches long - it's open at the top (winch end) and fastened with 2 jubilee clips to a moulded tube at the bottom end.

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 10:45:00 AM by Chris Rumbold
Thanks Steve, I am with you now. Cannot see how that solve the problem of getting weed around the wire. I need some magical power to stop that.

100. SPARE PARTS
Posted on 4/3/2003 at 01:21:49 PM by Stuart Wartalski
Re my J27 I'm looking for a little help locating a broken forehatch riser rod - you know the thing that holds the hatch open. Is there a spare parts supplier in the UK ?? Thanks

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 01:30:51 PM by Dick Hicks
I had to replace mine about 2years ago - couldn't find a supplier in UK - but found one in Holland at the chandlery in Breskens during our summer cruise.
Try people like Vetus or Plastimo, there is no name on mine and I suspect it is Taiwanese.

Posted on 4/3/2003 at 01:45:33 PM by Simon Doggett
I replaced mine last year. They're generally available from chandlers. Mine was a Simpson Lawrance jobby - smallest size I think. I did need to drill new holes in the hatch.

101. MAST GATES AND ANSWERS TO MAIDENS DREAMS
IP: 195.40.200.149
Posted on 7/3/2003 at 04:03:19 PM by Paul

Having followed the postings about mast gates etc., I think that for some of us the proposed solutions (bungee, track stops, etc.) will not work. Although there must be a cutout to allow sliders to exit the mast groove when removing the mainsail, on my boat and many others this must be closed with something that still allows the sliders to travel past it when lowering the sail, reefing and so on. So a mast track stop will not work. here is a picture of what I have on my mast (Z spars), which works perfectly. Held in place with two screws, it closes the cutout to one side of the track. loosen one screw and the the gate will then swing out of the way so sliders can be removed from the track.
It does not have the attribute of being home made however!

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 03:07:48 PM by Grahame Lloyd
Another option is to drill a hole obliquely through the bottom of the mast groove and into the mast. A tightly fitting split pin (on a restraining cord)pushed in stops the sliders descending. Cost 50p!

Posted on 12/3/2003 at 07:07:49 PM by Christine
The point is you do want them to descend so you can put the reef in. So a method is needed to allow the sliders to come nearer to the mast without exiting the mast so that they will just slide back up when you shake the reef out. Or that's my understanding anyway.

Posted on 13/3/2003 at 12:10:56 AM by Grahame Lloyd
Re Christine's comments.
If you use a pin as previously described, when you want to reef, pull out the pin and let as many sliders out as required and then re-insert the pin! Reverse the procedure to take out the reef. This certainly works on the J27.

Posted on 13/3/2003 at 08:17:26 PM by Christine
But wouldn't you have to go up to the mast to take the pin out and put it back in? I want a method that I can do single handed from the cockpit. When you are tied up (literally) with the childrens harnesses and leads you are unable to get to the mast, so we need another method.

Posted on 12/3/2003 at 10:30:52 PM by Paul
Yes, that's exactly it.... on some masts the arrangement is different, but on mine the sliders must be free to move up and down past the mast gate. Steve had it right, the gate is fixed vertically covering the cut out in the mast track, and there is a little lip (not obvious in the picture I posted) which forms a smooth edge so the sliders move past easily. This would be easy to fabricate, but you would have to curl over a bit of one side to make that lip.

Posted on 9/3/2003 at 12:49:52 AM by Steve Edwards
Paul
I think I have the general drift. But which way does it fit? I presume the two fixing screws are vertical and the elongated slot is also vertical. We have a small fab shop local to work that could knock these up in stainless if anyones interested let me know numbers and I'll get a price.

Posted on 13/3/2003 at 06:49:17 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Guess what! I bought one of those magic slide covers,it did not work for me,as my gate was open on both sides.As you know I made my own cover,and it works.

Posted on 14/3/2003 at 08:00:06 AM by Dick Hicks
Gordon, on my J27, I also have a gate open on both sides, and have just made a twin 'gate', actually two plates, one each side. I still have to fit it this weekend but am not optimistic that it will work OK. I have a fully battened main, with a swivelling hook just above the gate which catches the sliders before they drop into the gate. The reason I want to let the sliders drop lower is that when reefing, I have to let the sliders past the hook before I can pull the tack down far enough. I wouldn't need to do this if the sliders dropped down further.
How did you make your gate? I would be interested to know.

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 02:38:48 PM by Steve Edwards
I've just remembered I have seen a design, somewhere, of one made out of aluminium carpet edging strip. I'll dig it out watch this space!

Posted on 21/3/2003 at 02:37:31 PM by Steve Edwards
This is the web site that uses the carpet strip design. www.catalinayachts.org/Fleet4/Tech.htm .They are a fixed design but as my main is in a pack-away and I take the boom off with the main for long term storage they would work for me

102. J22 TRAILER/RUDDER AND WINDOWS
Posted on 7/3/2003 at 09:05:05 PM by Dave
Can anyone help me with a design for a J22 trailer and where I could have one built. I also need guidance on how to solve the problem of a loose tiller, I've tried large washers, Is there a successful replacement mechanisma to swing the rudder. Lastly, where can I buy replacement window seals and windows~?

Posted on 9/3/2003 at 12:59:19 AM by Steve Edwards
Dave
I made a shim from thin aluminium plate bonded to the tiller and then labouriously filed by hand to fit the rudder stock. I used a tank cutter to make two large washers from the bit left over to go on the outside and spread the load a bit. Looks quite smart. Rudder blade same as a dinghy up and down lines with a jam cleat on the top of the stock. Needs the help of a boat hook to push down, but saves struggling with the rusty spanner to tighten the bolt under water. It also allows the rudder to lift if you ground it (While going forward).

Posted on 7/3/2003 at 10:31:41 PM by Laurie
Specifically in answer to your last point, see the suppliers directory......

103. J27 KEEL BOLTS
Posted on 8/3/2003 at 09:34:32 PM by Dirk
I am about to buy a Jaguar 27. I read in various forums that some construction years of the catalina 27 had problems with desintegrated keel bolts which resulted sometimes in the need of a total replacement of the keel. Does the Jaguar 27 (which in most parts is identical with the catalina) have the same problem? Which contruction years are affected?

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 08:35:19 AM by Dick Hicks
I also have a J27 of 1974 vintage, the keel bolts are Stainless Steel(I think) - difficult to see but have no weepage around the nuts inside and no movement seen outside. Don't forget that although the J27 was a Catalina 27 design, there were a lot of minor differences as it was built in the UK. If there is no sign of movement, and your surveyor is not concerned then go ahead and buy her - you will not be disappointed.
IF they have to be replaced, I suspect it is a major boatyard job, suspend the boat in slings and drop the keel? and then stop it falling sideways, renew the keelbolts, probably tapped into the keel(Whitworth Threads?) and then replace. Make allowance for this in your offer if the surveyor recommends it. Keep us informed of progress.

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 03:30:01 PM by Dirk
Do you know whether all bolts/nuts in Jaguar 27 are stainless? Apparently the Catalina ones are not and rusted away.

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 11:41:44 PM by Laurie
There's stainless & there's stainless...Yes, they should be stainless...but don't think then that they can't corrode.

Posted on 10/3/2003 at 07:20:19 PM by Dick Hicks
On my J27 the keelbolts are Stainless, but I have had a few minor screws, nuts etc which I have found have rusted badly - but don't know wether these were original or added later. It was common in various makes of boat in this era to fit cheap(rusting - Zinc Plated?) fasteners in unimportant locations.
I cannot speak for the Catalina.
All important ones on my boat are stainless as far as I know.

Posted on 9/3/2003 at 08:15:31 PM by Laurie
I'm not sure quite what you mean by "desintegrated", but if you mean the potential for corrosion weakening the keel bolts; the 27 is no worse in this respect, for boats with bolted on keels, be they twin or fin, than any others of similar vintage. A good surveyor would look at this; is there any signs of corrosion internally, in the bilges/lockers; any "weapage"; any indication of the keel/stubs flexing were they join the hull? Any corrosive streaks there? Bear in mind that many bolts will have been there for 25 years or so.........
If it helps, I have a 27, and am very happy with the bolts.

104. CORROSION PROTECTION (CONFUSED)
Posted on 13/3/2003 at 08:10:45 PM by Dave Clark
Reading the article that came along with "SEA CATS" can't quite see the point of bonding fittings that are insulated from everything by rubber pipe or grp mouldings. Can see the point of engine,prop etc. I recon you could do yourself a bit of harm by bonding everything by inducing stray currents into the fitting along the bonding wire, or am I missing something here ?.

Posted on 14/3/2003 at 07:47:57 AM by Dick Hicks
I haven't read the article yet, there always has been controversy about "bonding". My J27 was bonded when I first got her but the surveyor said it didn't need it, the hull anode the bonding circuit was fixed to easn't working, so I removed it. All the underwater fittings are bronze, I have an anode on the prop shaft, and this protects the prop. I checked all the hull fittings 2 years ago and they were all fine, no sign of dezinctification. As long as the fittings are checked regularly I don't think you'll have a problem.

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 03:44:01 PM by Laurie Milton
As Dicks metals are of similar nobility, save the shaft, which is protected, then I woldn't expect any problems. I have one anode on my saildrive only, & all is well.
The article was written to cover all types of bonding dependant on what was vulnerable... obviously if a metal is in contact with another of lesser nobility, & in contact with seawater, then protection (bonding) will be required. Zinc anodes being low on the (nobility) scale are consequently sacrificial, instead of something important, mechanically or structurally.

105. ANODE/ENGINE
Posted on 15/3/2003 at 10:18:02 PM by Dave Clark
The edges of the prop looks as though a mouse has been nibbling the edges so I shall be fitting a shaft anode asap. BUT:-
The saga this week is "the engine". It looks as though it has been painted over with a quick skim of Hamerite to make it look nice, I noticed the single injector tucked away behind pipes is a rusty peg of a thing. The holding nut on one side is so rusted it fell away when I poked it with a screwdriver and now resembles a thin shim. I recon if it were left without imediate attention the injector could blow out if it were run for some time, now my question. How heavy is the Yanmar engine ?, it only looks a little thing and could be lifted out depending on the weight. I could then refit it on the bench but I've been caught by little things like this before.

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 11:43:47 PM by Laurie
-fit a new prop. too!

Posted on 15/3/2003 at 11:37:05 PM by Laurie
1gm10? either way, although a lot lighter than the old Volvos, a crane through the hatch is the norm., or at least block & tackle. Yanmar or one of the engineers listed in the directory, Frenchs for example, could specify exact weight......
Posted on 18/3/2003 at 05:00:55 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Draw off the Flywheel first! it will make things a lot lighter, and the engine will probable only be about 140lbs in weight. One or two guys should
handle that quite easily!.

106. J27 GALLEY
Posted on 18/3/2003 at 09:51:02 AM by Hilary
Ours is the model with the galley to port, aft in the corner next to companionway. 1 single-bowl sink, double burner cooker, and in the corner, below worktop, an insulated store which seems really awkward to use. There is unused/wasted space behind some woodwork. Some worktop is unuseable as there are just a few inches above it to cupboard and bulkhead. Has anyone remodelled their galley? Or got ideas to improve what's there?

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 01:23:10 PM by Dick Hicks
Ours sound similar, as you say the 'cool box' is in a pretty useless position - in fact we rarely use ours except to store tinned food in, which we usually forget about! The area immediatel under the port cockpit, I have converted into a plate & mug storage - this works well and bits don't fly out when under way. Immediately to the right of the cooker, over the seat I have fitted a flap up small worktop, again works well and in practice is nearly always left raised. This is small so as you still have access to the cutlery drawer when lowewred. Immediately behind the cooker, against the side of the boat I have added a length of 'railing' to retain small containers and immediately above is the sliding door cupboard.
I'm still loooking at other ideas; between the side of the cockpit and the coolbox there is a space which could become a deep long drawer; immediately under the sink is sufficient space to add another drawer, but would have to reposition the sink drain,inlet and seacock with elbows etc. - this is all for probably next winters projects.

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 09:20:24 PM by Laurie
Mine is as Dicks, but I use the coolbox to store imbibing stores, area under cockpit for pots & pans etc, sliding drawer under cooker for crockery, drawer to right over berth for cutlery. For a 27' boat, it's a galley not often bettered...?

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 09:22:11 PM by Anonymous
-behind all this on the hull, is a cupboard with sliding doors....(as per piccies)

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 05:03:47 PM by Simon Doggett
Great minds think alike! We've done almost exactly the same as Dick. Under the port cockpit area, I've put a length of batten running across the top to stop things sliding forward and put a length of that non-slippy stuff back there. We use that for storing pots and pans. To the right of the cooker I've fitted a worktop which is 'fixed' in place in the same way as the table, i.e. it lifts off. It also has a hinge out support, but I must confess, this hasn't been entirely successful. I'm thinking of changing to a flap arrangement. I've also added a batten running fore and aft leaving a gap against the side of the hull. We use this for mugs.
Our only enhancement in addition to Dick's is a plate and bowl holder which is screwed to the cabin side above the galley. This was tricky to make, but has been hugely successful as it has freed up the swing out cupboard under the aft dinette seat.
Obviously I'd be delighted to show off these bits of carpentry. Have you arrived safely in Southsea yet?

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 07:57:11 PM by Hilary
Thanks Dick and Simon. That gives me inspiration, and reflects what I wondered about. It seems a shame to have unused, inaccessible space! We are still ashore @ Deacons yard. New standing rigging is to be replaced on or after April 4, then we hope to launch and sail on down! In meantime, electrics, engine and antifouling! Our berth is Southsea berth is F3!

Posted on 19/3/2003 at 08:52:26 PM by bernadette
i think the galley is the worst ever! our vivacity 24 was far better with two double sinks! we have no cutlery drawer (yet) but do have a large saucepan cupboard under the cooker (no oven). things disappear into the "cool-box" forever, where they warm up as it is next to the engine.
our port berth has been made narrower to enable a shelf to be run behind it. no one we know could sleep on it anyway. our children are too tall! it is still a handy seat.
we do have some teak shelf things to hold mugs, plates and the most important whiskey glasses. these are fitted into every available space on the "walls".
the table is the perfect height for meal prep and washing up. i bought a small plastic bowl and wash up at the table and used a drying up cloth to put the stuff on to drain. however, now we have a nifty folding drainer.
All this shouldn't be necessary and given the cash and david's inclination (he'd rather be sailing) could easily re-design it. the original designer must have been mad or something. i could make a sexist remark here. Grahame Lloyd has moved their cooker forward and that looked to be the start of something good when we met at the folly last year.

Posted on 19/3/2003 at 10:26:10 PM by Laurie
I thought you'd reply to that!!
I'm 6'5" & sleep on the post settee berth..............

Posted on 22/3/2003 at 11:20:52 AM by Laurie
post? settee berth..? try port....(by the bottle!)

Posted on 22/3/2003 at 08:03:58 PM by bernadette
laurie, you are obviously very slender and never fidget at night possibly due to the port! Do your feet really fit into the trotter box?.......
Met hillary and dave by chance today at alladin's cave / deacons yard and after suprised introductions and a good goss, hillary agreed about the manky galley design. maybe one day....

Posted on 23/3/2003 at 11:11:26 PM by Hilary
Great it was to be acosted by 2 friendly Jag owners. Yes, the galley could be improved, as has already been suggested! I have also been looking at the USA Catalina 27 owners websites which make interesting viewing. Oh, and whilst searching on Jaguar 27, well.... I came across Sailing charter on a JAg 27 in the Ionian, on Peters Nudist Pages ..... complete with jolly tasteful pics. No pics of the galley though.

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 11:25:58 AM by Laurie
Dunno about the nudists, but the 27 fleet is probably now one of the oldest charter fleets around. Speaks volumes for the 27........

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 05:09:08 PM by Jeremy Knight
But you didn't give us the address of the nudists' page!!!! Maybe www.nude-on-a-Jag.org?

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 10:04:33 PM by Hilary
Well you did ask! http://www.addicks.fsnet.co.uk/nat/nude/sailing.htm

Posted on 25/3/2003 at 12:42:01 AM by Geoff
Is it going to be safe aboard Salve Naute?!

Posted on 25/3/2003 at 10:51:06 AM by Jeremy Knight
Well I never! I wouldn't have believed it. He seems to have fitted a prop shaft extention and a new stern gland! From Galleys to g-strings in one thread - it could only happen on the Jaguar forum!

Posted on 25/3/2003 at 09:39:17 PM by Anonymous
-is a g string another name for a genoa sheet?

107. J22 RUDDER PLAN
Posted on 18/3/2003 at 06:11:59 PM by andy
has anyone got a plan or dimensions for a j22' rudder please.doesn't have to be lifting .thanx

Posted on 18/3/2003 at 09:11:41 PM by Laurie
I'm led to believe, from an old press article, that it is the same or very nearly the same as the 25 blades dimensions. If that is true, the plans/dimensions are on site....

108. NEWBIE TO JAGS – ADVICE ON BUYING
Posted on 22/3/2003 at 02:19:01 AM by barry
I am a novice Sailor and looking to buy my first boat after learning in dinghies - I have sort of fallen in love with the Jaguar 22' as all the expoerts rate its sailing ability and the fact that a novice like me will be able to handle it - also they appear reasonably priced!!! I was hoping some of the owners/experts on here might be able to offer some advice as what to look for when buying a jaguar.
Thanks in advance.

Posted on 22/3/2003 at 08:26:58 PM by Phil Tomaszewski
Welcome aboard, I was like yopurself in this position about 2 years ago and have never looked back. They are a pleasure to sail and I even sail her single handed up to force 4/5 the only problems I have are putting her back on the mooring. They are an absolute pleasure and as the hype suggest a big stiff Dinghy. I have no qualms about recommending Jag 22's to any body. I have the pop top version as I'm just over 6' which helps and my summer evenings albeit on Rutland water are a pleasure, and a good escape from the Rat race. My kids love it as well. We even close the Cockpit drains and fill it with water for the youngest to paddle about in on the calm days while we drift about. Life couldn't be better.......

Posted on 22/3/2003 at 11:12:47 AM by Laurie
There is, what sounds like a very nice 22 for sale on this page........ I suggest you visit the 22 page on site as well, which will have most of the info. you require. Personally, I think the 22 would make an excellent choice. They are really versatile craft that sail well & predictably. Probably now, one of the specific points to look at on the 22 is the keel pivot/cables & winch.
Other points are non specific to this boat, & are on the 22 page.......

109. J27 GOOSENECKS
Posted on 22/3/2003 at 10:42:35 PM by Nick Smith
I am converting my in-mast reefing to slab or roller. My boom has a telescopic (gas-filled) vang - can you 27 owners tell me how the boom is attached to the mast - is it a sliding fixture or solid mounted. All replies appreciated.

Posted on 23/3/2003 at 10:24:45 PM by Laurie
Sliding, with adjustable clamp......

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 08:59:19 AM by Nick Smith
Hi Laurie, Thanks for reply. You'll see "Sirius" has still not been sold and the more the season kicks in perhaps she'll stay for another year especially after anti-foul applied at weekend - I'd forgotten how quick she is....

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 07:57:56 AM by Dick Hicks
My J27 started off with a sliding gooseneck when I got the boat about 5 years ago - but it was knackered, kept chewing the track about, and as it had useless reefing, I bought a new boom kit from Z-SPARS complete with gooseneck and they made the fixed fitting to suit the mast section. I would recommend the fixed gooseneck. Incidently why are you getting rid of the inmast furling?

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 08:25:52 AM by Nick Smith
HI Dick, thanks for reply. Two reasons for removing in-mast, first, inefficient sail shape, no battens, loss of power, plus the mechanism, whilst simple to use, is inclined to snag, plus windage and weight with the in-mast housing I effectively have two masts! We shall see!

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 11:18:42 AM by Laurie
I must admit, the idea of inmast furling doesn't sit comfortably with me either.....but a lot of boats seem to go for it.

110. PROPS – HOW DO YOU GET THEM OFF ?
Posted on 23/3/2003 at 10:28:19 PM by Dave Clark
As already reported my prop has been nibbled by mice so I will change it.This weekend the nut was undone and the prop hit with a few hefty smacks with my "thor" but......nothing. I imagind the universal and gear box thinking 'Oi give us a break or we'll give you one', so, my question this week is :- how the heck do you get a prop off ?. More wacks ?, or is there a secret. I noticed a woodruff key.

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 07:51:13 AM by Dick Hicks
I.m not familiarb with the saildrive but suspect a 2 or 3 legged puller will get it off. If a 2 bladed prop use a 2 legged puller and a 3 legged puller if a 3 bladed prop. They are quite cheap nowadays, you should only pay about £10-£12 for one - most car accesory shops sell them - SEALEY is a well known make. Otherwise speak to your friendly marine engineer.

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 08:03:38 AM by Ian Buck
Yes a bearing puller, I bought one a few years ago, cost all of about £10. You might have to apply some heat as well.

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 11:23:27 AM by Laurie
Saildrive has a central allen screw with a locking tab. Remove.
With a bar inserted in spinner hub, remove. Prop. should now slide off the splines...?
If not,
1/ Swear
2/ Hit (already done)
3/ Swear
4/ Puller as already advised by learned colleagues

Posted on 24/3/2003 at 06:30:49 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Take a gas lamp with a wide flame ,put a shield on one side to retain the heat and gently warm up the offening part, because some of the sleaves like mine are made ally. THis is what I did to get mine off! Okay ! P.S. take your time about 15mins.

111. J27 - QUARTER BERTH ACCESS
Posted on 26/3/2003 at 12:58:03 AM by Dick Hicks
I have a quarter berth under the starboard cockpit and find it difficult to get in & out. I have been thinking of having the dinette backrest 'hinge down' for better access. Has anyone else done this or have any better ideas?

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 03:56:28 PM by Jeremy Knight
You are right about the quarter berth being difficult to get in and out of. I find its fine if you are happy to stay in there all night. But is nature calls, or perhaps more concerningly if the crew need the skipper urgently, its far from ideal.
David and Bernadette Rowe have done away with the back rest entirely in Berenice. You may think that the dinette seat would be less comfortable with out the rest, but apparantly it is just fine. It certainly makes things easier when it comes to getting in and out of the berth, although I guess it would be quite "cosy" if you were using both the quarter and the dinette births at the same time. I am sure that David or Bernadette would send a picture if you asked.
I am thinking about making a "slot in" type of arrangement for mine rather than hinged. I was also thinking about putting a post in at the inboard,aft end of the dinette. This would have a groove routed out for the "slot in" rather like a wash board, but also may provide a useful hand hold. I am not aware of anyone having done this though. And to be truthful there are rarly more than 2 of us aboard Barcaroli, so I'm not too sure there would be huge benefit for us.

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 03:47:45 PM by bernadette
yes, i persuaded david to make the back rest lift on and off. he worried about not having a back rest (poor old soul) however, once removed it was so brilliant that we don't bother to have it there at all. it makes it all seem more spacious plus access to the longest bunk is now easyish (especially when having to jump up in the middle of a dark and stormy night when someone is coming alongside).
also our radio, etc are sited nearby so that makes better sense. we find now that we can perch at various angles when using the radio, mobile phone or talking to people in the cockpit. we also have our fridgibox thing strapped in there when we are going along. it looks good and is practical. after all there are two more seats with backs for anyone who needs proping up!

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 08:54:40 PM by hilary
Blow me. Dave and I think we should take to meditation and yoga so that we can leap in and out of said berth. I like the idea of taking out the seat back. I have seen such on the usa Catalina 27 owners sites and it looked ok to me. I look forward to seeing Jeremy/ Bernadettes in the full walnut whip of time.

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 09:12:11 PM by Dick Hicks
Thanks for all the replies, not quite sure about removing the backrest entirely, I might try it ans see how I get on. I do like to sit at that particular seat and do use the backrest. I will have another look at hinging it forward so it lays on the cushion - if it looks reasonable I'll make a mockup using cheap plywood before putting the say to the proper back.
The other way I considered is a lift out back with a heavy duty Overcentre clip at the inboard side and a couple of shoot bolts on the outboard side with locating dowels OR a 1"Ø SS post going into a socket, bent over the top of the backrest to make an additional handhold, also with locating dowels and shoot bolts.

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 10:04:02 PM by Laurie
Thought about removing mine entirely, but converted to fold down. Although very large once in, I still don't often use it as a berth, for all the reasons already stated, & its too useful for dumping coats, sleeping bags, cushions, bins, frigibox, and an upright secure place for the yeoman up against the back!!

Posted on 26/3/2003 at 10:26:28 PM by bernadette
who is the navigator and who is the yeoman on your ship?

Posted on 28/3/2003 at 09:02:58 AM by Simon Doggett
Do what we do - put a small child in there. (You can have ours if you like!)

Posted on 28/3/2003 at 11:34:35 AM by Dick Hicks
Bin there, done that, got the T-shirt!!

Posted on 29/3/2003 at 10:51:40 AM by gordon harris
J27 Elizabeth has a hinged backrest,works well.I thought they were all like that.boat afloat at waldringfield if you want to see it.Or phone me

Posted on 29/3/2003 at 01:21:52 PM by gordon harris
J27 "Elizabeth" went over Deben bar last week.much better this season, new entrance with red can as outer mark.9 feet minimum 2 hours before high water neap. chartlet from trinity house via woodbridgecruisingclub.co.uk

Posted on 29/3/2003 at 12:54:05 AM by Laurie
I am, & Caligula the ferret. I am also the small child.........

112. J22 COCKPIT DRAINS
Posted on 31/3/2003 at 01:42:30 PM by Kevin Powell
I have just bought a Jaguar 22 and have noticed that the cockpit drains do not seem to work. I have tried to remove any blockages from the cockpit end but to no avail. Do I need to check something underneeth the boat?

Posted on 31/3/2003 at 02:43:00 PM by Dick Hicks
Have you got seacocks where they exit the hull? Not sure about the J22 but many boats will have a seacock on each drain if it is below the water line.

113. WASHBOARDS
Posted on 1/4/2003 at 01:57:31 PM by gordon harris
how do I cut plywood without splintering the edges?

Posted on 1/4/2003 at 09:33:10 PM by Colin Bishop
Apropos of nothing I wanted my nice varnished washboards to stay that way and made a single sheet out of heavily treated ply which stays on the boat and takes all the weathering except when I am sailing it and fit the proper boards. I leave the other one in the car - benefits of a marina berth!

Posted on 1/4/2003 at 09:19:42 PM by dave clark
The way to cut ply is to first cut along the intended saw line with a sharp knife (stanley type)to stop the outer layer "stranding" and then cut along that line with as fine a jigsaw blade as practical, finish off with a medium grit sand paper and then finish with a finishing grade.....done !

Posted on 1/4/2003 at 03:18:31 PM by Dick Hicks
Very Carefully!!
Seriously, use a very fine jigsaw blade - I use a metal cutting blade, which only cuts slowly, but you get a reasonably good edge. The other way is to clamp a scrap piece of plywood either side and saw thro' them all, but you could possibly get away with just a piece on the top. Then plane the sawn edges from both ends - towards the centre to avoid breaking the fibres at the ends - then sandpaper.

Posted on 1/4/2003 at 08:09:57 PM by Christine
when making new washboards, what detail do you need on the horizontal joints? Do they need to be stepped, or can they just be sloped, if you get my drift.

Posted on 2/4/2003 at 07:22:27 AM by Dick Hicks
They can be stepped or sloped or with an outside strip of wood - which I have. I would prefer the stepped type if you have enough thickness.
As I say I have the 3rd type and because there is an inevitable gap at the ends, water does drip in.occasionally

Posted on 1/4/2003 at 09:38:40 PM by Laurie Milton
Sloped. Have done so with ply and acrylic.
Still no joy on email quotas........

114. DAMN & BLAST (REWIRING PROBLEMS !)
Posted on 2/4/2003 at 03:26:08 PM by Steve Alexander
Actually I'm sure I said something worse than that but what can you do when trying to rewire the bicolour on the pulpit of a J25 and the string messenger parts from the old wire as you try and pull it through? I don't want to surface mount the new cable and can't currently see a way to thread it through the pulpit, especially as the after stanchions are inaccessible behind a glass fibre panel in the forecabin. any ideas anyone?

Posted on 2/4/2003 at 04:06:14 PM by Steve Edwards
An electricians draw tape, from any electrical wholesalers. The other thing worth a try is 4 or 6mm plastic airline. Plus a lot of patience.

Posted on 2/4/2003 at 08:41:48 PM by Anonymous
or small bore nylon tubing 3mm bore - good luck!

Posted on 7/4/2003 at 08:35:04 AM by Hilary
A sideways thought .... this from my little Bro Geoff .....
it might by quicker to unbolt the pulpit from the boat (shouldn't be that difficult). Once its off you should be able to turn the pulpit upside down, rethread wiring in much the same way as we used to rethread halyards with a 'worm'. Once that's done they can then offer the pulpit back into position and reconnect the wiring, if you get me drift, and then bolt the pulpit back on again.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:42:03 AM by Steve
Oh, if only it were that simple.
The after bolts through the deck are glassed in behind a fairly substantial bulkhead in the forward cabin. It will require some serious butchery to gain access and if all else fails it may yet come to that.
Thanks to all for suggestions.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:55:02 PM by Colin Bishop
Maybe you ought to consider training a hampster with a bowline tied in its tail... Steve, you cn't waste all that lovely cable you bought!

115. J27 SHOWER
Posted on 2/4/2003 at 10:39:59 PM by Barratt
Is there room to a fit a hot shower in a Jaguar 27?]

Posted on 3/4/2003 at 08:40:50 PM by Laurie
I use a £10 solar shower hoisted on the forestay. Excellent! At 6'5" the 27, thanks to the forehatch, has unlimited(!) headroom!!

Posted on 3/4/2003 at 09:20:29 AM by Jeremy Knight
There's room to fit the shower in the heads. However a couple of things to think about:
1) There is less than 6' standing in the heads so tall people would have to shower sitting.
2) The key restraint would be the calorifer. This would take up quite a bit of the engine room space which is not huge anyway. It could be placed into either the port cockpit locker or the lazerette, but that would of course be at the expense of storage space.
3) It would be worth checking that the engine of any yachts you look at has the take off points for a calorifer. Not all do, particularly older engines, and it would then become an excessively expensive job to fit the calorifer.
4) A possible alternative would be to use a sun heated shower bag. You could hang it from the mast, put some hot water heated on the cooker in, take the hose through the forward hatch (which is right above the heads) and hey presto. A little heath robbinson, but I guess it all depends on how much you would use the shower. After all most marinas have reasonable facilities these days.
4) Finally you would need to think through drainage for the shower tray. There is not alot of bilge to play with, particularly on bilge keelers. I don't know but my guess is that you would end up having a raised floor in the heads which would be far from ideal.
IMHO I would not even consider fitting a shower in ANY yacht less than 30'. I don't believe there is really the room or bilges to make a good job of it, and if it is a bit of a botch, why pay so much money. Also, with facilities round the coast being so go, I know I am never more than a couple of days from a good shower. And on that basis alone I could not really justify the expense to myself, even if it were practical to fit one.
I guess it depends on the length of sailing you intend to do. If its long offshore passages, well OK, but a deck shower is fine (and more enjoyable) out at sea. If coastal hopping, then I would say shore side facilities are generally better anyway. Hope this helps

116. GETTING CLEAN
Posted on 5/4/2003 at 07:04:50 PM by Gordon Bellenie
When looking around for some cleaning fluid to clean my canvas plastic coated sail bag, which were pretty filthy and black with grease. My wife suggest that I should use some white Abrasive cream she had in a jar in green house. It worked brilliantly! just rubbed it on and hey presto! it all came off, the dirt and grime.and it left my hands really clean and soft. I said to my wife thats great gear!! She looked at the jar and said you"ve used the wrong cream! you have been using my Lanolin cream.
Try it, it really does work!.

117. LIFTING CABIN FLOORING
Posted on 5/4/2003 at 07:07:59 PM by Steve Edwards
The wood strips on the cabin floor of my Jag22 are lifting at one end. Has anyone suggestions for a suitable adhesive wood to fibre glass?

118. J27 FUEL TANK
Posted on 6/4/2003 at 04:20:13 PM by John Banner
Where was the fuel tank originally positioned and what was the capacity for the J27 Mk 1. Thanks.

Posted on 6/4/2003 at 08:26:07 PM by Laurie
No fixed abode, as the 27 was originally offered without engine. However, most tanks, though not all, were then placed on starboard side of lazerette. Capacities of 12-15 gallons.

Posted on 7/4/2003 at 09:43:34 AM by Dick Hicks
Put it in the lazarette. Mine was re-engined about 12 years ago and a 17gall fuel tank was fitted behind the engine. Looks like a good place as it frees up the lazarette, weight more towards the centre of the boat and it fills a vacant space - BUT when I measured it, it looks like if it ever has to be removed, I would have to remove the engine first!!
I would like to fit a mechanical fuel gauge in the side(instead of the sight gauge - which is difficult to see), but this would entail tank removal. I do intend to have another look and see if it can be removed via the port cockpit locker. Incidently, I heard that sight gauges can no longer be fitted due to latest regs? Is this correct?

Posted on 7/4/2003 at 07:16:31 PM by Gordon Bellenie
I used to own a restoration firm for restoring old cars, you could drill a hole into the side of the tank with a 2inch tank cutter and fit a side liting sender arm to a gauge into your copit area, Try:- WWW.frost.co.uk for parts!.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 08:19:33 AM by Dick Hicks
Gordon, thanks for the info, I thought it would be easier to do it on the bench rather than in-situ, especially as I would be working at arms length sideways! And how do you catch/get rid of the swarf from the hole cutting? And I rather fancy a mechanical gauge rather than electric; Tek-Tanks do one which is as cheap as the electric version, and with none of the associated problems of wiring, gauge positioning etc. Where I anticipate fitting the gauge, you would lift off the engine cover and you would see it on the front of the tank.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 04:18:19 PM by bernadette
gosh, you lot are dead sophisticated, david uses a marked stick!

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 09:14:32 AM by Dick Hicks
Bernadette, I'd love to be able to use a "marked stick" very foolproof BUT as I said my tank is under the cockpit sole so would have to have a hole in both the top of the tank and in the cockpit! I've aleady got 2 large drain holes into the lazarette as cockpit drains...

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:58:48 PM by Laurie
Yup! Me too..........

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 04:52:35 PM by Jeremy Knight
Marked stick! Profligate luxury. I had an old piece of bamboo that I found by the slipway. Unfortunately it went mangy over the winter so I had to throw it away. So now I am looking for some other discarded twig.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:49:24 PM by Colin Bishop
Is it digital or analogue?

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 09:42:49 AM by Jeremy Knight
As it is a stick, it is a similar shape to a finger. so I guess it must be digital.

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 09:08:37 PM by Colin Bishop
Trumped!

119. MAST FOOT
Posted on 6/4/2003 at 05:11:17 PM by Philip Tomaszewski
The mast foot to my Jag 22 has snapped. Does any one know where/ who may be able to supply a new one. It was made by IYE. Has anyone got their details? Can it be welded back together? What are my altenatives?

Posted on 6/4/2003 at 08:23:37 PM by Laurie
IYE (International Yacht Equip)have long gone. Yes it can be rewelded, dependant on damage; I did the same thing on my 27 & had it rewelded. However, subsequent to rewelding, only remove the mast with a vertical lift, & not a pivot......

120. A WARNING
Posted on 6/4/2003 at 08:18:43 PM by Dave Clark
No question this week folks as normal; but a tail of woe and tears. You remember a couple of weekends ago I asked should I thwack the prop with my big "Thor" to remove it. (I had already thwacked it twice and decided not to anymore). Kind Jag members advised me not to thwack but to pull, so I purchased a big puller and off the prop came as sweet as a nut, no problem. Looking for the engine No. up the off side (sorry starboard) side quarter berth I noticed that the piece of hard plastic spacer ? had been smashed and was to aft about 1 inch. In my thwacking I had moved the prop shaft back and broken (what I can only think is a kind of sheer doughnut) made of a hard white poly material. So that will all have to be replaced. tale of woe ends. Thank the Lord I'm back to work on Monday. (AMEN)

121. CARPET CLEANING
Posted on 7/4/2003 at 09:50:16 AM by Dick Hicks
I have a strip of cheap rubber backed carpet in the saloon, nicer underfoot and it is non slip. As it had been on the boat for about 4 years it was getting decidingly dirty, I thought, mainll fro grease etc over winter clambering in & out with dirty shoes etc. However, as I had nothing to lose I decided to pressure wash it. Scrubbed carpet cleaner in it with a deck scrubber and lo & behold, it has come up like new!! And does not seem to have damaged it either.

122. ELECTRICAL CONUNDRUM
Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:28:54 AM by Jeremy Knight
Now here's a brain teaser. I have a cabin light that doesn't work. So I got out my trusty multimeter and checked that there was voltage from the wires its connected to.Sure enough, 12.5v. So I decided the lights faulty. So I connected the light to another set of wires, and it worked.
So Light not faulty and we have a voltage on the wires it connects to. So must be a bad connection. So I rewired it up again, took out the bulb, and checked for voltage on the bulb connectors. Reading was 12.5V.
So voltage getting to the bulb OK, bulb is also OK as I checked it on another light, but still it won't work. So I put the bulb back in, turned it on, and finally checked the volts on the "light side" of the connectors again. Now it read 0. So I switched it off, checked again and now it read 12.5. On again, and reading 0, off again and 12.5! So I tried another light fitting, which I am certain works, and the same thing happens!
Baffled! The light fittings are OK, the wiring has the correct voltage, but as soon as you put a load on the circit the voltage disappears.
So I went to bed. Woke up in the middle of the night because the light had turned on! Turned it off, went to sleep. Woke up in the morning, turned the light on and its not working again.
Now I am totally confused - any ideas anyone?

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 10:15:49 PM by Dave Clark
For all your marine grade equipment try www.merlinequipment.com They are pretty slick and dispatch out of Poole.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 03:26:22 PM by george wilson
It seems likely that your wiring is corroded causing a high resistance when load applied. If light works using bypass wiring from same supply source, then you have isolated the problem. I SUSPECT YOU MAY HAVE TO REWIRE THE LIGHT. Good luck!!!

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 03:50:40 PM by Jeremy Knight
Thanks - What you say makes sense. I wasn't aware that corrosion would result in a change of resitance when a load is applied. Tricky stuff this electricity.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:36:16 AM by Steve O'Connell
Check the earth!

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 06:48:44 PM by gerrit
My god what a pleasure to have a boat!! I recognize the emotion and the sleepless nights of this sort of problems. I had the same problem and rewired last winter a lot of lights. Corrosion was the cause of the problem, use tinned wire

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 10:41:44 AM by Jeremy Knight
Now here I get really confused. Its not earthed because its in the sea!
As I understand it, as its a DC system the earth is infact the common -ve circit. Is this right.
Why is that where you think the problem is? I'm not questioning wether you are right, I just want to understand so that I can learn.

Posted on 8/4/2003 at 09:27:22 PM by Dick Hicks
When you rewire, try and use TINNED copper wire, not easy to get hold of but it won't corrode like ordinary copper wire. Can be got from a good chandlery or your local electrical distributor, but they may have to order it for you. Suggest you use 0.5mm² or larger wire.

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 08:37:43 AM by Ian Buck
Your wiring has carbonised, I see this all the time, I hesitate to tell you to use a good marine spec cable because this kind of thing pays my mortgage.

123. VHF DSC LICENSE
Posted on 8/4/2003 at 06:43:50 PM by Stuart Wartalski
Could someone please recommend where I can do a one day course for my VHF DSC license in the Southamton area. I should ring the RYA but this site is becoming my first port of call these days.
Over !

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 02:07:16 PM by Jeremy Knight
We (Clipper Ventures) put all of our radio training business to RT Training. Their office is on Hayling island, but the course actually runs at Universal Marina, sarisbury, just near bursledon.
The course is pretty much standard where ever you go, as are the prices. But RT are pretty good, and relaxed which makes what is a necessary but boring day acceptable. If you have your old VHF licence you only need to do the half day DSC conversion course - cheaper and less time and you don't have to cover old ground again.
The chap you would need to contact is John Finch tel 02392 462 122. If you say that Jeremy Knight and Tim Hedges from Clipper recommended him, you may get a little preferential treatment!

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 05:45:48 PM by Stuart Wartalski
Jeremy - Thanks very much for that information. Exactly what I needed and I shall most certainly mention your name. Stuart

Posted on 9/4/2003 at 02:21:25 PM by Jeremy Knight
Oh! I forgot
Over.

124. J22 WATER TANK
Posted on 10/4/2003 at 09:28:01 AM by Steve O'Connell
I'm trying to remove my water tank for purification purposes etc. Is it as simple as unscrewing the lid and lifting out? All advice welcome!

125. J21 RUDDER PINTLES
Posted on 10/4/2003 at 11:53:51 PM by Bruce Cowie
Following failure of lower pintle and bending of the upper one due to rudder movement, I need to source replacements for both. Also, it would be nice to replace the bearings on the rudder gudgeons at the same time. Any ideas where I can get direct replacements for my 1984 J21? I don't want to have to drill new holes for different pintles if possible.

Posted on 11/4/2003 at 07:29:52 PM by paul
On my 21 the pintles look exactly like bigger versions of the ones I had on my dinghy, so that may be a clue - can't remember the manufacturer unfortunately.
On a related note, I was casting my eye over the tiller during the winter and discovered the start of a crack in it, running forward from the cutout that is made to accommodate the rudder stock. How strong is that, I wondered - well, not very, with no effort at all I was able to pull off that whole side of the tiller. So I thought it would be good check the rudder stock too - again, two cracks had appeared in the welds securing the aft section
I've made a new tiller (laminated this time) and got an aluminium welder to redo the welds, but if you have a 21 it might be worth checking these areas!

Posted on 11/4/2003 at 03:08:03 PM by Anonymous
Do you still have the damaged fittings? If they were supplied by a third party supplier the makers name (or reference from which you may be able to get the name) may be stamped on the fittings?

Posted on 11/4/2003 at 09:12:37 AM by Ian Buck
I imagine they are the same as the J22 ones, so Catalina Direct comes to mind.

126. J22 MAINSHEET & TRAVELLER
Posted on 14/4/2003 at 11:40:11 AM by Denis
First off, I must congratulate all you folks who kept up winter maintenance projects. It was fun lurking out here listening in on your progress while I occasionally checked the tarpaulin covering mine from the warmth & confort of a car.
Having spent 20+ years in kayaks I bought a second hand J22 at the end of last summer with a view to staying a little dryer. I have two children and wanted as clear a cockpit as possible so the transom mounted mainsheet 'track' on the j22 appealed to me. The main-sheet is connected to the bar with a simple shackle, and when sailing - and I use that term loosly - the shackle slid over and back as I tacked, gybed or simply tethered on the brink of completing either manoeuvre. So I stuck on two jublie clips confining the shackle to the center of the bar.
As I was putting the boat back in the water yesterday I thought this can't be right, but a wander about the marina didn't locate any other boats with the transom mounted 'bar' style traveller or at least none connected-up.
So, to the question - on the J22 how is the mainsheet supposed to be connected to the traveller-bar; is there anything resembling a traveller or controlls?

Posted on 15/4/2003 at 10:09:12 AM by Jeremy Knight
I have seen this transom traveler on many older designs of racing dinghy and occasionally on yachts. In fact a stern arrangement was the most common form on many earlier dinghies because of the strain put on a light construction hull of a centre mounted system. In a National Solo I used to race I moved the traveller from the centre to the stern. Although this gave me less sail control, it freed up the cockpit of the boat for me to move around in. As a 6'4'' weighty man, this was more important to me than the sail contol, so I found it actually helped on boat speed!
Against the design, it offers less mainsail shape control, particularly when you are slightly off the wind. This is because as soon as you are off anything other than the closest of beats, the mainsheet offers little or no downward pull to control the leach. Where as with a wide centre traveller positioned closer to the front of the boom (ie where the boom pivots) there is still considerable control even on a close reach. This makes the use of a well set up kicker more important.
There should be no need to control the travel on a stern traveller. On a hard beat you want a good proportion of the pull of the mainsheet to be downwards to control sail twist - so have the traveller out. As you start to come off the wind, you might as well have the traveller out as far a possible to try and retain some twist control - but get that kicker on!
So, centre travellers tend to have some atwartships control so that the sheeting angle can be changed. Stern travellers don't tend to do so. Main trim with a stern traveller is not as precise, but if you are cruising... The sheet should be free to swing from side to side ideally. But on gibes that could be a danger if anyone is foolish enough to be near the main, and if your cruising is it that important?
You may also find that you need to reef the main a little earlier than with a centre traveller. This is because you loose the option of letting the traveller right out and sheeting in very hard to stall the top of the sail, which is a wonderful "cheat" to avoid the work of a reef. If you let the main out with a stern sheet, it just starts to feather, and you loose power. If you over sheet, the helm gets harder. But reef in good time and all is well.
I have a stern traveller as well! Mine is a light weight track with a simple car with out bearings or any of that gubbins. It can be light because the loads are not that great, which saves having to have any bracing for the track. The car has a locking mechanism, but I tend to leave it unlocked.
You still occassionally see a third arrangement where the mainsheet comes back to a block which is tied to the transom on a sort of bridle/strop arrangement. The bridle allows the same sort of "flopping" from side to side as the stern traveller.

Posted on 14/4/2003 at 09:07:57 PM by Laurie
Yes. Westerly's are keen on this transom arrangement. You can ( as I did on my 22) arrange an opposing "tethering" system,similar to cockpit travellers, to allow a little more control. However do remember that the transom mounting of a mainsheet (especially on genny driven rigs with small mainsails)can never be entirely satisfactory in this respect, as the centre of effort is not in line with the fulcrum; or, to put it another way, transom mounting the mainsheet is not the most efficient place for sail trim, but does have other advantages, such as those you have determined as your reason for having it!

Posted on 16/4/2003 at 03:08:31 PM by Steve Edwards
I know I keep quoting them but they are good for bits. Catalina Direct they do a set of mainsheet traveler controls including all the fixings and also traveler cars for various ages of 22. I have fitted both and they look really good. All I have to do now is learn how to use them.

Posted on 16/4/2003 at 01:39:28 PM by Denis
Jeremy \ Laurie,
thanks for the replies - based on what you've siad I think I'll leave the jublie clips where they are. Perhaps by next season I'll know enough to recognise when I need more \ less sail twist and I'll do something with it then. Fair sailing. Denis.

127. ELECTRICAL CONUNDRUM
Posted on 15/4/2003 at 08:57:11 AM by Angry of Southampton (AKA Jeremy)
Thanks for all the advice I received from you all on my electrical problems. Turns out the wires were corroded. I took the wooden headlining off this weekend expecting to find some wiring behind that I could replace. But no. The wires were inserted into the deckhead, between the inner and outer skins, when the deck was layed up. So debarring routing out all the deckhead, there is no way of getting to them. Now which idiot designed that then!
With no other alternative to think of I have re-wired the light behind the wooden headlining across to a light on the other side of the boat.
Really stupid, penny pinching design like that does make me cross.

Posted on 15/4/2003 at 12:16:34 AM by Steve Alexander
Whats this - criticism of Jaguars? Have to agree though - encountered identical problem on my J25, with similar sense of frustration, and am in the throes of replacing all wiring inside and out (with tinned wire as recommended). Once the decision was made though it was actually quite satisfying to remove all the lights and cut off the wiring.

Posted on 15/4/2003 at 03:41:11 PM by Jeremy Knight
How are you routing the cables? Conduits? Can I have a look when we are at the Rally?
Just for the record I love Barcarole and for the money I think Jaguars are a good boat. But silly things like puting the wiring into the deckhead are just that - silly. They save pence in the build cost, but come back to haunt you (or in this case me!).

Posted on 16/4/2003 at 12:26:49 AM by Steve Alexander
Will be happy to show you at the rally. I'm locating lights on bulkheads rather than deckhead where possible which means cables can come directly through the rear and be channelled unobtrusively down and under the cabin sole. This cuts down on the need for conduit.

Posted on 15/4/2003 at 08:19:22 PM by Colin Bishop
My J25 Mk2 is like that too. Like Jeremy I have wired the defective light from the other side of the boat but it's only a relatively temporary remedy and external rewiring runs will be necessary before too long. Homebase do some open U shape trunking which would be quite unobtrusive but I'm not sure if it is deep enough to take the rubber coated tinned cable Steve is using. Still, if you did have to settle for PVC it would be easy to renew next time round although I expect the subsequent owner would benefit!

Posted on 16/4/2003 at 08:35:53 AM by Dick Hicks
The J27 is the same, I've re-routed the wires for one of the deckhead lights with the smallest rectangular conduit with the snap on lid, from B&Q - about 12 x 9mm internally(I think). Routed it alongside the hatch so not too obtrusive. They also do larger sizes which I've used elsewhere along the sides of the boat. Work well.

Posted on 20/4/2003 at 11:11:46 PM by Laurie
Like Dick, I've rerouted around the sides, where deckhead joins hull. ( I inherited TWO wiring looms on Sunbird...........)

128. VOLVO SPARES (GETTING DESPERATE !)
Posted on 17/4/2003 at 04:50:03 PM by Steve Alexander
Having serious problems getting hold of a replacement con rod for my Volvo MD5B. All other parts available but for some reason Volvo have discontinued the con rod. Have tried local Volvo agents for used parts, so far without success, also no luck on the internet. If I can't find one it could be a replacement engine is the only option and the cost of that is too awful to contemplate.
Any suggestions anyone?

Posted on 18/4/2003 at 07:23:43 PM by Gordon Bellenie
When I had to repair old engines in the past, I found if you rang the nationl motor museum with your dimentions of the conrod they could fined you one of simular size of a different make! i.e.
Like 1960s Riley,Landrover.extra!! If you have a firm near you that resorects old engines,they should have all the old books on the corresponing engines

Posted on 18/4/2003 at 08:17:38 AM by gerrit Andela
Did you tried the dutch marieholm owners association, the volvo MD5B was originally build for this ship. http://www.marieholmvereniging.nl/~marieholm/motor.htm
Mayby you can trie this site,http://www.adiesel.com/searchitems.php my experience is that a good search finally pays his money back
Succes, Gerrit Andela, owner of a jaguar 27 with a 31 year old petter diesel (AC1W) I can imagine your worries

Posted on 20/4/2003 at 12:35:38 AM by Steve Alexander
Relief - found an MD5B engine on the internet, complete for £150 and someone has tracked down a spare con rod for me as well. Now have enough spare parts to keep me going for ages.
Thanks for suggestions.

Posted on 23/4/2003 at 01:15:51 PM by Dick Hicks
Steve, glad to see you have your spares now. Try the Volvo Penta Owners Association next time - www.volpen.org.uk

129. MAST FOOT
Posted on 18/4/2003 at 10:34:50 AM by Dave
I have a jag 25 built 1982 in Canvey and have a problem with the foot of the mast. The moulded alluminium foot which sits inside the mast has corroded beyond repair. I can not find a manafacturers name on the mast and am stuck for ideas at the moment. I wondered if anyone else has encountered the same problem or has any ideas. Thanks

Posted on 20/4/2003 at 11:07:14 PM by Laurence Milton
Almost certainly IYB - International Yacht Equipment. Can be welded up, see other correspondence on this page.

130. COLD ENGINES
Posted on 18/4/2003 at 07:58:11 PM by Gordon Bellenie
I"ve always had trouble starting my Volvo 71/2hp engine when cold or after the winter layup,so I thought I"d try a new tack, this time I took out the water pump impeller, so that when turning over the engine to start I would not fill up the exhaust!
Plus I pull out the throttle stop haft way! What do know the engine fired second turn.I ran it for a few seconds,stopped.Then replaced the impeller,then started the engine as before with the engine stop pulled and haft throttle,she started like a dream, Wasn`t I pleased!!

Posted on 20/4/2003 at 11:51:45 AM by Paul Mead
Hi Gordon, What's the theory of what you did. How did not filling up the exhaust help? I also saw your comments a while ago about not having any lee helm. It sounds as though you have done a better job than me in tuning the mast. Are there any useful tips you can recommend. I've improved the amount lee helm I get but am always on the look out on ways to improve it.

Posted on 20/4/2003 at 09:46:07 PM by Gordon Bellenie
I was always worrried about hydraulicing the engine with water and doing in the exhaust, valves,and bending the conrod! after the winter,then churning the engine over for ever!.
I`ve put slightly alittle more mast bend on and shorten the head sail in light airs! okay.

Posted on 23/4/2003 at 01:19:04 PM by Dick Hicks
The other way is just not to turn the inlet seacock on until it starts. There should be enough water in the pump housing to lubricate the impellor for the few seconds churning over.

131. J25 LIFT OR BILGE?
Posted on 22/4/2003 at 01:57:22 PM by Anne Coombes
What a fantastic site. We have finally decided what boat to buy and it's going to have to be a Jaguar 25! At the moment we have a 22ft bilge keel O'Day in which we have spent many fun-filled hours sailing the East coast of Essex and sitting on the mud! Due to our drying mooring we need to have a bilge or lift keel, however, which??? We have made an offer on a lift keel Jag 25, subject to sea trial, but our skipper, Robin, is concerned about her stability in choppy waters, bearing in mind that the majority of our crew members are under 4 feet tall (4 aged between 6 and 14). Any opinions gratefully received :-)

Posted on 23/4/2003 at 09:43:36 PM by Laurie
When can we welcome you to the association?? The lift keel is very versatile, & at over 5' draft is very stiff with the added benefit of downwind sailing with the keel raised; excellent directional stability as the keel lays predominantly outside the hull. Stability benefits there, too!!
Is the boat you're looking at called "Carolin" @ Mersea? Hasn't your O'day appeared in PBO about cruising the Blackwater, or am I wholly on the wrong tack? (Ex 22, lifting keel owner; current 27 twin keel owner....)

Posted on 23/4/2003 at 11:26:58 PM by Robin
You can welcome us as soon as we are successful in obtaining her.
Thanks for the info on directional stability, i thought this might be the case, my concern is anchored whilst the little angels are attempting to hook something from the deep in moderate conditions. I thought rightly or wrongly that a bilge keel would be more stable? Not that i think i can wait for a bilge keel to become available!

Posted on 23/4/2003 at 10:14:56 PM by Anne
Hi Laurie Wrong tack I'm afraid :-/ The boat we're looking at is called Tarmada and is at Suffolk yacht harbour and our O'Day may have appeared in PBO but not with us, we've only had her a year before growing out of her! She kept getting cluttered up with children!! Thanks for the advice, anyway :-)

Posted on 22/4/2003 at 07:46:45 PM by Gordon Bellenie
I have a bilge keeller 25 Ayesha and my wife and I sail her out of Walton, and the crossing to Harwich can be a bit of a trial at times, but she ploughs through it very well, we have also used her in some races!.

Posted on 24/4/2003 at 09:00:14 PM by bernadette
lift keels have tempted us in the past as they generally sail really well and are more stiff than twinks and some places are even more accessable at low tide. however, our mooring is totally drying mud and we had visions of it getting jammed up with portsmouth harbour gunk and detritus. (friends have that problem). this is the disadvantage of a jolly cheap mooring and compound. so you pay your money and ............

132. J22 TUFNOL WINCHES
Posted on 22/4/2003 at 03:15:17 PM by Steve Edwards
The drums on my tufnol winches are well polished and don't give much purchase on the sheets. Has anyone tried roughing or grooving them?

Posted on 22/4/2003 at 07:36:35 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Take them to your local enginering shop and get them to nurl your drums up on their milling machine, about £20 cash!.

133. CATALINA DIRECT
Posted on 23/4/2003 at 09:17:57 AM by Steve O'Connell
Just received a complete J22 lifting keel winch/cable assembly and found the cable to be missing. I made a phone call last night and they were very apologetic. I received confirmation this morning that it has now been sent, 1st class, at no extra charge. How's that for service!!