01. J22 TOILET
02. J22 SAIL NUMBER
03. J25 MAIN SAIL HALYARD
04. J22 OUTBOARD
05. J27 'GARAGE' FOR MAIN HATCH
06. TOILET PROBLEM
07. J25 HOW OLD IS MY J25 ?
08. J25 'GARAGE' HATCH
09. J22 INTERIOR
10. J22 SEA TOILET
11. J22 ADVICE ON BUYING
12. J27 SAIL PLAN
13. PIG STICKS
14. J22 WEIGHT + TRAILOR
15. J27 HEATER INSTALLATION
16. GENNAKER
17. J25 REPLACING THE INFAMOUS BALLHEAD LOO
18. MD7A PROP HUB
19. CORRECT ENGINE STOP PROCEDURE
20. J27 RUDDER
21. J22 INTERIOR
22. GELCOAT FILLER
23. RUSTY SEACOCKS
24. J22 SPINNAKER/ CRUISING SHUTE
25. WATER SEPARATORS
26. SMELLY HEADS CURE!!!!
27. STRESS FRACTURES
28. WHITE SILK SPRAYHOOD
29. J25 CRUISING SHUTE
30. J27 SLOPPY RUDDER
31. J22 HULL NUMBER
32. J25 SLOPPY RUDDER
33. PROS AND CONS OF SAILDRIVES
34. KEMP SAILS
35. J22 FOREHATCH
36. RUBBING STRAKE
37. J25 MAST LOWERING/RAISING
38. LOOSE FOOT?
39. J27 REWIRING
40. WINTER REFITS
41. J27 WINDOW REPLACEMENT
42. J22 HEADS REPLACEMENT
43. J22 KEEL WINCH
44. ADVICE ON ELECTRICS REQUIRED PLEASE
45. J27 DRAINAGE
46. REWIRING THE MAST
47. J22 KEEL UP
48. J25 BILGE KEELS
49. SAILSDIRECT.COM – WHO ARE THEY ?
50. J21 OUTBOARDS
51. J25 GAS INSTALLATIONS
52. CATHODIC PROTECTION
53. J25 WINDOW POPPING!
54. BUKH 10 OIL FILTER
55. J25 UNIDENTIFIED TANK
56. J22 ADVICE ON BUYING / CHECKING THE KEEL
57. J22 FIXED FIN KEEL
58. J22 BOOM VANG
59. J27 ENGINE COOLING WATER INLET
60. J27 CIRCUMNAVIGATES THE WORLD / HULL BALANCE
61. GENOA SHEETING
62. J27 NAVIGATION / CHART TABLE
63. J27 COCKPIT DRAINS
64. TIP OF THE MONTH
65. J22 SLAB REEFING
66. J22 DESIGN
67. J22 FOREHATCH
68. J22 HEATING
69. J22 CONTROLS LED BACK
70. HOW TO GET A SMOOTH BOTTOM ?
71. J21 MAST FOOT
72. CURTAIN TRACK
73. J22 MKII HEADROOM
74. J22 INSPECTION OF THE SWINGING ASSEMBLY
75. DISPLACEMENT RATIO

1. J22 TOILET
Posted on 21/7/2002 at 10:47:29 AM by Ian Buck <mailto:[email protected]>
OK, removed the toilet, now have a huge hole, whats the best stuff to fill it with and what do I use on the outside to seal it, I was going to put a patch of resined glass sheet on the outside then fill the chasm with fibreglass filler , plastic padding or Isopon, followed again by another patch of resined glass, then to finish outside with epoxy, primer and antifoul, have I missed anything?

Posted on 21/7/2002 at 03:31:07 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
see correspondence on J22 loos below, on this page, all is detailed there. Just make sure the inside is properly abraded to make a key for the epoxy filler (with added "glass wool" or "dustings")

2. J22 SAIL NUMBER
Posted on 23/7/2002 at 06:25:47 AM by Chris Rumbold <mailto:[email protected]>
Does anyone know how one can identify the sail number for a Jaguar 22 please.
The boats name is POLLY but I am not sure if that is her original name. I believe she is a UK built version although she had the dreaded US made sea toilet (Now removed). But she does not have a keel locking bolt and there is no manufacturers plate anywhere that I can find. Any advice would be appreciated.

Posted on 23/7/2002 at 11:18:18 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
This is a toughie. I have tried to contact, well I HAVE contacted Angela Birch, to try & gather such data, but have been met each time with no reply.
I always thought the Jaguars did not have a locking keel bolt (could it have been added retrospectively?), but I do have a sneaking suspicion that one or two at the end of production may have done. This is only a suspicion.
However, the Catalinas did. Some also have a "pop top", which later became standard.

Posted on 23/7/2002 at 12:17:23 AM by Chris Rumbold <mailto:[email protected]>
Yes Catalinas certainly did have locking bolts and I suspected this was a US version although I do know it was brought out from UK years ago. The reason I thought it was a US version was due to the ghastly sea toilet.
I have found some one who knows the original owner who shipped POLLY our from UK and I am hoping that may be a fruitful route. I would like to date her at least.

Posted on 23/7/2002 at 02:25:02 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
The "Ballhead" loo is/was pretty universal on Jags. If only it had a seacock....!!
There's an easy way of finding out whether "Polly" is USA spec. version (even if Canvey built); it's the siting of the navigation lights.

Posted on 24/7/2002 at 05:52:09 AM by Chris Rumbold <mailto:[email protected]>
Port/Stbd light combined on the pulpit. Stern light on transom stb side about 6" down.

Posted on 24/7/2002 at 08:47:54 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Curiouser & curiouser..... that's is where Jaguar built boats had them.....

3. J25 MAIN SAIL HALYARD
Posted on 27/7/2002 at 08:59:05 AM by Ken Jordan
Ever since I have had my Jaguar 25 MK11, I have been experiencing difficulties when trying to raise my main sail via the main halyard which is led back to the cockpit. The cleats on the main sail, snag on the mast track where the sail is fed into the mast every time its raised or lowered. Thus somebody having to go to the mast and feed them through manually.I was wondering if anyone has experianced a simular problem, and if so how has it been overcome. It looks like the previous owner has removed the section that allows the sail cleats to be fed into the mast track and filed it down, but unfortunately this does not seem to have worked. Any ideas ?

Posted on 31/7/2002 at 11:46:44 AM by Gordon Bellenie
My jaws or mouth on the mast,where one slips in the slides for the main sail,are open each side of the slot,of a gap of about one inch across. Which makes the slides fly out when hoisting or lowering the main sail,this ment having to feed in the sail at the mast each time and your crew member winch up the sail from the cockpit.
So by blanking off one side,wich reduces the size of the gap in the jaws,and making a swinging arm on the feeding in side,for when,first placing the sail on the mast at the beginning of the season,you can then swing down it down and lock it in position,eithe with a screw fitting or a split pin.!
I can now raise or lower the sail from the cockpit.

Posted on 31/7/2002 at 11:46:25 AM by Gordon Bellenie
My jaws or mouth on the mast,where one slips in the slides for the main sail,are open each side of the slot,of a gap of about one inch across. Which makes the slides fly out when hoisting or lowering the main sail,this ment having to feed in the sail at the mast each time and your crew member winch up the sail from the cockpit.
So by blanking off one side,wich reduces the size of the gap in the jaws,and making a swinging arm on the feeding in side,for when,first placing the sail on the mast at the beginning of the season,you can then swing down it down and lock it in position,eithe with a screw fitting or a split pin.!
I can now raise or lower the sail from the cockpit.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 08:54:41 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
If by cleats you mean the plastic sail sliders? every spring at fitout, I attach a small rag soaked in WD40 or light oil, tie this to the halyard, attach a downhaul, & run it up & down the track several times to clean lubricate things.......?

Posted on 28/7/2002 at 09:56:25 PM by Gordon Bellenie

I had the same difficulties, I blanked
off one side of the slot and fixed a swinging arm on the other side of the slot, once the sail was roved up the mast, I place a split pin in the swinging arm, which stops the slides from coming out. It has worked well for two years now,

Posted on 30/7/2002 at 11:03:07 AM by Steve Alexander <mailto:[email protected]>
I can't quite picture Gordon's arrangement but my 25 has a hole drilled just to one side of the mast slot, above where the sliders go in. Once the sail is up a split pin in the hole prevents the sliders falling out at the bottom when you drop the sail. Very simple but effective. I don't know if its a standard feature or something done by a previous owner.

4. J22 OUTBOARD
Posted on 29/7/2002 at 09:33:44 AM by Ian Buck <mailto:[email protected]>
Currently my boat has a Yamaha 9.9 which to my mind is more powerful than I need and is damn heavy, I am considering selling it and getting a 5hp fourstroke instead, obviously peak power would be down but it would weigh less and supply as much if not more torque, but I would like to hear from owners with comments on their settups before I decide.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 11:23:03 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I agree with Dick, especially regards to prop. 9+hp is too big, I imagine it doesn't do a lot for the trim, having that hanging off the back!
I had a 6hp longshaft Mariner on my 22, & it was fine. 4strokes will obviously be a lot better in terms of fuel consumption, although, again, a heavier lump on the back.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 11:55:08 AM by Ian Buck <mailto:[email protected]>
It is very heavy, about 37kilos, whereas a 5hp fourstroke would be about 25kilos. Plus a four stroke would be greener.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 09:58:12 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Before you do this, try out a 5 HP motor and see if it is powerfull enough. A friend who had a J24, changed his 8hp for a Honda 5HP and was disappointed - less speed and noisier... If you speak to your dealer they may have a demo unit for you to try and will probably do a part exchange on your yamaha. Check out all the 4 strokes - the Honda my friend had was noisy, but it was in a well; but mounted on your outboard bracket may be OK. Make sure the correct prop is fitted for a displacement boat.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 09:55:07 AM by Peter Ferguson
I have a 4HP mariner 2 stroke. I am always amazed at its ability to push us through a fast incoming tide. I guess we can manage about 4.5 - 5.5 knts over the ground Max, which is fine at the moment. I would however prefer something that is a little quieter.

Posted on 29/7/2002 at 01:47:23 PM by Chris Rumbold <mailto:[email protected]>
I have a Suzuki 6hp long shaft on my J22. It is easy to manage when necessary and pushes her along at about 5.5 knots very easily. I have never run her at full throttle but she seems to have a bit in reserve.

Posted on 31/7/2002 at 11:10:56 AM by Steve O'Connell <mailto:[email protected]>

I use a Mariner 6HP (Longshaft) and it pushes my J22 along at 6-6.5k easily.

5. J27 'GARAGE' FOR MAIN HATCH
Posted on 2/8/2002 at 09:40:03 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Some J27's have a garage for the main hatch - mine does not and after taking a large wave on the deck and lots of water squirting through into the interior, I thought it would be a good winter project to build one. Are the moulds still available? - this would be the easiest way to get one. Any suggestions?

Posted on 2/8/2002 at 01:28:48 PM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Laurie, the J27, FLIGHTY at Titchmarsh at the rally had one and others said they had seen them. It was certainly a professional moulding, it even had the raised portions mimicking the original hatch(presumably for stiffening). Who has the moulds?

Posted on 4/8/2002 at 11:56:56 PM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
Hi all, Laurie sorry about being slow on the membership but im trying to find another job at present and havent got round to it yet. Dick thanks for the info on the Engine, I spoke to Volvo and discovered a cold start button on top of the engine block, the engine now starts on a flick of the button!!!. also if you would like to take a mould of the garage on my 27 you would be most welcome.

6. TOILET PROBLEM
Posted on 5/8/2002 at 00:05:47 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
Well after stripping my toilet which seems to have developed by the feel of it a partially blocked waste or a sea cock thats playing up. im after avolounteer to either blow of suck down the waste pipe to check its clear!. any volounteers??

Posted on 5/8/2002 at 10:27:58 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
What make of toilet is it? If it is an SL400 - scrap it! I've had two on different boats and they are a waste of time - you can't get spares now as SL has gone. Each one I've had I've spent ages getting them to work, even if you follow the directions they are not good. Replace with a Jabsco or similar modern toilet.

Posted on 5/8/2002 at 11:17:33 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I love the SL 400, & can get (most) spares.........

Posted on 11/8/2002 at 05:24:48 PM by [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Ok guys i finally sorted the toilet problem found the outlet pipe had excessivly calcified and therefore built up pressure and had blown the seals on the toilet, so this weekend i spent a sunny saturday ripping out the old toilet and hoses and fitting a lovely clean new jabesco toilet with nice new hoses. 6 hours, lots of agro, 2 bottles of dettol and 3 showers later and i have a nice clean fresh smelling boat with a heads you could eat off!! . this job definatly goes to the top of my list for the most hated job.

7. J25 HOW OLD IS MY J25
Posted on 8/8/2002 at 04:10:48 PM by keith mather
Does anyone know when my boat was built? She has sail no. 650 and from the rigging is a Mark 1???

Posted on 8/8/2002 at 10:18:47 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I'm finding this a big problem with Jaguars, if you have no builders plate....?
Eric/Angela Birch have not replied to my (several) requests for such data, & frequently sail nos do not (seem ) to match up; for on that basis it would be reasonable to think @ 650 yours is a Mk2 (produced, I think, from the high 300s?). Yet you have Mk1 rig. Mk2s were produced from 81/2 onwards.....
None of this is really any help.....?

Posted on 12/8/2002 at 12:05:44 AM by Keith Mather
Where can I find any I/D nos or marks on or in the hull? I am happy enough with title back to 1990, but would like to be more precise re age.Thanks for your help.

Posted on 12/8/2002 at 12:23:38 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Engine bearers, starboard....?

Posted on 12/8/2002 at 04:35:23 PM by keith mather
Sorry, it's the outboard version !!!

Posted on 13/8/2002 at 02:16:07 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
-Is there anything under the aft berth; or inside the moulding under the portside locker? Behind the compaionway?

Posted on 14/8/2002 at 10:56:36 AM by keith mather
I'll go caving this weekend !! It's easier to find the chassis no on a series 1 Land rover!

Posted on 14/8/2002 at 10:58:57 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I do worry about some of you....

And what's more there is no guarantee of such a plate!

8. J25 'GARAGE' HATCH
Posted on 13/8/2002 at 10:15:24 PM by Paul Mead <mailto:[email protected]>
Laurie, I saw your note replying to Dave Hicks regarding the above for 27's when you mentioned 25's. I'd be interetsed in any information/designs you or anyone else know of that I could use on my 25.

Posted on 18/8/2002 at 09:12:02 PM by Roger Brady <mailto:[email protected]>
Paul, you are welcome to look at the garage on my 25 i find it very usefull. made of ally and screwed to the wooden door rails (i think) send me a pm. roger.

9. J22 INTERIOR
Posted on 22/8/2002 at 07:25:23 PM by R Peacock <mailto:[email protected]>
Hi could anyone direct me to a website where i can get pictures of the interior of the jaguar 22 and can they also tell me if it has a sink or water tank.....

Posted on 23/8/2002 at 10:50:46 AM by Denis <mailto:[email protected]>
I'm only in the process of buying a J22 at the moment so I'm no expert but from the main page of this site follow the J22; More Info; 1977 Catalina Owners Manual; Brochures & Manuals (at the end of the page). Sail Nbr 200 page 2 has internal pictures that look right to me.

The line drawing on sail 10022 shows the cooker and sink on the starboard. The original cooker was a meths burner and it rests on the same moulding as the sink and both can be slid out of the cabin under the forward part of the cockpit seat. There is a water tank under the starboard (half length)cockpit locker.

I've seen a number of owner "improved" variations on this - all of which I'm happy not to be in the one I'm looking at buying

Posted on 24/8/2002 at 09:50:27 AM by R Peacock <mailto:[email protected]>
Thanks for the link but i had already seen those photos but they are the wrong ones they are of the catalina 22 whereas i want the jaguar 22 they are very simmilar but the catalina 22 was an american version the jaguar 22 does have differences e.g. it has a forehatch, i belive the mast has more width and a few other things - but if you could find pics of the jag22 (i have been looking constantly 4 a week now) i would be greatful.

Posted on 1/9/2002 at 10:47:51 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Many boats will have been customized by now, but basically the 22 has a sliding galley incorporating a sink under the s'board 1/4 berth.A polyethylene bottle is connected to this, there was no built in tank, although some may now have one

10. J22 SEA TOILET
Posted on 24/8/2002 at 12:53:54 AM by R Peacock <mailto:[email protected]>
Does the Jag 22 have a proper sea toilet and if so are the rumours about it not having seacocks (flooding the boat if it breaks) true?

Posted on 25/8/2002 at 06:08:29 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
What you have said is correct. It is a very substantial fitting but never the less there is always that risk. I have taken mine out, which I hasten to add is not an easy task. I have installed a PortaLoo. You will have trouble removing the fitting below the inner deck level. When I got it to that level I then abraded inside the remaining part of the skin fitting. I then filled this hole with fiberglass matting. then soaked it all in resin having blocked off the outside hole with a piece of cardboard. When all cured ground off the outside covered with fiberglass matting and epoxyied after.On the inside I have covered the top with Fiberglass matting criss-crossed to add strength to it.
With a small board over it the Porta potty sits well in that space.

Posted on 1/9/2002 at 10:42:16 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Do EXACTLY what Chris says...
Bin it, no discussion: it's had bums & bits on it for 20yrs....!

11. J22 ADVICE ON BUYING
Posted on 24/8/2002 at 10:03:24 PM by Simon Keymer <mailto:[email protected]>
Hi All, I am thinking of buying a Jaguar 22. Anything I should look out for?

Posted on 26/8/2002 at 08:53:05 AM by Simon Keymer <mailto:[email protected]>
I have just found out that the Jaguar 22 I am interested in has the outboard in a well??? That has really puzzled me as I can find no mention of J22s having outboards in wells. Any ideas folks?

Posted on 25/8/2002 at 06:13:55 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
Check the U brackets for securing the shrouds. These have been known to corrode. And the chain plate for the forestay this can pull out of the deck if not modified. The modification is listed here some where on this site perhaps Laurie can help you with that.

Posted on 25/8/2002 at 09:15:01 AM by Simon Keymer <mailto:[email protected]>
Many thanks Chris. I've looked at the site but haven't been able to find anything about chain plates. How do I get in touch with Laurie?

Posted on 25/8/2002 at 12:07:11 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
Laurie Milton manages this web site. Have you checked Reader to Reader <www.PBO.co.uk> do a search on there for Jaguar 22, I may have seen it there.
I will say in passing the J22 is the first small yacht I have had I had a Sadler 34 in UK and prior to that an Illingworth & Primrose Myica(34'). For a small boat the J22 is an excellent weather boat I experienced 30K + winds last Friday off Bahrain and she was extreemly stable I was using a 95% genny and one reef in main, she handled beautifully. You will not be disappointed.

Posted on 2/9/2002 at 05:36:30 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
She must have been on the plane, or do you have hydrofoils?!!!!

Posted on 1/9/2002 at 10:40:10 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
No he doesn't manage this site, Paul Absolon does! I can be contacted through the site as per homepage or direct on [email protected].

Give me a call!!

12. J27 SAIL PLAN
Posted on 27/8/2002 at 10:33:36 AM by Clifford McMullan <mailto:[email protected]>
Anyone out there have the "original" sail plan for a J27? ie luff,leach and foot dimensions.
Just bought a J27 and the sails that came with it are either too small or too big (off other boats maybe!)

Posted on 28/8/2002 at 07:58:44 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Had a look for the mainsail dimensions but could not find them. My mast is 33' so at a guess the sail luff is approx 29' with a 9' foot. how much bigger/smaller are the sails on your boat? As boats get altered over the years, you cannot guarantee that the 'standard' sail p[lan will fit your boat. The best bet is to measure the luff by tying a long measuring tape to the main halliard, hoisting ubtil it is fully up, noting the dimension and then deducting say 6" to allow for the luff stretching. The foot length, say 6" less than the overall boom length. My boat originally had a knackered sliding gooseneck which had 2' slide, although it has now been replaced with a fixed gooseneck - much better.
If you have new sails made the sailmaker will always ask for actual spar measurements as boats do vary enormously one from another.
Good luck - keep us informed.

Posted on 27/8/2002 at 03:51:49 PM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Can you get them from the Catalina site? - although on reflection they might not be the same as the jaguars. I think I have the dimensions of my main and genoa at home - I'll post again tomorrow.
PS just found the dimensions for my two old hank on genoas - 31'-6"Luff x 30' Leech x 16'Foot and 30' x 30' x 16' - both going cheap - are you interested?

13. PIG STICKS
Posted on 30/8/2002 at 03:10:38 PM by Jeremy Knight <mailto:[email protected]>
A rather interesting name for a fairly ordinary piece of equipment. Its the little stick that you put the burgee on and hoist to the top of the mast. Before anyone says, I know it is now accepted practice to hoist your club burgee up to the starboard spreader. However I am not one for these new slovenly practices. The traditional way to fly a burgee is to hoist it to the top of the main mast on a pig stick. So, for me, there it goes. While I’m on the subject of slovenly practices who started this fashion for wearing Breton Fisherman’s Hats on yachts (The blue things with a little peak and some black braiding on the front)? I know the Cowes is kind of on the way to France but that’s no excuse. Next we’ll be hanging garlic from the jack staff.

But back to pig sticks. Normally I have just used a piece of doweling for the stick. But the problem is that the burgee gets all wrapped up round the pig stick.

I have been thinking about a new design. My normal method when thinking about anything new to make is to knock something together, then find it doesn't work or it falls apart after about a week. I repeat the process 4 times, then loose my temper, kick the dog and finally give up.

So before I get stuck into bending old coat hangers, sticky back plastic and so on has anyone managed to find a fool proof design? It would save me a lot of wasted time making up efforts that don't work.

Posted on 3/9/2002 at 01:20:34 PM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Tried a dinghy burgee? you used to be able to get them in small & large sizes...

Posted on 2/9/2002 at 05:33:04 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I've one you can have somewhere, if you wish. As one who can't cope with an ensign, having extraneous bits of rag fluttering around, is not me. Now garlic, however,...........

14. J22 WEIGHT + TRAILOR
Posted on 2/9/2002 at 09:39:56 AM by Peter Ferguson
Time has come to consider purchasing a new car and this time round I would like something to tow my J22. Could anyone surgest the weight of the J22 with single axle trailor? I believe that the weight of boat + trailor must be 85% of the curb side weight of the car?

Posted on 16/9/2002 at 08:52:53 AM by Phil <mailto:[email protected]>
I have a 1600 cc Suzuki Baleno and I wouldn't trust her to tow my Jag 22. However as Laurie states a 2litre car would suffice and if a diesel even better as they are supposedly better for towing. Depending upon where you are towing her I would suggest a 4 wheel drive option. It'll depend on how much you want to spend. I think I have toe PBO article somewhere in my collection I'll dig it and email a scanned copy to you if I can find it.

Posted on 2/9/2002 at 10:32:44 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
PBO have done an excellent series on towing, with all the figures, none of which I can remember....
however, I have towed one quite happily behind my little A4 Avant Audi, & it's only 1600cc; so most vehicles of 2litres & over should certainly be no bother. A greater concern maybe the trailer & the launching slips......

15. J27 HEATER INSTALLATION
Posted on 2/9/2002 at 12:45:32 AM by james stringfellow <mailto:[email protected]>
i've just bought a j27 'corumba' very , very pleased - i now live aboard on brighton marina. i need to install an eberspacher d1lc - has anyone any experience of this ? where would you locate the heat unit ? thanks for any advice

Posted on 2/9/2002 at 03:49:17 PM by Jeremy Knight <mailto:[email protected]>
I have a eberspache type heater on my 27 already installed. The heater unit is at the aft end of the port cockpit locker with the exaust and deisel supply routed through the bulkhead behind. the exhaust outlet is in the stern. The hot air duct goes into the engine compartment and the vent is placed just next to the companionway steps. Thermostat/control unit mounted on the forward cabin bulkhead

It all works OK, although the unit can be a bit noisy. Am considering fitting an insulating box round it but I need to check on what ventilation the unit it self need. Given that a 27 is a comparitively small boat this is a little bit of an issue.

VERY IMPORTANT
Do not get any kinks in the air duct pipe. With out a totally free flow the unit overheats and needs resetting all the time. Mine had some very minor kinks in - although they looked more like slight bends to me! They certainly were causing the overheating problem as it has gone away now that the pipe is perfectly aligned.

16. GENNAKER
Posted on 7/9/2002 at 04:27:45 PM by steve edwards <mailto:[email protected]>
I will join promise, but in the mean time, there was hardly any wind last weekend and an ideal opportunity to get out the cruising chute which came with "T Bag" our Jag22 which had never seen the light of day in our 18 months of ownership. It was quite exciting and the old girl managed to see off most of the plain sail opposition on Rutland water. However there was no obvious arrangement in the parts which came with the boat for connecting the foot. I used a short length of line attached to a deck fitting alongside the bow roller. Has anyone thoughts on attaching this kind of foot and what sort height. The pulpit rail almost seems right but perhaps a bit high?

Posted on 8/9/2002 at 06:33:00 PM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Basically you do as you say, attach it to a suitable point in the bows. Use whatever is suitable - when you have found a suitable position and length of rope, make up a permanent length with a snapshackle on the end to clip on instantly.

17. J25 REPLACING THE INFAMOUS BALLHEAD LOO Posted on 7/9/2002 at 04:50:06 PM by Bill McEachran <mailto:[email protected]>
I am intending to replace the original ballhead loo in my J25 with a marine Jabsco toilet. Any advice on fitting ?

Posted on 9/9/2002 at 10:52:57 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Make sure you fill the hole left from the Balhead properly! The Jabsco is OK, fit proper Blake seacocks(expensive but worth it) making sure they are easy to reach. Fit the inlet forward of the outlet and fairly close to the centre of the boat. Use anti-syphon loops in the inlet and outlet hoses, and use 'no-smell hose.
You can use ball valves and skin fittings from ASAP Supplies in Beccles which is cheaper than Blakes but they will stick up more and are vulnerable to damage.

Posted on 9/9/2002 at 05:52:53 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Do not use gate valves. Use ball type of good quality. You could also fit anti syphon valve on the loop to which Dick has referred. Anti whiff pip is expensive, & a bummer to work with, but use it & double clip pipework to seacocks (attach wood bungs?)with stainless jubilee clips.

18. MD7A PROP HUB
Posted on 9/9/2002 at 12:39:46 AM by David Dillaway <mailto:[email protected]>
Should the prop hub, cap head screw on a MD7a saildrive unit be secured with some form of loctite to prevent un-screwing?

Posted on 9/9/2002 at 05:56:23 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Can do, but the standard screw is of self locking type. I would replace it if its been used for several years.
Use " tommy bar" to tighten up prop, & then screw in tightly replacement allen screw. Consider a rope cutter...?

Posted on 12/9/2002 at 11:18:14 AM by David Dillaway <mailto:[email protected]>
Many thanks for your reply, I will replace the cap head screw, but also there is a washer between the prop and hub, mine looks like a part of a ice cream tub cut to size! I am imformed that it should be stainless steel and the beast in question has a price tag of £52.51 these seems to be expensive for a 3" dia (approx) washer is this correct/any views?

Posted on 12/9/2002 at 10:54:21 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
What prop do you have? The standard Volvo prop, folding or fixed has a dished stainless "washer", a couple (3?) inches in diameter, that is actually a debris cutter/remover, & is less than 1/2 that price.... I think?
French Marine will confirm( see directory)
The dish fits widest part aft, so it is internal to the forward part of the prop.
Well, it made sense as I wrote it!!

Posted on 13/9/2002 at 12:04:16 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Does it fit widest aft? I'm not so sure now, as I have a rope cutter fitted; BUT it WILL only fit/look right one way; the other leaves a huge gap twixt leg & prop...

19. CORRECT ENGINE STOP PROCEDURE
Posted on 9/9/2002 at 09:02:57 PM by Paul Mead <mailto:[email protected]>
I'm begining to find out more and more about my engine as I go along.
However, could someone advise me the correct stopping procedure. At the moment I bring the revs right down but leave the engine in gear before pulling the stop button. If I have been giving it 'some wellie' I let it run for a short while at low revs. I then leave it in gear so as not to create any unnecessary wear by the prop continually turning owing to tide/water action.
Am I doing any damage by not taking it out of gear before I stop?

Posted on 9/9/2002 at 11:31:17 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Depends what you mean by stopping? do you mean -stopping as on a mooring, In which case, why leave it in gear? Or as I suppose, we're talking about sailing?
In which case it'll depend on gearbox, shaft, propellor...
Some gearboxes need to remain, or it is reccommended to leave turning, but most not. However, Volvo, actually reccommend that you sail in neutral(gearbox/prop. turning) with their saildrive,
Fixed props will (by the nature of what they are!) present less drag/resistance to the water flow if locked in gear......
we can go into the physics/hydrodynamics of this if you wish; but if not, think what a helicopter does when the rotors are turning, & then when they stop...?
I have a fixed 2 blade on a saildrive, having removed a folder; having idled & stopped the engine, then put the lever astern, locking the prop.
Long keelers used to mark the shaft to be able to lock the prop in line with the deadwood, ie up & down, in line
with keel & rudder.

Posted on 9/9/2002 at 11:35:41 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
ps. I always put it into neutral prior to killing the donkey........& then lock the prop., remembering to go into neutral prior to restarting.
Hope this helps

20. J27 RUDDER
Posted on 13/9/2002 at 09:56:21 AM by Clifford McMullan <mailto:[email protected]>
Is there anyone out there who can help??
I am looking for detail drawings / plans for the rudder of a J27 having "dropped" the original rudder last week I need to make a new one but without access to the old one (as a template) it is rather difficult.

Posted on 13/9/2002 at 12:06:49 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Where-abouts are you? I have the swept back type(not transom hung) and you would be welcome to look at it when laid up.
You say you "dropped" it - what happened? did it drop off? You have got me worried now as mine has a slight internal/rusty weep from it. Please tell us more.

Posted on 16/9/2002 at 10:28:51 AM by Jeremy Knight <mailto:[email protected]>
I too have the swept back variety. There is some play in the bearings, so I need to drop the rudder this winter and renew them. Any advice on the subject, perhaps from somebody who has previously done the job would be much appreciated.

The other thing is that my rudder blade also weeps a little and again has a little play on the stock. My plan for the winter was to drill some holes to see what liquid comes out then to decide what to do. But I suspect that I will need to break the blade apart by angle grinding round it then re-fill to stop the movement. Clean up the tangs on the stock and finally to put it all back together. Again, has anyone done this job?

Posted on 16/9/2002 at 12:39:48 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
There has been a lot about blades in PBO & other yotty mags of late; I can dig them out? Once you've split the blade, be prepared for a shock, because sometimes they were filled with all sorts of "toot". You may find, as stainless does corrode, that it may be neccessary to reweld/reconstruct the tangs. Chris Ure may be able to help with that, he's in the directory.

Re dropping the blade, again this has been covered before on this page; in essence there are two nylon type bearing/seals top & bottom. If they need replacing new ones will need to be made. This is not difficult, if stuck give me a call, & I'll get a local plastics engineer to manufacture them. He did a friends W33, but I'll need the originals
They are essentially water lubricated, but it means ultimately, they'll weep.

Posted on 13/9/2002 at 10:44:29 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
There have been discussions before on the bushes therein, & the replacing thereof, on site. Does it bare/bear? repeating.....?
The only way such blades fall off is if the shaft separates from the blade.....unless someone knows otherwise?

Posted on 13/9/2002 at 11:04:28 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Which rudder do you have? Most 27s hae a swept blade, but some had transom hung blades not disimilar to the 25.

Have you had a look at the links page through which you can get to the Catalina sites. The C27 pages have a lot of technical stuff, & may have blade info. I can't, off the top of my head remember; but it will be specific to the swept blades, as the c27 didn't have, as far as I'm aware, the transom hung option...

Posted on 16/9/2002 at 10:02:37 AM by Clifford McMullan <mailto:[email protected]>
The rudder is/was of the swept variety - problem is/was the rudder coming loose on the shaft - boat is coming out of the water this week for "repairs". I have looked on the Catalina site but have not found detail drawings for the rudder (swept variety)as yet.

21. J22 INTERIOR
Posted on 17/9/2002 at 02:51:35 PM by Colin Clayton <mailto:[email protected]>
I'm going to look at a J22 this weekend, and can't find any pictures of the interior on the web. Can anyone help ?
If all goes well, we hope to be sailing her in the Clyde area very soon !

Posted on 17/9/2002 at 11:14:05 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I have asked for some interior pics for the site from the membership.
What info. in particular would you like?
Have you been on the 22 page & also the catalina 22 site (links).
Both the 22 (which is a Catalina) & Catalinas varied throughout the production, indeed the Cat 22 is still available in much modified form..
Alas Mr Peacock is not quite correct when he suggests that the 1983 brochure is the original type, as the Cat 22 was designed & available in USA in 1969 & as a Jag 22 in the UK in 1970/1.
If the Assoc can help in any way, don't hesitate to email me direct (Assoc page)

Posted on 17/9/2002 at 11:33:55 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
I see Mr Peacock has kindly attached a page off the C22 site for you. Look at the first two brochures in particular for interior images...

Posted on 17/9/2002 at 07:35:26 PM by R Peacock <mailto:[email protected]>
I had just the same problem as you did there is a lot of information about the catalina 22 but the cat 22 and the jag 22 do have some differences i.e. j22 has a forehatch.
But back to your original problem if you go to the link i have put below you will find some under the 1983 sales brochure it says cat 22 but for once it is the original design!

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 10:40:33 AM by Colin <mailto:[email protected]>
Thanks 'R' and Laurie.
I mainly wanted to see how intrusive the keelbox was, but also how owners had customised their boats. I'll be saiing with my wife and 2 small children, so space and comfort are a priority, and we would want to use the boat for more than just weekends.
The one I am going to look at has a 4-wheeled trailer, but it is unbraked - has anyone any experience of coverting trailers ?

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 11:39:53 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
The keel box is not obtrusive (see class page) as the keel lies predominantly outside the hull when raised. This has advantages insomuch that the keel box doesn't get blocked, the keel protects the hull when raised, ballast is kept lower when raised, (!) & you have excellent directional control when sailing downwind.
I am 6'5" & found my old 22 fine for 10 days cruising with my partner. Don't expect more than sitting headroom though! If that is a priority, start looking at Minstrels/Libertys or Invaders. Space is enhanced with the huge forehatch & cockpit. A cockpit tent would make this....fantastic..

The 22 sails very well, again, see the class page & links....

Re trailer, I've never done it, but wouldn't have thought it too problematic; a matter of replacing the wheels with some braked ones...?

ps If it has what is referred to as a "ballhead" loo: - bin it! (the loo, not the boat....)

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 12:21:45 AM by R Peacock <mailto:[email protected]>
Sorry about the brochure (that brochure appearence wise because of the forehatch + sliding galley does correspond to all the pictures of J22's on this site(i think))
P.S Is it possible just to replace the loo for one with seacocks rather then get rid of it? (i hate porta pottys!)

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 01:32:56 PM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
To change that loo for one with a seacock is not as straight forward as it sounds. See my comments earlier on removing the infamous loo. I replaced it with a porta potty because of the problem and also with installing a seacock version. That would be a major task. Apart from that they are an excellent small yacht.

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 08:04:52 PM by Ian Buck <mailto:[email protected]>
Its not that hard, just you need to redrill for inlet and outlet and fill the existing "plug" in. I have gone for a porta potty of the type with self sealing bags and no chemicals, available from compass. Less bother and disposal is ok in normal rubbish.

Posted on 18/9/2002 at 11:05:04 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
-So you found such a poo bin, & never let on!!!

Posted on 19/9/2002 at 09:54:08 AM by Anonymous
I have now! Will not bore you with my tales of a rewire, needless to say its a lot better that it was

Posted on 19/9/2002 at 04:34:30 PM by Laurie Milton
Article for SEACATS, methinks.....

Posted on 19/10/2002 at 08:52:10 PM by steve edwards
Laurie
I'm not trying to take over your site, but I am now confused. Not only has my Jag got a teak rubbing strake, it hasn't got a fore hatch. At least it has a ball-head loo. I will have to take a digital with me next visit & post you some pics.

Posted on 19/10/2002 at 10:54:16 PM by Laurie Milton
Use it as much as you like, that's what it's for!!
My research suggests that some earlier 22s originally sold/marketed as Alacritys were spec'd thus...
Now tell me yours is a later model, & that theory is pooped!

Posted on 20/10/2002 at 09:49:48 AM by steve edwards
Sorry Laurie she's supposedly 1981? Incidentally re Crusader I didn't realise we could add to the directory whats the procedure?

Posted on 20/10/2002 at 02:00:55 PM by Laurie Milton
Its always the way! You get data, research & general bits n' bobs, & bingo! -someone chucks it out the window!! 1981 is VERY late, one of the last?

The WHOLE idea of the directory is that it is members recommendations; send me details of any company you think should be there. The info required is as all paid up members SHOULD have on the directories, sent out to them. Now tell me you don't have a copy.....

22. GELCOAT FILLER
Posted on 22/9/2002 at 05:48:21 PM by Simon Doggett <mailto:[email protected]>
Now that I'm a bona fide member at last, I can ask that burning question. Does anyone know where I can get gelcoat filler to match the off white of my 1977 J27?

(Many more questions to follow. Maybe even one of two answers! eg someone ask me about shifting 25 year old rusty seacocks!)

Posted on 23/9/2002 at 03:07:17 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
OOOH! A toughie....

Just about any chandlers; see the directory, coz I got some from them ayear or so ago!

Posted on 24/9/2002 at 01:06:04 PM by Simon
I may be new here, but I was aware that chandlers can be a good source of boaty bits (doh!). So let me rephrase the question : "what colour is a J27's gelcoat?" ("white" is not the right answer!)

Posted on 24/9/2002 at 11:21:01 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Hate to say this, but yes it is...
However you can obtain "off white".....
from chandlers(ooops!)

23. RUSTY SEACOCKS
Posted on 23/9/2002 at 01:40:03 PM by jeremy <mailto:[email protected]>
Go on then, I'm agog to hear about your seacocks!

Posted on 23/9/2002 at 02:07:06 PM by Anonymous
You asked for it....!

Hot air - it's that simple. Just squirt a paint stripper type hot air gun at them and bingo, they become hand tight (almost). As a bonus you get a lovely smell of hot resin (except the heads outlet which generates a different smell).

Go on - ask me another!

Posted on 23/9/2002 at 03:11:23 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Now thats a good'un, especially getting blathered as well; although the heads.........no.

Posted on 24/9/2002 at 01:09:25 PM by Simon
Oh forgot the best bit. See how far you can throw the rusty lump you've taken off and fit some of those lovely ball valves. Bliss!

24. J22 SPINNAKER/ CRUISING SHUTE
Posted on 23/9/2002 at 11:46:24 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
Can anyone advise me of the correct dimensions for the J22 spinnaker and cruising shute please.

Posted on 23/9/2002 at 03:13:17 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Give Kemps a bell:-in the directory.

25. WATER SEPARATORS
Posted on 23/9/2002 at 03:59:47 PM by Paul Mead <mailto:[email protected]>
I have a Lucas water seperator fitted to my sail drive which I assume pre-filters any dirt or water before entering the engine.

There is a white plastic turn screw at the bottom which is I assume is an outlet to drain collected water.

This screw seems to be rubber mounted and very tight. Does anyone know if I am in any danger of breaking anything and flooding the engine compartment with fuel if I use a pair of pliers or grips. Also I assume this comes apart for cleaning by unscrewing.

Does anyone have any experience?

Posted on 24/9/2002 at 07:51:00 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Paul, I have the same filter, mine also is very hard to undo and I usually don't bother to drain the water out - usually there is very little in the bowl. I thoroughly clean the bowl when I change the filter yearly during the engine winterizing. Even then the screw is very tight and needs pliers to undo it. In my opinion it is a design fault - the screw is nylon which is hygroscopic(absorbs water - up to 6%) so will always tighten up. In theory you should only undo the screw about a turn and the water flows out, but in my case it is difficult to get a pair of pliers on the screw, and as you say,one is scared of breaking it off...
Unless you change the complete filter you will have to live with it, unless someone knows otherwise...
Perhaps there is a Brass or Stainless screw as a replacement?

Posted on 24/9/2002 at 08:36:50 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
LIGHTLY smear with vaseline.....
a remedy for so much in life!

-but as Dick says, change the filters annually.

Posted on 23/9/2002 at 11:17:52 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
As long as you are loosening it... Break the bowl & it'll need replacing, or bypassing; not reccommended in the long term. If the rubber washer has perished, replacements are easily made out of old bike inner tube....

Yes it all comes apart, replace both filters, if you have two, every year.

26. SMELLY HEADS CURE!!!!
Posted on 24/9/2002 at 08:08:03 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Cured my smelly heads! Apparently the smell comes from decomposing organic matter in the sea water in the inlet hose of the loo. The cure is simple really, rigged a temporary Tee piece and ball valve in the inlet pipe as close to the sea cock as possible - from the ball valve a there is a hose which one can poke into a FRESH water container. At the end of your sail you turn off the inlet seacock, put the hose into the fesh water container, open the ball valve and pump fresh water through the loo. Then close the ball valve and the outlet sea cock.
After a week - NO SMELL!!
After 3 weeks - still NO SMELL!!!
This system works - don't bother with the inline 'deodorants' as sold in the chandlery, all they did was make the flushing water a nice blue colour.
I will make the arrangement more permanent over winter.

27. STRESS FRACTURES
Posted on 24/9/2002 at 11:44:30 AM by Marv Adkin <mailto:[email protected]>
Earlier on in the year I noticed that someone had queried stress "crazing" on the 25 three feet back fom the bow and half way twix deck and waterline, are the same questions being asked. cheers marv

Posted on 28/9/2002 at 11:00:15 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
This is not unusual on the 25, apparently. There has been much discussion on this page in the past concerning this; the upshot being, it seems, not to worry about it....

Posted on 27/9/2002 at 01:30:00 PM by Ralph Wilson <mailto:[email protected]>
Yes, that's about where they are on my J25

I think they were caused by using a cheap boat transportation firm from Brighton to Scotland

Posted on 30/9/2002 at 04:49:07 PM by Marv Adkin
The reason for the stress fractures, after cutting into the forward bunks to access the area,was found to be where the forward bunks "furniture" was laid against the outer hull and had created a stress point.As to what should be or could be done about it is a matter of conjecture, as Laurie points out the problem seems to have been there for some time now with little ill effects, and when I consulted a grp guru he didnt seem too perturbed by them either, so all is not lost and now I have hatches for more storage space under the forward bunks. cheers marv

Posted on 9/10/2002 at 08:59:49 PM by Ralph Wilson <mailto:[email protected]>
speaking to an ex-boatyard employee recently, he said the only neat way to solve the problem was to cut back the gelcoat, repair neatly, and then paint the hull as you'll never get the same hull colour over that area after all this time. He didn't seem too concerned about it either

Posted on 9/10/2002 at 09:38:40 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
He is correct. (unusual for a boatyard)

28. WHITE SILK SPRAYHOOD
Posted on 25/9/2002 at 10:47:21 PM by Albert Scott <mailto:[email protected]>
I'm thinking of getting a spray hood for my white Silk and was wondering if anyone has had a new one lately and if they are pleased with it.

Posted on 26/9/2002 at 08:59:20 AM by Simon Doggett
I bought one for my 27 from CJ Marine last year. It's well made, looks good and works well, but, fitting instructions were poor, it was difficult to fit and the forward bar needed considerable modification (accompanied by several phone calls, faxes, visits and general hassle) to get right.

If I bought from them again I would either insist that they visted the boat and took measurements (they used an old pattern) or, better still, fit it themselves.

Posted on 26/9/2002 at 02:40:36 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
See Suppliers Directory: S&B Upholsters. They (Emma) made a custom designed hood for my 27, (if it was you at Osea last Sat., could have shown you then!)to my design, zip up window to allow hatch& instrument binnacle to go all the way forward, & built in light fitting,&/or chart pocket. Fits & works a treat. They are local for you too...

29. J25 CRUISING SHUTE
Posted on 30/9/2002 at 04:54:56 PM by Marv Adkin
I seem to recall from an earlier notice board of someone requiring info on the Jag 25 cruising shute, is this info still required as I may be able to help. cheers marv

Posted on 3/10/2002 at 12:14:59 AM by Marv Adkin
Roger the cruising shute that I have is 340 sq ft. 24.5ft in ht by 13ft at the foot, the sail is of a full cut as in a spinnaker.I rig it as I would my Genoa except for the fact it flies free(not hanked)and I sheet it the same as the genoa. Its excellent for light to mid airs and will come up to wind to a fair degree, so its not just for off the wind saling. oh yes and it appears to be of the same weight as the spinnaker cloth. any other onfo required just drop me a line. cheers marv

30. J27 SLOPPY RUDDER
Posted on 3/10/2002 at 10:36:01 AM by Simon Doggett
I've noticed a small amount of play in the rudder stock on my 27. Is this normal?

Posted on 3/10/2002 at 11:21:38 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
It is caused by water bubble abrasion/cavitation/high density linear flow, caused by sailing so high & fast!!!

Seriously, there has been a lot of correspondence on site over the year on this: have a look below, "J27 rudder" & see if that helps, is not give me a shout

Posted on 3/10/2002 at 01:07:24 PM by Simon Doggett
It probably also accounts for the vibration and bits flying off the boat at high speed!

I looked at the "J27 rudder" post which tells me that it's not an uncommon problem, but not how to fix it! My rudder also weeps something unmentionable, but I was trying to ignore that. I'll stick with the wobbly problem first. So, do I need to drop the rudder out and take a look at the bearings?

Posted on 3/10/2002 at 04:59:22 PM by Jeremy Knight <mailto:[email protected]>
Yes, from what you say it looks like you do need to drop it and look at the bearings. Laurie tells me that the new bearings need to be machined, but I also believe that they are nylon, so the cost should not be too great (he said hopefully!).

Where's the weeping coming from - where the stock enters the hull, or where it enters the rudder blade. If its the stock then hopefully the bearing inspections should help, although I think they will always weep a little. If its the blade then its a different story. Are you sitting comforably?

I have the weeping from the stock problem. I have talked it through with various people, and the consensus is to drill a hole and let it drain. Then drill a number of holes to locate the tangs which come off the stock. Drill yet more holes and look inside to inspect the state of the tangs. If all is well, let it dry thoroughly, then seal it all up for a couple of years, especially round the top of the blade where the stock goes in. Leave it for a couple of years then inspect again. If the tangs look rusted then get an angle grinder round the blade, break it open, and have the tangs and stock re-welded. Put it all back together and glass tape it up.

Either way, to finish the job, have a good long bath to get warm again-after all you will have been doing the job on some wind swept hard in the depths of winter. Then settle in front of a roaring fire with a glass of your chosen tipple (I recomend Mount Gay Rum even though the name is a little suspect), and ahhhhh.....

Its funny, but its only the final stage of the winter refit that I really enjoy.

Posted on 4/10/2002 at 09:26:19 AM by Dick Hicks <mailto:[email protected]>
Whats this about a "If its the blade its a different story" - you don't mention the answer - mine weeps sightly from a point about 2/3rds the way down the blade - and I've been ignoring it and just putting plenty of antifouling on it to disgiuse it but it keeps coming back each winter... Will my rudder fall off?
Do rudders fall off J27's as on other boats due to the internal tangs rusting through? Please reassure me that it's OK as I can't afford a major repair this winter(I've been advised by Hurth that my gearbox problem will be cured by a new gbox at £550 - Aaaaaghhh!!!) Help!!!

Posted on 4/10/2002 at 08:59:57 AM by Simon Doggett
Many thanks for this valuable info. My cunning plan is to have the marina drop the rudder during the lift out. At least this will save digging hole under the boat later!

When I had her out last year, it seemed to be weeping from where the stock enters the hull (makes sense if the bearings are loose) and also (never do things by halves!) from a small hole (about half inch diameter) near the bottom of the rudder. It looked like some kind of impact hole. The surveyor said not to worry about it, so I didn't. But it did leak water. Incidentally, the rudder appear to be filled with some sort of brown expanded foam. There is also a very suspicious looking self tapping screw right on the bottom edge of the rudder. I wonder if the previous owner drilled a drainage hole as you suggest?

Anyway, I'll get the rudder out and think about drilling some holes. I plan to do this in the comfort of my garage - no wind swept hard for me! However, the bath, fire, rum combo sounds good.

Thanks again for the advice.

Posted on 3/10/2002 at 11:08:09 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Jeremy is spot on.
The bearings I could get done locally if you're stuck, & no it won't be pricey!

I could write a book on Jeremys drinking!! You make it too easy!!

31. J22 HULL NUMBER
Posted on 5/10/2002 at 06:16:35 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
This is mainly addressed to Laurie but it will be interesting to find out if all Jag 22s have a number here.
On the aft lip of the port cockpit locker I have found the number 651 imbedded in the fibreglass moulding of my J22. Has anyone else found a number there and could this be the Hull number?

Posted on 5/10/2002 at 01:36:50 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
For that to be the case, I'd expect yours to be around '72?
In actual fact Eric Birch freely admits that sail/boat nos were not properly recorded/consistantly recorded.

The hull on my 27 was not in fact moulded by Jaguar (Russell Marine), but by Seamaster, & HAS a plate screwed to an engine bearer moulding

Posted on 6/10/2002 at 05:40:59 AM by Chris <mailto:[email protected]>
I would expect her to be late 70s but could well be earlier. Definately a MkI.
Has anyone else got a number embossed in their J22 in that area I wonder? It ould be interesting to know.

32. J25 SLOPPY RUDDER
Posted on 4/10/2002 at 02:08:52 PM by Steve Alexander <mailto:[email protected]>
Not wishing to be outdone by our brethren of the J27 persuasion, the rudder on my J25 has a lot of movement, presumably the result of wear and tear from years of not so high speed sailing, tight turns and complicated manoeuvres to avoid stink boats. Its particularly noticeable when motoring. The prop wash makes the tiller rattle around like mad.
I intend to try and remedy this over the winter by preparing a new stainless steel pin fitted with nylon bushes that align with the the brackets on the transom. The brackets would be drilled out to almost the same diameter allowing just enough movement to rotate without moving laterally.
If anyone else has tried something similar or has any other ideas I'd be pleased to hear about them.

Posted on 6/10/2002 at 09:16:19 PM by Paul Mead <mailto:[email protected]>
I have exatly the same problem and am determined to resolve it this winter.
I have a design in mind at the moment and am trying to get a name and tele number promised from the Blacksmith down our road, of someone who works in marine grade stainless steel.
I'll let you know how things progress if you could do likewise.

33. PROS AND CONS OF SAILDRIVES
Posted on 9/10/2002 at 09:01:51 PM by Ralph Wilson <mailto:[email protected]>
I'll be looking at all the Scottish used boat shows this weeekend. Not stuck on saildrives though, or am I just showing my ignorance of the J27?

Posted on 9/10/2002 at 09:42:14 PM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Ignoring Jeremys sexual proclivities & Greek history at the top of the page, there is a lot of "discrimination" against saildrives. I have become quite keen on them, & are certainly preferable to pee brackets. What is your worry with them?

Posted on 10/10/2002 at 02:22:16 PM by Jeremy Knight <mailto:[email protected]>
I didn't realise I had any sexual proclivities, and am not sure where to find them. Are they near my bare necessities?
Not all 27 have sail drives of course. Mine has a lovely shiny shaft - just what every proper boat should have. I don't have a rope cutter though. I have always been a little suspisious of them. Sod law being what it is, they always seem to find a really solid piece of rope that is un-cuttable just when you really need your engine. Still I guess some protection is better than none at all.
Jeremy

Posted on 9/10/2002 at 10:08:27 PM by Ralph Wilson <mailto:[email protected]>
The periodic replacement of the hull/drive, also what about room for a rope cutter without the prop falling of?

Posted on 10/10/2002 at 01:36:00 PM by Laurie <mailto:[email protected]>
Why do you want to replace your hull!!!!
If you mean the gasket, insurance cos reccommend every 7 years; but most yards will tell you that 15-20 they are still fine (I changed mine @ 12, & it was perfect). That is a pain; I've NEVER yet heard of one failng. But there are no shafts, bearing, stuffing boxes, no vibration & smoother running. No need to line shafts critically, all very simple. I have fitted an ambassador rope cutter, & no problems. On researching this lost prop phenomena, most I have found, had not replaced the central spinner bolt, which is self locking for several, sometimes many years & multiple removals. All things considered, I now prefer saildrives. I hate pee brackets!!

Posted on 10/10/2002 at 04:23:29 PM by Steve Alexander
I too have recent experience of changing the gasket - admittedly the engine was coming out anyway for reconditioning so it seemed prudent to do it at the same time. The worst part of the job was when the boat was put back in the water for the first time and I had visions of water pouring in around the gasket because it hadn't been tightened properly. Needn't have worried though, everything fine and actually fitting the replacement was very straightforward.
Concur with all Laurie's comments on performance. The only possible problem is one I have with a half tide mooring on soft mud the leg sits in the mud at low water which means some disgusting silt goes through the engine before being flushed through with clean seawater. When reconditioning the engine I found the drain tap on the block completely sludged up - as were the adjacent waterways. Although this had accumulated over the life of the engine (approx 20 years) I'm sure it contributed to the overheating problem I had. All OK now though following some judicious excavating with a length of stiff wire from a coat hangar and a thorough flush with fresh water.

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 10:38:21 AM by Laurie Milton <mailto:[email protected]>
Mine's on mud too. Change the impellor every spring, & clean tap on saildrive every year too. Sludge in the leg will be largely flushed each tide: there is a large bottom hole, if you'll excuse the phrase!,through which to drain.

34. KEMP SAILS
Posted on 11/10/2002 at 08:58:52 AM by Simon Doggett
Just had a quote from Kemp Sails for a J27 mainsail. At £488 (inc VAT) less 10% for a before end of October order, this is considerably less than other quotes. I can see no hidden extras and the cloth sample and details look good.

Before I rush off and save a bundle to spend on the propshaft seal, does anyone have any experience of Kemp sails?

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 10:42:43 AM by Laurie Milton
Doesn't anyone look at the Suppliers Directory!!
Yes to Kemps many times for 2 boats, my little 22, now sadly sold, & my 27.
Quite frankly I don't bother anywhere else anymore.......
(Jeremy is keen to help with the propshaft seal!)

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 10:52:54 AM by Simon Doggett
err, at risk of upsetting you, where is the Suppliers Directory? I did actually contact Kemps as there was a leaflet in my joining pack - does that help?

I'd appreciate Jeremy's help on the propshaft seal, although I think I've already spent the saving on upgrading to a "performance cruiser" spec on the sail. (Got to stay ahead of the opposition!)

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 02:49:19 PM by Anonymous
At the risk of initiating a libel case ,Jeremys interest in propshaft seals, may not be as first thought!!!
If you haven't got a suppliers directory, you would not have known what I was waffling on about!! It's supposed to go out to all members; if your email address is on the database, I will email it forthwith!!

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 05:48:43 PM by Ralph Wilson
Kemp sails excellent r/r genoa for my J25 at £500ish for the middle spec.

35. J22 FOREHATCH
Posted on 11/10/2002 at 07:49:14 PM by Tony Maxwell
Has anyone fitted an 'off the shelf' forehatch, replacing the original on the J22. If so, what type and were any alterations necessary?

Posted on 15/10/2002 at 12:09:41 AM by Steve O'Connell
Was thinking of doing this over winter but cannot find a hatch to match - ie dimensionally the same.
To have a houdidni made to measure costs @£450 so I'll probably just change the glass and the seal.

Posted on 11/10/2002 at 08:27:17 PM by Laurie Milton
Yes: Houdini, but that was on the basis of cost. Made a hardwood surround.
Made the forepeak a lot lighter.

36. RUBBING STRAKE
Posted on 12/10/2002 at 06:10:42 PM by steve edwards
I have sent my £10 off. Thought I should as I seem to be asking more questions than anyone. Just one more, has anyone come up with a supplier for the Teak rubbing strake that covers hull to superstructure joint. If the answers in the suppliers list sorry the tenner only went last week so I haven't got it yet.

Posted on 13/10/2002 at 10:01:59 AM by Laurie Milton
I've never seen a teak rubbing strake on Jaguar?
Ask as often as you like,even if the answer isn't as obvious as we would like!
If you're joining the association, & everyone is very welcome, please can you ensure that we have all your details, address, email, boat, sailing area, etc. Suppliers list...., now, what's that?

Posted on 13/10/2002 at 10:14:07 PM by steve edwards
Laurie application is with you by post. I sail rutland water, having gone back to cruising after 30 years in Milton Keynes having believed that being that far from the sea made it impractical to combine with a family life that had other recreations. My boat purports to be a 1981 Jaguar 22 apart from the rubbing strake the only things which don't seem to be to standard spec are twin backstays and a mast that is about 18" to 2ft higher than the standard catalina 22. Bit of a bummer if you order a standard set of standing rigging from catalina direct. Who I have found to be very helpful and great suppliers for all parts. The import tax can come as a bit of a shock some times.

Posted on 13/10/2002 at 10:57:06 PM by Laurie Milton
Hi- twin backstays, or a splitter; both were used. I have heard of several boats with taller masts, & was common practice with many boats/builders.
Can put you in contact with several rigging companies...guess what; some will be in the directory! Also in the membership lists you will see we have several members in the Lakes, if you wish to make some local contact. (You may already know some them of course!)
It's the wooden rubbing strake that gets me, though?

Posted on 14/10/2002 at 09:03:14 AM by Simon Doggett
Now this brings back happy memories! I used to sail a Catalina 22 on Rutland Water (as well as dragging it down to the South coast - broke two cars doing that!). I sold it to a chap who intended to carry on sailing it there - boat's name was "Oregon". Is it still there?

Posted on 14/10/2002 at 08:29:17 PM by steve edwards
Hi all
My jaguar is T Bag. I have no idea where the name came from, would be interested to hear from anyone who knows. Haven't seen Oregon but will check with the cruiser fleet captain as there are between 8 & 12 jags mostly on moorings.
Laurie, what is the normal rubbing strake, it might be easier to replace the lot rather than the length that has a rotten piece?

Posted on 15/10/2002 at 06:28:26 PM by Laurie Milton
...."plasticized" rubber strip in metal trim.........grey colour

Posted on 16/10/2002 at 10:14:53 AM by Steve Alexander
I recently had a new rubbing strip fitted as part of some insurance repairs. It is black plasticised rubber within an aliminium trim - and very smart it looks too.

Posted on 19/10/2002 at 08:43:01 PM by steve edwards
Any details on supplier, if they did it in blue it would colour code with all the rest of the trim. At this rate T Bag will be worth more than a new Catalina 22!!!

Posted on 21/10/2002 at 09:34:11 AM by Steve Alexander

It was fitted by Yacht Solutions Ltd at Unit 3, The Slipway, Port Solent, Portsmouth, PO6 4TJ Tel. 023 9220 0670
Not sure if its available in blue but I'm sure they can let you know!

37. J25 Mast Lowering/Raising
Posted on 14/10/2002 at 02:14:12 PM by Steve Alexander
Its that time of year when many of us are about to remove boats from the water. Does anyone know of a safe method of lowering /raising the mast on a J25 without the use of a crane?
My club has a dolphin with a crane on top but access is only possible for about an hour either side of HW and it can get very busy in the period leading up to craning - especially if everyone has to wait for some calm weather. A DIY method would enable it to be done on the mooring.

Posted on 14/10/2002 at 03:04:25 PM by Laurie Milton
See links page. There is an article there based on a 22. Mind you whether its practical to do on the mooring I would doubt. Why not drop the mast AFTER craning out?

Posted on 14/10/2002 at 04:20:18 PM by Steve Alexander
Not possible - club rule is that if you are being craned, the mast has to be down. We book two cranes - one on the slipway and one in the club compound, with a tractor/trailor to shuttle between. The system works well but would not be possible if boats still had masts up. The good thing is it lets you inspect the mast on a regular basis!
Is the 22 mast a lot lighter and easier to manage?

Posted on 14/10/2002 at 10:35:07 PM by Anonymous
Bummer. The22 mast will certainly be lighter, but I was thinking more of room to work, & a stable work platform

38. J27 WIRING
Posted on 20/10/2002 at 07:51:34 PM by Gerrit Andela
Hallo seacatowners,
I have a lot of questions about my J27 from 1973.
He, (or is it she) has a awfull wiring and I want to rebuild it this winter.
Is there anyone who has the original plate of the electric wiring?
I am also looking for the original decklayout for the J24.
Does anyone know if there is a original (digital) handbook for the J27 available on the net?
See you, Gerrit Andela, from Holland

Posted on 20/10/2002 at 10:43:37 PM by Laurie Milton
Definitely a she!
Hi! There is, I think a wiring diagram on one of the link sites (Catalina) but it will be based on American specs. I am always curious when people ask for specific wiring diagrams, as it can be as subjective or as personal as you like. I have stripped out & rewired my 27, & I suspect many others will have done the same. As long as it is safe, of course. The yacht magazines, in particular PBO have done many articles on this, and copies are easily available ([email protected] or [email protected])
J24 deck layout maybe available from Paul Randall of Jaguar Yachts, the new builders, (see press release on site)
As per your email to me, I hope to have your membership sorted out this coming week.

Posted on 21/10/2002 at 04:30:09 PM by Simon Doggett
There is a wiring diagram on one of the Cataline sites as Laurie says, but its not very clear. I rewired mine and can let you have my circuit diagrams, but I agree with Laurie in that its a subjective job. Do whatever suits you.
For what it's worth, I put the main junction box and switch panel on the stb side just above the engine panel on the shelf. A length of 25mm conduit was then routed from the junction box behind the cupboard into the heads. A smaller conduit then takes wires up to a second junction box under the deckhead, through a cable gland to the mast.
Use good quality cable, preferably tinned and don't skimp on the size.
Index marine is an excellent source of wiring and electrical stuff.
That's exhausted my wisdom on the subject!

Posted on 21/10/2002 at 05:21:35 PM by Laurie Milton
Simon is spot on!.Sounds very similar to mine. Wire MUST be tinned, & tinned properly. Keep wire/cable runs from batteries to engine short as possible...

Posted on 25/10/2002 at 12:42:41 AM by Dick Hicks
I agree with all thats been said previously, use TINNED copper wire, and be generous on the size to avoid voltage drop. If you can source an industrial supply of tinned copper wire it will probably be cheaper than Index Marine - although Index are very good and I have used them in the past. Have a chat with your local Electrical Distributor and see if they can get Tinned copper wire - it is available, though not often off the shelf. The website for Index Marine is www.indexmarine.co.uk
I am gradually rewiring my J27 when it is needed - usually when something stops working!

39. LOOSE FOOT?
Posted on 15/10/2002 at 01:34:34 PM by Simon Doggett
Ready to place my order with Kemp Sails (thanks for the recommendations) for a new main. Last big question - loose footed or conventional? Does anyone have any experience of loose footed mains. My two concerns are: strength of boom to take the higher point loading and ease of stowing the sail once dropped.

Posted on 16/10/2002 at 11:12:51 AM by Dick Hicks
I have a fully battened main with lazyjacks and a conventional bolt rope for the boom groove. Works very well,
I wouldn't go for loose footed as there will be more sail flapping about when you reef; I don't really go for the argument for better sail shape; also the sail is better supported all the way along the boom with a bolt rope. Also with a loose footed main you will need some remote adjustment for the outhaul to get the best sail shape.
Stick to either convential sail or fully battened.

Posted on 16/10/2002 at 01:49:36 PM by Simon Doggett
Sound advice Dick - thanks. Kemp say they can easily convert to loose footed later if I wish. Good point about too much sail flapping about. I guess a packaway system would help. Kemp will do one, with lazy jacks for £257. Ummm, sounds like a good Christmas present for my wife!

Posted on 15/10/2002 at 06:25:52 PM by Laurie Milton
Purely personal, fully battened main with lazy jacks. Its not what I've got, but it would be my choice, if money didn't rear its callous voice!
Why loose footed unless you're going for inmast reefing?

Posted on 16/10/2002 at 09:07:24 AM by Simon Doggett
Well yes, but if it wasn't for the lack of financial resource, I'd have a Malo 38 please!

A loose foot allows better control of sail shape. Slackening the outhaul gives a nice full sail. Tightening flattens the lower part of the sail nicely. I had this arrangement on my Laser 2000 (before back problems pushed me into grown-up's sailing!) and it worked fine. Kemp's say that it's the sail of choice for performance boats - and that's a J27 in my book!

Posted on 16/10/2002 at 03:53:15 PM by Laurie Milton
Too true, Najad 331, Urrie Golden Hind, Rustler 42, wake me up someone!
Yes to loose footed for that reason, I thought you may be thinking along the lines of inmast reefing...thoughts best kept to myself!
My elder brother (50) races Lasers at national level, it will be nice for once to tell him to grow up!
And yes the J27 is correctly described!!

Posted on 19/10/2002 at 08:39:06 PM by steve edwards
Hi all
Not to put a spanner in the works,& I realise that Kemp are more up market, but when I bought my 22 it had a nearly new main from Crusader sails. They converted it to fully battened with slides. Supplied a packaway & lazy-jacks and a new 140 Genny with Facknor R/reefing. Their prices beat just about everyone else & although I haven't got anything else to compare, The service was helpful & the quality as far as I can judge leaves nothing to be desired Ok for those of us working on restricted budgets?

Posted on 19/10/2002 at 10:50:24 PM by Laurie Milton
-so why not put Crusader on the directory list?
Contact name, nos., email, comments, etc.....

Posted on 23/10/2002 at 03:25:50 PM by Tony Bennett

Now I'm confused, my Enterprise dinghy has a boom rope which goes in a slot but also has an outhaul adjustment. The sail is elasticated too. Wouldn't such a system be possible on a bigger boat to give the best of both worlds?

Posted on 23/10/2002 at 03:41:39 PM by Laurie Milton

Unless I'm missing the plot completely, which is par for the course (I HATE golf....) what you've described (elastication besides) is a normal state of affairs, or at least common. It describes what can be found on most cruising rigs with slab reefing or sometimes roller boom reefing.
My 27 is a case in point with a bolt rope and sliders in the boom slot,& outhaul adjustment(theoretically!).It was made by Kemp Sails

Posted on 23/10/2002 at 09:30:50 PM by Tony Bennett

Phew! When Dick said"Also with a loose footed main you will need some remote adjustment for the outhaul to get the best sail shape." it sort of implied that with a bolt rope system you didn't get an outhaul. I can see that I mis-interpreted that. On the Ent there's a bit of floppy sail at the foot which allows the sail to take shape almost as if it were loose footed when you ease the outhaul.

I'm viewing my first Jag22 on Saturday, think it might be an ex-hire craft so not expecting too much! I say this as it has an A frame for the mast. This is getting a bit OT however!

Posted on 23/10/2002 at 10:41:44 PM by Laurie Milton
Further to our emails, if ever you're looking at some local ones; if you want someone else there, give me a call & if I can, I'll come & see them with you at weekends (As I'm no longer going to be self employed, week day viewings MAY be difficult...)

Posted on 25/10/2002 at 06:15:20 AM by Anonymous
Thanks, it's at Wroxham, but I'll look first before dragging you out, got a feeling this one's ex-hire & may be a bit duff. Your offer much appreciated though.
Interesting comment about the lens foot. (Who was Len?)
Another question, at the risk of being a pain, my cruising is likely to require the dropping of the mast quite often, how easy is that on a Jag22 without an A frame? I've seen the gin-pole method website but would like some "real life" advice!

Posted on 26/10/2002 at 12:10:46 AM by steve edwards
My jag came with an 1" dia pin welded to a rounded plate which is bolted to the bottom of the mast. A 6ft aluminium pole fits over the pin, two rings on the other end. Forestay to top one, trailer winch to bottom. All shrouds attached, apart from fore-lowers. Bow to wind, wind away on winch. Check occassionally that the turnbuckles are moving forward on the deck fittings otherwise you bend them. Single handed raising and lowering no traumers (check spelling). You would need block and tackle back to a halyard winch to do the same on the water. Is this a gin pole?

Posted on 25/10/2002 at 09:02:59 AM by Simon Doggett
My wife and I used to raise and lower the mast on my Catalina 22 without any "artificial aids" and would recommend that you try this once, just to get a taste of real dry-mouthed fear!!
With the boat on the trailer, we would put the foot of the mast in the step with the stays and shrouds connected. My wife would then tie a length of rope to the bottom of the forestay and take this as far forward as possible. I would then stand in the cockpit and lift the mast while she pulled on the rope. The mast would get about half way up at which point I couldn't reach any higher from the cockpit. This was the interesting bit! I had to let go, climb on the cabin roof and give it another heave.
The major drawback with this pantomime was not getting enough ummph to lift the mast, it was stopping the thing falling sideways! This didn't stop us performing the ritual several times although we've only recently come off the medication!
But, if you doubt the value of an A frame or such-like, or just want to scare yourself witless, have a go!!

Posted on 24/10/2002 at 06:38:02 PM by Simon Doggett
The "bit of floppy sail at the foot" is called, by Kemps, a "lens foot". It seems to be a compromise between a conventional foot and a loose foot. Interestingly, Kemps don't recommend it anymore.

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 03:28:07 PM by Tony Bennett
Thanks for the info!
Went to look at the Jag22 at Wroxham but as suspected it was a bit duff - the owner has painted it's topsides with what looks like Dulux and it shows!

If someone had the time it would be worth doing up but bearing in mind that the new Jag 21 is only 16K brand new, 3950 seemed very steep for this one.

Impressed with my first viewing though, a stylish boat with just enough room I think to keep the good lady happy.

I hope to view another next w/e.

Noted with interest that this one differed from pictures in that the keel winding handle was on the cockpit inner bulkhead. Does that mean it's a swing and not a lift keel?

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 08:13:56 PM by Laurie Milton

As standard, 22s are swing keel, although sometimes referred to as lift keels nevertheless. Th winch handle is normally by the companionway step...., below which is a box step (molded) which can house the battery & the winh itself. The wire strop is guided through a tube to the winch.
£3950 should buy nothing less than a superb 22.

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 10:09:25 PM by Tony Bennett
Thanks Laurie,
I thought as much regarding the price.
Regarding the keel, I think I got confused with the 21 or 23 which had pictures of a drop keel. I'm much happier with the swing arrangement which uses virtually no cabin space at all!

40. WINTER REFITS
Posted on 22/10/2002 at 11:59:24 AM by Big Ears
Well winter is finally here. Barcarolle will be lifted out shortly, and I will have to start on those lovely refit jobs - antifouling, sorting the head plumbing, changing the batteries and so on.
One thing though - I am not mechanically minded, but I have realised that I really should winterise my diesel engine. I have a BMW D12. While the German engineering is, as always, excellent, the owners manual seems to have lost a little in the traslation. For example.
"Ze user vill fill ze bucket vith 1.28 liters of hydroginated Wasser. Ze user vill then add 0.68 Liters of the emusified preserving oil, stiring Ze mixture at 15.25 RPM using the vooden spoon supplied vith ze motor. This will then be introduced to the Ausfart of ze Horfumburgersnaps. No departure from this proceedure will be tolerated."
I am sure there is an easier way to drain and refill the water cooling system, changing the oil, and anything else that needs doing. And I have lost the wooden spoon provided with the engine!
I would really appreciate Noddy's guide to winterising your diesel if any one has time to type it out and post it in the forum.
Yours as ever
BE

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 06:09:55 PM by Laurie Milton
1/Buy "Pela" type vacuum pump
2/Run engine until warm
3/remove oil as per instructions on pump
4/marvel at the simplicity & cleanliness of it all
5/ replace oil filters( can be left to spring fit out if you rather make a mess then.... after all you've stayed clean so far?
6/refill
7/ turn engine over by hand.
clever bit coming up; a touch of multi tasking....
whilst engine was running to warm up, naturally you were attached/recycling a freshwater supply for cooling.
Gradually increase amounts/replace with antifreeze. Taps open or closed will depend on system.....
8/ clean up 7 gallons of spilt water & 1/2 gallon of antifreeze from bilges. (You did buy that vacuum pump didn't you?)

More seriously, don't forget impellors, fuel separators, fan belts et al. I normally do those in the spring fit out
And get one of those Pela vacuum pumps! More uses than an Ann Summers catalogue!!( so I'm told)

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 07:20:33 PM by jeremy
good tips I think. Any ideas on where to get one of these pumps - is it a car shop sort of thing or more a chandlers? Not sure I understood the freshwater thing. Do you disconnect the sea water inlet then dump the end in a bucket of fresh water? I assume you then add antifreeze to the water?

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 10:17:17 PM by Anonymous
discount chandelry catalogues..... £30
water can do, or recycle from exhaust, or total loss system as I do......

Posted on 23/10/2002 at 09:11:29 AM by Simon Doggett
Disconnect raw water inlet hose at engine end. Fit hose long enough to reach cockpit (unless you really want to mess around in the locker). Bung said hose in bucket continually topped up from shore supply. Start engine and marvel at filthy muck coming out of exhaust. When happy that thermostat has opened (or bored with marvelling) throw goodly quantity of antifreeze in bucket and turn off shore supply. Stop engine before bucket empty.
One of those rare nautical jobs that's simple, satisfying and cheap.
Posted on 24/10/2002 at 08:15:34 PM by Gordon Bellenie
if one removes the thermostat first the
head and block of the engine will be flushed right through with antifreeze and the thermostat can then be tested.

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 01:28:36 PM by Dick Hicks
I am assuming the engine is Raw Water Cooled? If so the preceding advice is valid, if Indirect cooled - ie has a heat exchanger with a sealed engine water system cooled by sea water, then the sealed systaem should already be filled with a 50% antifreeze mixture. For the seawater cooling side, disconnect the hose at the seacock(or the pump and substitute another longish hose, as I do - much easier) put hose in a large bucket of 50% antifreeze mixture, start engine and run until all mixture is sucked up then stop engine. If you are really mean, collect the mixture from the exhaust in another bucket and recycle next year...

41. J27 WINDOW REPLACEMENT
Posted on 22/10/2002 at 01:17:11 PM by John G
i have a 27,bilge keel and the perspex windows are leaky! does anyone have a template for replacements or advice please?

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 05:56:07 PM by Laurie Milton
See suppliers directory.......

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 05:50:13 PM by Gerrit Andela
For what it's worth: I have, had the same problem, the previous owner replaces all the screws en used black "sikaflex" to renew the rubber.
I don't know if there is a more elegant option, but it works!
Good luck, Gerrit

Posted on 22/10/2002 at 10:08:39 PM by Ralph Wilson
Eagle Boat Windows, Skipton did my J25 windows for about £400 as I recall - the most effective £££ ever spent - a dry boat!
New perspex and seals in reconditioned frame

Posted on 25/10/2002 at 10:26:08 AM by Dick Hicks
I did mine about 2 years ago - well actually only 4 of them - the last two to do this winter. Its an easy if time consuming and messy job.
Firstly remove the complete window with the small screws all around; you then will find that the window is in two halves which can be unscrewed - use a good quality screwdriver, then you gradually ease the two frames apart - this must be done carefully so as not to damage the frame; the perspex pane can then be removed and used as a template. I got a piece of Perspex from a local plastic supplier so I had enough to do all 6 windows. Cut the new perspex using the old window as a template and check it fits OK - it must not be a tight fit, about 2mm clearance all round. Make sure the frame is thoroughly cleaned of old adhesive - a long job.
I got all the materials(apart from the perspex) from the local boat window firm as in the suppliers index. The special mastic is then sqirted all round the frame with spacing rubbers to give an even gap both sides, the window inserted and extra mastic used if required - then comes the difficult bit - all the excess mastic must be removed from the perspex with a flexible piece of plastic and Meths. The frames are screwed together again and fully cleaned - leave overnight to cure. I found I could do one window in an evening.
I also was cheeky and asked if I could watch their expert do a window so I knew what to do - obviously I bought all the materials from them after this demo. Also get more 'Interscrews' from them - they come in 2 lengths, for fixing the window frame to the boat. Use plenty of mastic between the frame and the boat and don't overtighten the screws initially. This might require two people as you need to push the frame agaist the GRP to enable the interscrews to screw together. - If I remember all the materials only came to about £50
OR alternatively get a local firm to do them for you!!

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 10:19:32 AM by Steve O'Connell
Is there any reason why laminated glass cannot be used instead of perspex?

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 01:20:12 PM by Dick Hicks
Yes, laminated glass won't bend!! My windows are definately bent; I lao considered glass but dismissed it. When fitting new perspex the frames do straighten and you have to pull the frame back to the cabin side.

Posted on 28/10/2002 at 02:52:17 PM by Steve O'Connell
A good point - one I hadn't considered!

Posted on 4/11/2002 at 09:17:15 PM by Malcolm Sparks
I am also going to replace the windows the winter what sise perspex should i use.

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 07:56:55 AM by Dick Hicks
The original thickness was ¼" thick Perspex, but I believe all you can get nowadays is 6mm thick which is perfectly OK - but check with your local supplier.

Posted on 4/11/2002 at 10:27:49 PM by Laurie Milton
Again see directory, most suppliers, & at least one therein will quote standard thickness'

42. J22 HEADS REPLACEMENT
Posted on 25/10/2002 at 11:53:36 AM by Steve O'Connell
One of the first winter jobs to be done is to replace the 'baby bell' toilet with a porta potti, or similar.
Can anyone give me some advise on filling the resultant hole in - and what pitfalls do I need to be aware of?

Posted on 25/10/2002 at 03:12:29 PM by Laurie Milton
I've lost count of the number of times this has come up on site; there's a fortune to be made(somehow) in old ballhead loos!!
Thoroughly abrade hole & fill with epoxy/glass putty. No pitfalls really, ensure you get a good key on the hole, hence the abrading, & use glass (chop mat) THOROUGHLY wetted. You can do it in layers of cloth & resin, or in one mass, which I would reccommend. A level platform that holds the replacement thunderbox in place will be needed. Ian Buck informs me that Compass sell the sealedbag type. By all accounts, these ars supposed to be pretty good

43. J22 KEEL WINCH
Posted on 31/10/2002 at 03:34:58 PM by Steve O'Connell
Does anyone know or have any ideas re the lifting keel winch - I have to unlock it to use it, wind it up and down as required and only when it's in position relock it.
Surely there must be another way of raising/lowering the keel without me having to poke fingers into the winch to release/engage the pawl? switch. All ideas appreciated!!

Posted on 2/11/2002 at 08:47:48 PM by STEVE EDWARDS
Is it possible that someone has fitted a normal trailer style winch rather than the rather clever clutch arrangement which is the original fitment?

Posted on 4/11/2002 at 08:59:51 AM by Steve O'Connell
Quite possibly - do you know where I might lay my hands on one of the winches with the clever clutch arrangement?

Posted on 2/11/2002 at 04:21:19 PM by Laurie Milton
Sounds like the pawl may need reprofiling?

44. ADVICE ON ELECTRICS REQUIRED PLEASE
Posted on 2/11/2002 at 09:14:41 PM by Paul Mead
I intend to re-organise some of my electrics which will involve extending some of the wiring. Is it best to use connector blocks or spade type connectors - or anything else?

Posted on 2/11/2002 at 10:29:02 PM by Laurie Milton
spade connectors have no place on a boat! Use blocks as few as poss., tin the bare ends, & seal with vaseline or some such.

Posted on 3/11/2002 at 05:30:18 PM by Chris Ure
hi paul the only reliable method is to solder the wires and seal it with heat shrink sleeving , depending on location you could also smear vaseline or tallow over the joint

Posted on 4/11/2002 at 08:21:17 AM by Dick Hicks
Another reliable method is to use crimp type connections using a professional Ratchet hand crimper - not the cheap DIY type you see in some shops. Again can be covered with shrink wrap. For some idea of cost the Ratchet type crimper in the RS catalogue costs from £30 upwards - suitable for Red, Blue and Yellow terminals. Yellow is for up to 0.5mm²; Red for 0.5 to 1.5mm² and Blue for 1.5 to 2.5mm². These will cover most of your requirements. Make sure you use Tinned copper wire to prevent corrosion.

45. J27 DRAINAGE
Posted on 4/11/2002 at 09:32:05 PM by Malcolm Sparks
I have a 2.5 inch diameter drainage hole in the stern locker just above the water line when under power the stern dips and the locker floods up to 6" deep is this a normal feature.

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 11:35:11 AM by Gerrit Andela
I have a simple rubber valve on this hole, it works!

Posted on 4/11/2002 at 10:26:13 PM by Laurie Milton
I've not heard of this as such. However, if it's off to the port side, add some tubing angled a few inches upwards, & you have a gas drain if your gas bottles are situated on the port side of the lazerette. This is the arrangement on my 27, & I have no problems

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 07:54:15 AM by Anonymous
Mine certainly does get water in the lazarette if you motor hard - but not usually a problem as it is self draining - I think! Also all I keep in there is fenders, kedge anchor, bucket and gas bottles.
I have also heard this from another J27 at Felixstowe Ferry and I checked and the drain hole is certainly just below water level if motoring hard. Probably also not helped if you have a lot of crew in the cockpit and heavy stores in the port locker. I have since moved some warps and extra water containers to under the forward berths.

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 09:03:45 AM by Simon Doggett
Strange! Mine (a 1977 model) has two cockpit drains in the sole right aft. These are connected with short length of 1.5" hose through the lazerette to matching skin fittings on the transom. I've recently replaced the hoses as the old ones leaked slightly. I thought that getting water in the lazerette was not only messy, but potentially bad news since it is not sealed from the rest of the hull.

I would suggest you consider plugging the hole or using it as a proper drain (and where are your cockpit drains?)

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 02:52:12 PM by Laurie Milton
This is the norm. By putting a short piece of tube, raised on it (the lazerette drain) you have a dry lazerette, & effective gas drain.
Your c/pit drains are also the norm.

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 01:15:59 PM by Dick Hicks
My J27 - 1974 model, also has 2 drains in the cockpit sole aft, but all they do is drain directly into the lazarette which then drains thro' the large central hole. My lazarette is sealed from the rest of the hull with a glassed in plywood bulkhead immediately at the end of the cockpit sole - presumably so the lazarette is self draining for the Gas bottles.
Mmm - I will look at the possibility of fitting proper drains this winter - certainly a better solution - this may explain the water I get in the bilges for no apparent reason, perhaps my bulkhead is not properly sealed

Posted on 5/11/2002 at 04:27:37 PM by Simon Doggett
And the other possible reason for water in the bilges (in my case) is a persistently dripping stern gland - even when the prop isn't turning. I calculate that if I didn't routinely pump out the bilges, the boat would sink in about three years time!

46. REWIRING THE MAST
Posted on 6/11/2002 at 04:16:23 PM by Steve Alexander
I want to fit new lights and new aerial on the mast of my J25 and am reluctant to use the existing wiring. Does anyone have experience of threading new cable inside the mast?
I imagine that the new can be connected to the old, then pulled through. My concern is that it might jam half way or the join may separate.
Suggestions or tips anyone?

Posted on 6/11/2002 at 09:32:35 PM by Laurie Milton
I have done several mast rewires including my own. If possible do it with the mast down & laid on trestles. Get some cord & cloth duct tape & a good torch & some lengths of insulating foam that plumbers put round pipes.
Attach mouse lines to the cabling (tinned etc) with the duct tape, nice & tapered in the join, & thread up. I suggest placing in the foam tubes first & occasionally binding this with tape. This prevents "frapping" in the mast & allows a quiet nights kip!The torch allows you to see up the mast, those automotive tube lights are very handy because you can get them right inside the mast....

Posted on 7/11/2002 at 12:17:08 AM by marv adkin
Laurie, I think you need to remove the end caps which requires the 6mm pop rivets drilling out ,in order to gain enough access to allow you fit the cable and the foam tubes, but yes it does keep the mast quiet. cheers marv

Posted on 7/11/2002 at 09:19:17 AM by Simon Doggett
My mast was re-wired by the nice chaps at the marina, but they didn't use insulating foam or anything like it as you suggest. Consequently, I've been plagued all season with a constant rattling from the mast. Driving me bonkers!
So, the question is, how do I retrofit insulating foam? The cables (two for wiring plus the VHF) go through a hole at the bottom of the mast which is about five eighths diameter. Is it a case of opening out the hole and re-threading the cables? Or is there a more creative solution? Prize for the best answer!

Posted on 7/11/2002 at 10:30:19 PM by Laurie Milton
See Marvs addendum (remove base, 5 mins), foam tube can be fed up over wires to at least the spreaders, & if the foam is kept in tension in the mast, the result will be the same.

Posted on 6/11/2002 at 10:20:38 PM by Ian Malcolm
If the existing wire has broken, tape a large nail or similar to a mouse line, lift the mast to the vertical and hope! I don't think our new neighbour will readily forget the sight of a J23 mast suddenly, and rather unsteadily, appearing above the garden wall one quiet Saturday afternoon.

Posted on 8/11/2002 at 08:28:43 AM by Dick Hicks
Another way to stop the wires rattling(although I've never done it yet) is to use small electrical ties at about 6" intervals, staggered at 120º to the wire to centralise the wiring. The stiff ties will keep the wiring off the mast side and should be able to be fed through a smallish hole. I would have thought the small 4" ones would be OK. Very cheap if you buy a bundle of 100.
Another point - make sure you use Tinned copper wire of a suitable gauge - I reckon at least 1.5mm² or preferably 2.5mm² to minimise voltage losses. Also make sure you have enough surplus wire at each end to make new terminations in the future.

Posted on 8/11/2002 at 11:22:39 AM by Simon Doggett
Brilliant!! I'm off to get some cable ties. Thanks.

47. J22-KEEL UP
Posted on 7/11/2002 at 05:23:49 PM by Mike
Hi there!
I want to know more about the sailing charakteristik , when the keel is always in upper position?
Because i will sail on an austrian lake, called 'neusiedlersee' and the waterlevel there is very low!

Posted on 7/11/2002 at 10:26:11 PM by Laurie Milton
With the 22, you can, depending on conditions & point of sail, sail with the keel where you like. Obviously with the keel up beating to windward will produce excessive healing and leeway,(but you don't HAVE to have the keel right down ) but offwind with the keel up is fast & directionally stable as the keel lays outside the hull.

48. J25 BILGE KEELS
Posted on 13/11/2002 at 07:47:53 PM by mike
Can someone tell me please how far apart the keels are ie the min and max width of their footprint? I want to know whether a 25 will fit on my trailer built for another bilge keel yacht.

Posted on 14/11/2002 at 09:09:10 PM by Robert Reeves
I've been looking to buy a Jag 25 to. The ruff measurements of the keels that I took where: 63" spread, ie port to starboard and 54" long. Hope this is of some help. Robert

Posted on 15/11/2002 at 03:21:13 PM by Gordon Bellenie
My boat is now on the hard
Front inside is- 163
outside -- 170
Rear inside is- 159
outside-- 167
I hope this is okay for you!.
Gordon

49. SAILSDIRECT.COM – WHO ARE THEY ?
Posted on 19/11/2002 at 08:42:18 AM by Chris Rumbold
Has any one had or heard of Sails Direct(www.sailsdirect.com)? The prices they quote sound to good to be true. They do not appear to do standard genoa's only furling ones. I find it hard to believe the prices of their spinnakers. Comments please

Posted on 19/11/2002 at 08:56:36 AM by Dick Hicks
I also have seen their prices - I believe they are made in Hong Kong or China - but know nothing more than that. No idea what make of material they use or quality - will they give you Tel No,s of satisfied customers so you can ask direct? - and details of material used etc.?

Posted on 25/11/2002 at 04:19:23 PM by Jeremy Knight
I believe they are made by a company called Hong Kong Sails. They fitted out the clipper fleet this year. The sails are quite good, and the service is OK.

50. J21 OUTBOARDS
Posted on 24/11/2002 at 06:09:47 PM by Pete Taylor
I currently have a Mariner 8 which really could do with changing. It is very heavy and probably over powered. Can anybody recommend an alternative. I note that the original bl;urb talks about 4 to 4.5 hp long shaft with larger prop. Any thoughts would be useful.
P.S. Is anybody actively racing a J21 at the moment?

Posted on 24/11/2002 at 07:26:21 PM by Paul
I have a Mariner 5hp two stroke for my J21 (Jasamats) which I believe was supplied with the boat when new. It seems fine - I get 5.5 knots in flat water with no trouble, a bit less if it's lumpy. My only criticisms are that it's a bit noisy and the top of the cowling is wearing a groove in the underside of the tiller!
I do most of my club races and the J21 seems a good boat to race with - we do OK in lighter winds and flatter water, not so well in F5 and a lumpy sea, that's when the heavier deep keel boats have the edge. We race off PY1108 and generally that seems about right. Can't help thinking it would be fun to race against another 21 though!

Posted on 27/11/2002 at 09:44:37 PM by NickJ
I replaced my outboard this year and bought the Mariner 5hp four stroke. It's a fantastic engine, quiet and economical when compared to the old 5HP two stroke. I aslo had an alternator fitted which does a great job of keeping the battery topped up.
I've only just found this site having owned a Jaguar 21 for 4 years now. Is there a rally or aomething? I'd love to look at someone elses Jag for a change to get some ideas!

Posted on 1/12/2002 at 04:14:12 PM by Laurie Milton
Why not join the association, get the full wotsit, magazine/newsletters/directories/technical thingies, etc, etc..
Click on the association tab!!

Posted on 30/11/2002 at 03:31:22 PM by Bernadette
As you have just found this site you could join the association and receive an excellent and infomative newsletter,etc. As for rallies, where do you keep your boat? There were two rallies this year; one east coast and one south coast. We will certainly be having more next season. So join NOW!!!

51. J25 GAS INSTALLATIONS
Posted on 27/11/2002 at 06:35:45 PM by ralph wilson
In my port cockpit locker I have a 12v battery, 2 25litre petrol tanks and a blue gas bottle (7.5kg?) in an unsealed housing. It's something I don't like to think about too much.
Is there anywhere to put the gas bottle that will satisfy the spirit of the current recommendations on gas installations?

Posted on 1/12/2002 at 04:19:09 PM by Anonymous

Another option, one I am seriously considering myself, is to do without gas altogether. I favour the Origo spirit stove, which, bar one or two shortcomings was the testers favourite in a PBO test earlier this year.
I had an Origo in my previous boat, a 22, & it was great.

Posted on 28/11/2002 at 12:40:31 AM by Dick Hicks
The Gas Bottle must definately be in a seperate locker vented overboard! AND I would keep the battery in a different locker/position to thed petrol cans! You have too much Flammable items in the same locker.
Can the battery be repositioned under a bunk internally?
On a previous boat, I made a purpose made 'Box' which I fitted underneath a cockpit seat with a vent from the base to the transom and a round lockable plastic lid. I had to cut a round hole in the seat but it looked OK afterwards - the round lid was a BOMAR, from my local chandlery, not cheap but it was a perfect fit for my Calor gas bottle. The wooden box had a lip all around the top and this was screwed to the underside of the seat with plenty of mastic - effectively hanging from the seat, inside the locker. Not sure wether you could do this on your boat but it may give you some ideas.
You can get a copy of the gas regulations and recommended fitting procedures from Calor Gas.

Posted on 29/11/2002 at 09:54:22 PM by Ralph Wilson
There is already another battery under the steps into the cabin, the domestic loads one, the one at the aft of the port cockpit locker is the starting battery for the electric start outboard. I can't honestly think of another place for the petrol, unless it is kept loose in the cockpit.
I like the sound of your 'box' - theat's the sort of idea I was after.

Posted on 27/11/2002 at 08:09:31 PM by Gordon Bellenie
In my starboard locker the privious owner had shaped the locker to take the gas bottle and it only intrudes into the quarter berth about eight inches,I think it is very save. Being an Fireman!!.

Posted on 29/11/2002 at 09:55:28 PM by Ralph Wilson
Is your bottle calor gas or camping gas ? Thanks for the reply

Posted on 19/12/2002 at 03:39:41 PM by Tony James
Ralph.In your port locker you have all the makings of a disaster waiting to happen. Plenty of fuel and a source of ignition- especially when you disconnect the battery.Do you have charging apparatus in there as well ? if so you could well have a source of heat and/or potentially sparking equipment ( in a fault condition ).
The difficulty is how to proceed without seeing the installation. I suggest removing all the fuel and gas first and allow any fumes or gas to dissipate before attempting to disconnect the battery.( but take expert advice ) Then re-site the battery and get a qualified surveyor to advise on fuel storage and battery installation.

Posted on 19/12/2002 at 07:58:16 PM by Colin Bishop
Posibly slightly off the subject but may be of interest. I have an Oriogo twin burner meths stove in my J25 which I find perfectly adequate - but then we do tend to head for the nearest pub most nights for personal refuelling. When in more isolated locations it is fine for preparing a larger meal using tinned curry or goulash plus rice etc. One thing you do need to be careful of is that if you don't close the stove properly so it latches, the flames can come out the front and melt the control knobs - it happened to me! I also have a couple of 4 inch diameter covers (made from builder's dpc polythene membrane) which I use to cover the fuel drums when not in use. It helps stop the meths slowly evaporating.
As far as fuel is concerned, I have a Yamaha 9.9 outboard hung on the back. Up until last year I had the standard 3 gallon fuel tank sitting in the cockpit locker with a spare one buried down below. This didn't quite give peace of mind when motoring from Chichester to Yarmouth in a calm and I was always left wondering whether to change tanks just before entering harbour. It isn't aways easy to get hold of petrol in some ports either, necessitating a long walk to the nearest garage who may now refuse to let you fill a plastic tank. I have now got a six gallon tank which sits in a specially made box at the aft end of the cockpit under the tiller. This give 10+ hours of motoring and the box is a convenient seat at support as well not to mention that any fume leakage can find its way out through the cockpit drains instead of accumulating in the bottom of the boat.
The dinghy outboard is a Honda 4 stroke so both engines can use the same fuel.

52. CATHODIC PROTECTION
Posted on 4/12/2002 at 11:46:46 AM by Steve O'Connell
As an electrical challenged person I am intending to add to the normal navigation/internal lights
with VHF, GPS, Radio Cassettte, wind instruments and tiller pilot. I have steel bilge plates fitted to my Jag 22 and am wondering if I need to fit anodes, and how/where to fit it/them.

Posted on 4/12/2002 at 09:49:55 PM by Laurie Milton
STEEL bilge plates? Normally they are GRP........
However on what you have said, & I assume you're using an outboard, there is nothing (someone correct me if I'm wrong!)particular to worry about, save perhaps a sacrificial (aren't they all....well, yes) anode on each keel. There is nothing to be electrically bonded, as there are no drive shafts or such through hull fittings to worry about.
(Tear drop shape, bolted, blunt ends forward)

Posted on 5/12/2002 at 08:24:29 AM by Dick Hicks
Assuming you are outboard powered, and you have a Bronze/Gunmetal sink hull outlet?(assuming its below the waterline) then you shouldn't even need any anodes. Also make sure you use correct sized TINNED electrical cable with an Isolation switch you will be OK.

53. J25 WINDOW POPPING!
Posted on 7/12/2002 at 05:09:49 PM by Paul Mead
I've decided to renew some windows this year.
Having removed some external screws I didn't exactly expect it to fall out but it still seems extremely well fixed despite some firm pushes.
Does anyone know if I am missing a trick.

Posted on 9/12/2002 at 04:17:37 PM by Dick Hicks
If it's anything like my J27, it was quite difficult to remove the frames - it was well stuck in with mastic and If I remember I had to gently lever it all around and it & ease it off - can't remember the exact tool I used but go easy as it is very easy to damage the frame. The same for the inner frame. Make sure you remove all the screws ( and get some spares as some of mine had gone) - They are called 'INTERSCREWS' and you can get them from window suppliers & Baseline Ltd.

Posted on 14/12/2002 at 10:13:51 PM by Ralph Wilson
I used a flexible disposable knife with a long-ish blade (sold in the chandlers) to break the seal of the old sealant. Once you've done this then it will come out more easily, although be careful not to bend the aluminium frames too much

54. BUKH 10 OIL FILTER
Posted on 22/12/2002 at 10:17:11 AM by mark
Does anybody know what, or if, standard car oil filter may be used upon the Bukh 10 engine? The bukh filter is very expensive. I bet a Halfords part would do just as well.....

Posted on 22/12/2002 at 11:44:56 AM by Dick Hicks
Try getting your next one from www.asap-supplies.com together with the fuel filter(s) who will be cheaper than Bukh branded ones but will be from Fram, Purolator or some other branded filter. Then go to your local car accessory shop and ask for their equivalent. BUT be careful - there are some very cheap ones on the market which at a glance look like branded products(same colour packet; same type face but slightly different name...)and are usually made in china or some obscure place.
As long as you stick with well known names you won't go wrong. All the engine manufacturers buy their filters from well known filter companies but with their own name on it.
Another alternative may be to take your old one to the shop and see if they can identify it - but could be a bit messy!!

55. UNIDENTIFIED TANK
Posted on 25/12/2002 at 05:47:31 AM by mark travella
I have found a large tank containing a dirty liquid under the cockpit on the portside on my jaguar 25. The tank looks as if it was installed when the boat was built and has an opening glassed into the hull to the rear allowing free movement of air and liquid in and out of the tank.Does anyone know what it is for?

Posted on 30/12/2002 at 11:45:34 AM by Jeremy Knight
I assume that the opening you are referring to is an outlet. Silly question but does it have an inlet, and if so are you able to trace the inlet pipe through to somewhere. I guess your fuel tank would be in the cockpit, but if this tank contains dirty liquid lets hope its not for the fuel!!! Besides, why would it have a sea out/inlet.
I guess it may be a holding tank (in which case the flithy liquid would definitely not be for drinking!).
Could it be some kind of header tank? Probably not because there would be no need for a sea outlet. Besides, raw water cooling would seem to be more likely on an engine in a 25' boat.
If there is no inlet, just the seawater outlet, then maybe its just a self draining locker, perhaps for gas at some point.
A bit of a festive mistery.

Posted on 29/12/2002 at 11:07:24 PM by Richard Green
what did it taste of?

56. J22 ADVICE ON BUYING / CHECKING THE KEEL
Posted on 31/12/2002 at 10:21:11 AM by Mike Greener
I am just in the process of buying a Jaguar 22. It requires a little cosmetic work but appears sound. The boat has a couple of bilge support plates fitted to help the boat when drying out which I have been assured were factory fitted by Jaguar. Is there anything I should specifically look out for before completing the purchase especially around the keel

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 12:30:21 AM by Laurie Milton
Welcome to the JOA site!
Yes there is, go to the 22 page on site, & see the articles on keel replacement.
By now most keels will have wear in the pivot hole, & this will need checking, as will the wire/plait strop that lifts it, & the connection to the keel. Some keels have a lock down facility, but by no means all.
The glass fibre plates to which you refer ( again see J22 pages on site) were often fitted, indeed my 22 had them. They can if you wish be cut off & ground back. Nomally these were just bonded on, but I have come across a couple of boats where they were bolted to the hull.
(One of the earlier editions of the assoc. magazine, SEACATS, was dedicated to the 22, & manuals for this boat are available FOC (ex £1 post), to members.)
If you have any queries don't hesitate to ask.

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 01:17:03 PM by steve edwards
I have a Video produced by Catalina from the foredeck, which details removal and refurbishing the keel & attachments. It includes details of a trolley to remove the keel & from memory a paper template. Free loan to anyone whose's interested.

Posted on 2/1/2003 at 10:04:14 AM by Steve O'Connell
I currently have my J22 out of the water and checking the keel is one of the jobs I have to do. I would certainly be interested in taking you up on your kind offer.
Please call me at work on 01268 402768 to arrange postage and packing etc.

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 06:30:41 PM by Laurie Milton
I hope Mr Greener sees your offer; that is very generous, thank you.

Posted on 5/1/2003 at 08:54:16 PM by Mike Greener
Many thanks for your offer, I will certainly check the keel bolts before it goes into the water in April

Posted on 7/1/2003 at 04:58:00 PM by Steve Edwards
Mike
Have sent the video to Steve O'Connell (See reply above yours) If you get in touch with him I am quite happy for him to send it on direct to you once he is finished with it. Just keep me up to date, via the site or Email where it currently lives
Regards
Steve Edwards.

57. J22 FIXED FIN KEEL
Posted on 1/1/2003 at 01:02:17 PM by Ian Buck
Am I the only person with a fin keel Jag 22? If so is it more likely my boat has been through an identity crisis and is actually a Catalina, how do I tell one way or the other?

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 04:02:12 PM by Laurie
Catalina, did offer a fixed fin keel variant, whereas CYB (to my knowledge, which as you know is a bit "iffy")did not.
Clues, although not definitive would be the positioning of navigation lights, pop top? or date of manufacture.....
We also have what may be a unique J23 in the assoc., possibly as manufactured by Jaguar (Thistle Dubh). My 27 is so far the only 27 I've found with such a rudder, as built from new; but the hull was not moulded by CYB......so there are some "one offs", if that is what they are, around.

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 04:37:41 PM by Ian Buck
Purported date of manufacture is 1978, no pop top, where should the nav lights be? Maybe it would be worth contacting CYB?

Posted on 1/1/2003 at 06:27:44 PM by Laurie Milton
No pop top & date sound CYB, unless someone has bought in a Catalina. Jag Nav lights are one the pulpit, whilst Cat. ones are on the coachroof sides although some are on the bows, faired in.
CYB have never replied to any of my correspondence, so I wish you better luck; maybe it's my soap......?

58. J22 BOOM VANG
Posted on 2/1/2003 at 10:06:33 AM by Steve O'Connell
I have just realised that the J22 is shown as having a boom vang - mine doesn't.
Can anybody advise of a DIY version or alternatively, where I can acquire one!

Posted on 3/1/2003 at 11:42:16 AM by Laurie
Most of the manufacturers offer one, I had a test in one of the mags., I'll see if I can find it.
However, the Barton boomstrut (website on suppliers directory) is proving very popular on smaller boats......

59. J27 ENGINE COOLING WATER INLET
Posted on 2/1/2003 at 01:58:30 PM by Stuart Wartalski
Can someone please give me advice on how to replace the engine cooling water inlet grill on my J27. It is covered in anti-foul and I can't see if there are any screws??? Also, where do I get a new one from??? Thanks

Posted on 3/1/2003 at 07:58:52 AM by Dick Hicks
Stuart,
These usually have screws holding them on - give it a good scrape and you will probably find 3 or 4 screws/bolts holding it on, with the nuts on the inside OR another sort just have 3 or 4 small screws just screwed into the hull - OR yet another type is all integral with the thro' hull fitting, ie you have to remove the complete fitting and the grill is all part of it.
I've just looked in the ASAP Supplies catalogue - Tel No 0845 1300870 and they supply this sort(called 'scoop through hull fittings') as well as gratings for screwing on(usually fitted on wooden boats).
My J27 just has a normal thro' hull skin fitting, with a ball valve screwed on with a large water filter fitted internally.
Any reputable chandler should be able to get you a replacement one, but make sure it is goood quality, NOT BRASS, or try ASAP Supplies as above.

60. J27 CIRCUMNAVIGATES THE WORLD / HULL BALANCE
Posted on 11/1/2003 at 10:47:41 AM by Jeremy Knight
Just been doing a little reading, as you do in the Winter when its too parky to sail. Came across a interesting little piece of history.
Patrick Childress made a 2 1/2 year circumnavigation in a catalina 27 called juggernaught in 1982. Richard henderson in "single handed sailing" says "(The catalaina 27) is quite easily single handed, readily available and offers more boat for the money than almost any other I know. ... Advantages for coastal singlehanding include a buoyant hull with modestly high freeboard, a failry long fin, swept forefoot, good hull ballance, maneurverability and a simple rig. Disadvantages include light construcion, accomodation that is best suited to harbour living, and a raked spade rudder that makes the helm a little quick for singlehanding."
Not a bad write up I would say although i am not sure i would agree about the balance.
For those of you who are interested a picture of Mr Childress is included. I happen to also have his e-mail. Laurie - do you think it would be worth asking him to do a short piece for the magazine? Let me know your thoughts.

Posted on 11/1/2003 at 12:36:49 AM by laurie
As those that know me , know; my thoughts are very simple! And they are here, YES!!!PLEASE!!!
I'd love to know where you read this?
The only other endeavour of which I know, is the twin keeled 27 "Pyewacket" which successfully completed on of the last AZAB races run, 4 or 5 years ago!
Whats this about hull balance, don't you think so? "Sunbird" an be sailed to windward for extended periods without anyone on the tiller, I've always thought of this as a 27 strongpoint?

Posted on 12/1/2003 at 11:16:19 AM by jeremy knight
I find that Barcarole suffers from a modest amount of variable weatherhelm. It can easily be corrected by a reef in the main or rolling up the genny a bit. I have also had the rake of the mast moved a little towards the end of last season, but havn't established wether this has helped at all yet. I know that Islay miss also had the same issue and her parents were thinking of changing her rudder to the transom mounted variety partly as a result of it ( the idea being that this would mver the CLR back a little). I wonder how other 27 owners fair.
I will contact our man and see if he has any spare time to pen a little ditty for us.

Posted on 13/1/2003 at 10:04:53 AM by Dick Hicks
It is important to get the sail trim correct and as you say, once the wind gets up a reef in the main or a few rolls in the genoa makes a lot of difference. I regularly sail in company with a Contessa 28 and he always sails on its ear & reefs much later than me, with the result I sail faster than him.(which really annoys him - I just say its because the J27 is superior - and of course has a superb helmsman!) Whether this will continue I don't know - he's getting a new genoa this year... from Kemps, incidently, we visited them at the LBS and they seemed to be very knowledgable, reasonably priced, so after haggling on the price he got the order.
On the Catalina site, some owners have fitted a different rudder, which is a fairly deep, more vertical rudder without any rake and this is apparently much better.

61. GENOA SHEETING
Posted on 11/1/2003 at 08:30:00 PM by Steve Edwards
Evening all
Been reading lots of articles re sail handling. Everyone talks about inboard tracks for Genoa sheets to flatten the sail and de-power/point higher. Anyone tried this, or are the side decks so narrow just leading the sheets inboard of the guard rails has the same effect?

Posted on 12/1/2003 at 11:34:12 AM by jeremy Knight
You would hope the builder would have set up the leads for optimum performance. However all too often they are set where it is easiest to mount the tracks. Add to this that you have probably changes sails, and therefore cut, since the boat was built and there is a good chance that you may benefit from altering the athwartships angling. Note however that the maximum benefit from sheet angling you can get is to get the forward/aft position right. This controls twist more than anything, and the easiest way to check this is to fit 3/4 tell tails on the gennoa at various heights. Sailing Today are giving free tell tails away this month if you want some! If the top windward tell tails fall first then you have too much twist. In this case move the car forward a little. The converse is if the top lee tell tail falls first, move the car back.
A simple alternative to twin tracks, or moving the tacks, you could try is to rig the sheets inside the rails and then set up a "barber hauler" to move the sheeting angle inwards. In essence a hauler is just a line with a block on the end. Pass the sheet throught the block then tie of the other end inboard, say to the base of the mast. Tie it off to bring the angle in about 6-8 inches. Sheet in, and hey presto you should have a tighter angle. This would give you a cheap and quick way of deciding if there is any benefit.
One of the benefits as you rightly say is a flatter sail. But the main benefit comes from the fact that you are closing the gap between the headsail and the main. This increases the "venturi effect" (probably mis-spelt) ie the accelleration of the wind in the gap. As such you should create a greater compression of air on the lee of the main and therefore more main power. This in turn MAY improve upwind performance. Wether it does or not is a balance between wether the increased main power out weighs the increase in weather helm you might experience. You may also find that you compress the flow too much, in which case it will make the forward part of the main curl up to windward. Too much of this (just a little is ideal to show you are getting compression)would be likely to negate any benefits you have gained. It is likely that you would find that the benefit differs in various wind strengths as well. All in all, one to experiment with (without spending too much money).
Hope this helps and is not too confusing.

Posted on 12/1/2003 at 04:58:55 AM by Chris Rumbold
I have moved my sheet tracks inboard of the guard rail on my J22. This has put them about 6" inboard from their original position. This has improved the pointing ability considerably. Best enhancement I have done to my J22. They are about 3' long and the aft end of the track is approx six inches from the winch even with 150% genoa I can flatten it very well when necessary.

Posted on 13/1/2003 at 04:59:25 AM by Chris Rumbold
I agree with Jeremy it will make the mainsail curl to windward. This can be overcome by adjustment of the main sheet and boom position. Getting the slot correct between main and Genoa has always been critical to get best performance. The curling of the main is only noticed when I am using 150% genny. With the 100%er up it does not seem to affect the main very much at all.. Being able to flatten the genny more with the new track positions when beating make a huge difference even though sail trimming is a finer art. I race my J22 regularly and have noticed a considerable improvement beating when trying to lay a mark. I can email you a photograph of my new track position if yoou pass me your email address.

62. J27 NAVIGATION / CHART TABLE
Posted on 16/1/2003 at 00:15:01 AM by peter fairhead
Hello all..er how do you lot navigate your J27's??? Is it me? but all the J27 pics and interior shots I have seen do not show a chart table. I realise that you have a dinning table, but isn’t that a bit uncomfortable and inconvenient? Also if you are using the dinning table where do you have your instruments? (no rude comments please)

Posted on 16/1/2003 at 09:09:58 PM by Colin Bishop
I've got a J25 but the situation sounds similar. We use the saloon table for navigation while under way. Drawing board clips secure the charts. Dining is done in harbour, in the Solent it usually consists of finding the nearest pub although I have been known to whip up a wicked tinned casserole round the back of Brownsea Island in Poole Harbour.
I have contructed a shallow drawer which is fixed to the underside of the saloon table and which holds charts, dividers and other navigational items. You need to get the size just right though so that the table can still drop down between the seats to make up the king size berth which I, as owner use by right at night! The crew is banished to the quarterberth which is actually quite comfortable, especially when not shared with the dinghy. (I have the outboard version).

Posted on 16/1/2003 at 11:07:09 PM by Laurie Milton
Peter, if you look at the piccies page on the 27 pages on site you will see exactly what Colin is on about, and as such is probably one of the best chart tables available on a sub 30' boat anywhere. I use a Yeoman which can be strapped to the table if very rough & /or bought in to the cockpit. The dinette table allows use as a chart table, forward/aft or side on; can't ask for more! A GPS (to be replaced) is seen in the photos outboard on the shelf.
Other instruments are on a pod on the sliding hatch. My sprayhood has the front window which can be zipped up, allowing the hatch & instrument binnacle to be fully forward or not, as wished........

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 07:50:57 AM by Dick Hicks
Peter, as said, I use the table - very convenient, charts clipped to the table, chart instruments in the locker above the table. Additional bits & bobs in a shallow tray with some of that non-slip mat underneath. OK, occasionally some will end up on the floor if you hit rough weather, but on the whole it works well. All instrument repeaters, VHF & GPS on bulkhead nearby.
For close quarter pilotage from the cockpit, I clip a chart to a plywood board or on the washboard.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 01:54:08 PM by Jeremy Knight
Whats all this about dining tables. In Barcarole, what you refer to as a dining table is in fact called the nav station.
You should ask "what do you all do about eating when there is no dining table". If there is serious eating to be done, it is done out of a dogs bowl. This may sound strange, but in fact is a superb idea. If you use plates then I find your hard tack slips off the side as the boat rolls. With a dogs bowl it all stays put.
As to where to store the instruments. Well I'm a traditionalist at heart, so I keep my lead line tied to the rail and my sextant in its case in a locker! If I need to know my speed for dead reckoning I have a look over the side and see how fast we are going. If I want a really accurate measurement then I have a rope with specially spaced knots. I simply tie it to the cabin boy, throw him over the side, and count the number of knots to pay out in 15 seconds - hence 5 knots or what ever speed we are doing.
Going across the chanel I always try to follow a ferry.
Never been lost yet. Well not very lost anyway.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 06:48:39 PM by laurie
Believe me........you are....
or something!

63. J27 COCKPIT DRAINS
Posted on 17/1/2003 at 10:31:44 AM by Dick Hicks
My J27 has two drain holes right aft in the corners of the cockpit which drain straight into the lazarette and then out through the larger central hole.
I would like to fit proper piped drains to the transom. My problem is that the holes in the cockpit are right in the corner so it is impossible to fit a normal metal drain as you would have to cut away half of the flange and of course the flange would still be upstanding and all the water won't drain away. The holes in the cockpit are Ø1 7/8"(48mm) so are clearance for 1½"BSP.
My thoughts are :-
1) A purpose made or modified 1½" hosetail for the cockpit, glassed in position so it is flush to underflush in the cockpit.
2) A purpose made or modified bronze/brass 1½" hosetail with a loose ring behind the hexagon, so I can drill 3 countersunk holes thro' the cockpit & ring and clamp up, using say M4 screws & nuts with mastic.
1st option is messy, difficult to get at for glassing, but fairly cheap; but could fail if knocked in the lazarette.
2nd option would be more expensive but everything would be clamped, easier to repair if damaged.
I intend using 1½"BSP male 90º hosetail in the cockpit & 1½" hosetail skin fitting in the transom. These bends only seem to be available in Gunmetal(ASAP Supplies)& are £15 ea! Any one know of say Brass ones? Galvanic action should not be a problem - I don't want to use plastic as they break(I know!).
Any other suggestions welcome.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 10:49:42 AM by Ian Buck
I would glass in a couple of small pieces of rigid plastic pipe so you can attach flexible pipe and run these to the skin fittings.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 11:15:21 AM by Dick Hicks
Ian, I have suggested using 90º bends as I only have about 4" between the bottom of the cockpit and the floor in the lazarette. With a straight pipe and the bend radius required on 1½" hose there will not be enough room.
I'm going to Fox's after work to see what they have.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 03:40:26 PM by Jeremy Knight
I'm probably being slow. But why change it? I've got the arangement you describe on my J27 and don't think I've had any probs. Its obviously give you grief, but I'd be interested to know what the prob is. Maybe I am suffering as well but just don't know!!

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 10:07:50 AM by Dick Hicks
Jeremy, I decided to change it as I didn't like the idea of the water just draining thro' instead of dedicated drain hoses. I do have the bulkhead in the lazarette, but suspect I still get water in the bilges from this route. Certainly when under power the stern squats and the large central draining hole is under water. The central hole I would also like to block off but then I won't have a gas drain!
After all the replies I'm now ubdecided - I might just leave it for another season and then have another think...

Posted on 18/1/2003 at 10:21:46 AM by Simon Doggett
I think it's because on some J27s the lazerette is open to the rest of the boat (it is on mine). On others, there is a bulkhead sealing it off (I think). If so, I guess it's reasonably safe to let the cockpit drain through the locker.

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 06:50:42 PM by laurie
-or come to Mersea if you want a look?

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 10:09:47 AM by Dick Hicks
Laurie, I might take you up on your offer of visiting your boat at W Mersea to see your arrangement - whereabouts is your boat laid up?

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 05:15:23 PM by laurie
Will email you.........

64. TIP OF THE MONTH
Posted on 17/1/2003 at 02:06:57 PM by Jeremy Knight
I read this wonderful tip in a yachting paper. On the face of it I thought they were taking the proverbial. However, I waited for my wife to go out for the evening, got my wellys and oilskins out and had a go. It works!!
The scenario is that its a fine day, but a little cloudy. All of a sudden you feel a drop of rain on your cheek. You rush to put your oily bottoms on. Then the comedy act begins - trying to squeeze the legs of the oilies over your shoes or boots. After all we're all too lazy to take our shoes off aren't we.
The solution is in your gash bag. Just put a couple of plastic bags over your shoes and hey presto the oiles slip on just fine. Not only that but you still look silly to onlookers with these two bags on your feet. So the onlooks have all the comedy fun but without you suffering the exahusting tugging on your oilies.
Of course you could just take your shoes off, but wheres the fun in that!

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 06:55:09 PM by laurie
What are shoes?

Posted on 17/1/2003 at 07:40:06 PM by Colin Bishop
They're the things some people put on the bottom of their bilge keels to stop them getting scratched when you run aground. Never been able to find the right size in Clarks though...

Posted on 18/1/2003 at 06:43:29 PM by Laurie Milton
...aaah! That makes sense then, to put your keels in polythene bags, & save on the antifoul. No wonder you can't get them in Clarks then, my local council deliver them. Must be sailing folk.....

Posted on 18/1/2003 at 10:17:43 AM by Simon Doggett
How irresponsible of Jeremy to suggest this tip without also giving a safety warning, i.e. do not try this at the other end. Putting bags on your head is dangerous (it makes it difficult to see where you're going).

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 04:33:24 PM by Laurie Milton
I knew those black bags the council leave would let me down!

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 08:54:33 PM by Colin Bishop
What a brillant Idea! Next time I pass Cowes on a summer Saturday afternoon I'll just set the autopilot, put the black bag on and greatly reduce the usual risk of a heart attack!

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 11:39:22 AM by Steve O'Connell
If the truth be known I don't think that this is really about oilies and rain!!
Must be the bags doing it everytime!

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 05:14:24 PM by laurie
MMMM......."Oilies"...aren't those the pilots of 30Kn ginpalaces....?
I must admit, sticking my head in a polythene bag & breathing deeply does it for me.....!

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 01:43:06 PM by Jeremy Knight
You will find it improved things greatly if you mix 1 part epoxy putty with 2 parts of awlgrip paint stipper, and put this in the bag before you stick your head in and breath deeply.
Given the comments about my irresponsibility in publishing the original "tip of the month", I feel I should point out that you should not try this at home with out the permission of your parents.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 08:35:12 PM by Colin Bishop
So it WAS you we nearly hit last Summer!

65. J22 SLAB REEFING
Posted on 19/1/2003 at 05:36:11 AM by Chris Rumbold
HELP!! Please. Has anyone fitted slab reefing to the mainsil on a J22. I ordered my new main with one slab in it but todate I have not worked how to sort out the gooseneck so as to fit the hook on the boom. I have roller reefing on the boom and it is unreliable, the latching mechanism on the goose neck does not always hold and hence the mainsail unrolls. Not a good thing to happen in a strong blow. Had to abhort a race last Friday because of this problem. Winds were 20-25K with gust that reached 35k.
My main question is how did you fit the hooks at on or near the gooseneck to secure the main? The out haul is not a problem I can sort that out but I am worried about strength etc. of the boom/gooseneck if I drill right through to fit the hooks. Any help will be much appreciated.

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 09:01:29 PM by Colin Bishop
Having got in mast reefing on my J25 I don't have this problem but from what I have seen on other boats you may need to have a small plate, shaped to the curve of the mast fabricated, to which the hook is welded. The plate can then be rivetted to the mast which should distribute the stresses. If you are based in a Marina, have a look at the other boats to see what arrangements they have made.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 11:37:26 PM by steve edwards
Colin & Chistine
The hook or rams horns should, I believe, be attached to the boom so that when you tension the kicking strap/vang the force is directed to the luff of the mainsail.(You can tell I have been reading and know all the terms even if I can't sail for SXXt). Mine is attached around the area of the gooseneck. If someone hasn't come up with a better description before I next visit T Bag I will check how the attachment is made & report back.
Looking at Laurie's web site & the level of my mails do I need a life? or have I found one?

66. J22 DESIGN
Posted on 19/1/2003 at 09:23:43 PM by Christine
Is the last message on this board really April last year, or is my computer playing up?
Also would I be right in thinking my J22 is the odd one out in the Jaguar family of boats, being designed by a completly different company and only made under licence by Jaguar boats?
Only wondering.

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 10:47:23 PM by Laurie Milton
No.........& yes. he simplest answer would be to click on the 22 page on site; but in a nutshell, the 22, 25, 27 were Frank Butler designs for the Catalina stable in America ( he still designs for Catalina), the boats were manufactured under licence by Eric Birch Yacht builders, & marketed as Jaguar in the UK & Europe. The Jaguar range under Eric's auspices, as there is now a new company, Jaguar Yachts Ltd, include the Catalina boats, the 21 & 23, designed by John Mullins & the 24 & 265 by Tony Castro. The last 4 were designed specifically for Jaguar......
This is why the model "tabs" are on site, most of this data is listed under or for each boat in the range. Hope this helps.

67. J22 FOREHATCH
Posted on 19/1/2003 at 09:36:09 PM by Christine
Cor blimey, in answer to my previous question, yes there are some messages since April! Don't know why I couldn't view them until I had sent a message in though. Anyway after a read through I was interested in the little chat some of you have had about foredeck hatches, so as the hole in the deck is not a standard 500 x 500 which houdini (?) did you use Laurie, and how is the mount working with snagging lines ect.

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 10:51:48 PM by Laurie Milton
The cheapest most basic one; this is going back a few years! An Aforomosia?/hardwood surround was made, & it was the best thing I did, as it sat no higher than the old glassfibre lid, & let light flood below. It didn't foul anything. Not all 22s had foredeck hatches, consequently there may be some variance in sizes

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 08:19:29 PM by Christine
Hi again Laurie
It sounds just the jobbie, can you send a piccie? I spoke to Eric who now does GRP guttering, and he said I could cut the deck to enlarge the forehatch but it would be a bugger to do so the best bet sounds like your method.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 10:45:56 PM by Laurie Milton
You may have to, depending on the size of your hatch. I've no piccies of Kestrel, my 22; that was 6/7 yrs ago, but I'll see if I can dig out some Houdini ads/piccies......

68. J22 HEATING
Posted on 19/1/2003 at 09:38:04 PM by Christine
What is the most economical way of heating the cabin? Would electic with own battery and generating system be viable, or would I be better off with one of those portable catalytic gas heaters. Don't say rough it, I have 1year old twins who don't like the cold.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 00:19:50 AM by Paul
Pumkin Marine do a self contained portable gas heater that runs off disposable butane cartridges, "safe flameless heating" it says, all for £69.95.
Looks a bit like those self contained single burner cookers that come in a tin.
Pumpkin are on 0845 6016090

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 08:16:45 PM by Christine
Hi Paul, this sounds like a viable option, I think I use the same canisters for my stove, so am very interested in the heater. Will be giving Pumkin a call. Has anyone used these heaters? Are they effective? What about condesation?

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 05:10:45 PM by Laurie Milton
....sounds good to me.....I just might have a look meself......

Posted on 19/1/2003 at 10:56:58 PM by Laurie Milton
If you haven't already got gas onboard, I would be very reluctant to install it now; but as diesel I assume is not an option, & charging from an outboard will probably rule out electric, gas may be your best bet. Sailing Today mag., recently did a comparative test on cabin heaters.......

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 08:14:51 PM by christine
All the sailing mags do comparative tests on cabin heaters, but they all seem to be in the £800 or above range for diesel hot air blowers. I only want something small and cheap. Anyone tried the gas heater using portable canisters? I use the cannisters for my stove so this could be an option.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 08:32:49 PM by Colin Bishop
I have been wondering about this for my J25. However, I believe that even with a catalytic type heater you still need good ventilation and the combustion products are still likely to cause condensation. To get genuine dry heat you either need an electric heater and a marina power point or some form of flue based heater where the combustion products are exhausted to the exterior. Generally there isn't much room for these on smaller boats and you are looking at a fairly high cost. Carbon monoxide buildup in a small boat cabin can be insidious and fatal, that's why most cheaper heaters come with a ventilation health warning. Anyone ho can come up with a cheap, safe, non electric heater for small boats will make a fortune. So far, nobody has.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 10:17:37 PM by Ian Buck
I would be interested to see how this pans out, I have an alcohol/meths stove which I find is good for heat too, I've seen a small free standing Origo portable stove which is supposed to be good as a heater as well, anyone tried one? I have an aversion to gas on boats although I have nothing to base that aversion on.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 10:43:14 PM by Laurie Milton
Im keen on these Origo stoves having had one on my 22, & am considering taking my gas out of the 27 & retrofitting a meths stove.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 11:48:10 AM by Jeremy Knight
There are many advantages with Meths. A recent copy of Practical Boat Owner )or maybe it was sailing today) highlighted a number of them, and made very interesting reading. However the really key benefit is that if you have a meths cooker then it also means you've got something to drink when the rum runs out. They didn't mention that one in PBO.

Posted on 20/1/2003 at 11:47:29 PM by Colin Bishop
I have a twin burner Origo stove on my J25 for cooking and it does the business fine. It's a lot safer than gas, if a bit slower. The meths does however give off rather smelly fumes so the companionway is best left open. I'm not sure I'd want to use it as a heater. I find a bottle of whisky followed by the sleeping bag works pretty well from late April onwards.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 09:17:48 PM by Christine
The whisky idea sounds fine for my husband and myself, not sure about the 1 year old twins though. Mind you, I bet they'd sleep well!

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 08:09:12 AM by Dick Hicks
You should not use the freestanding catalytic or gas heaters, they give off loads of water vapour and therefore condensation. Plus of course there is a real danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning.
The only safe heating is either electric from a Marina supply or blown hot air, either Diesel or Gas(Propane) fuelled. The problem on a J22 is finding a place for the heater unit. For Gas the PROPEX ones came out well in a recent Sailing Today test, about £550 ea. but more expensive to run than diesel, which were about £800+. You need to use Propane rather than Butane as it won't freeze at lower temperatures. Both of these do have vented exhaust outlets so no danger of CO poisoning.
OR a small charcoal or solid fuel burner with again a vented exhaust, but both potentially dirty. These you could pick up much cheaper.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 09:18:54 PM by Christine
So for a low cost, compact heater I'm buggered basically?

Posted on 22/1/2003 at 01:07:07 PM by Dick Hicks
You could try the carcoal heater - BENGCO is the name I think - about £350?
- sorry, don't know who supplies them.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 09:59:02 PM by Colin Bishop
That's about the truth of it. Would that it were otherwise!

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 10:16:51 PM by laurie
...I may not have put it thus......

Posted on 24/1/2003 at 08:40:26 PM by Christine
But where would I put it? Polite answers only please.

Posted on 24/1/2003 at 08:41:46 PM by Christine
Sorry if I offended Laurie.

Posted on 26/1/2003 at 05:29:19 PM by Laurie
WHAT!!!?? HOW? WHO? WHEN? WHY? WHERE? Have I missed something? I often do..... Seriously, no; & I don't why you would think otherwise......?

Posted on 28/1/2003 at 09:42:20 PM by Christine
Thats ok then, don't forget that houdini hatch, but they seem to be around the 152 mark at present. Am I thinking of the right hatch?

Posted on 28/1/2003 at 10:06:15 PM by Laurie
Sounds about right... has bars going across it.....it won't stop the curtains catching alight though.....
I might post an old Cruisermart catalogue to you with it highlighted?

Posted on 30/1/2003 at 08:05:55 PM by Christine
Please do! Speak to you later with my next query, (I have loads!)

Posted on 30/1/2003 at 09:21:26 PM by Laurie Milton
£149.95,for the houdini. lewmar have also brought out a cheaper (for them!) flush model. Give me a few days, I'm a bit buried in the brown stuff at the moment!!

69. J22 CONTROLS LED BACK
Posted on 21/1/2003 at 09:23:38 PM by Christine
As we sail with 1 year old twins (I've probably mentioned that already!) I'm looking to lead all controls back to the cockpit. I have a problem with reefing due to the slugs(?) coming out of a channel in the mast. Also on my current main sail there is no rams horn, should I have one? It's a bugger tying down a reef at present. Any tips would be most appreciated

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 11:41:00 PM by paul
I have single line reefing on my J21 and it's a cinch to reef - takes no more than 20 seconds start to finish. (It takes a bit longer to unreef due to the friction in rather a long bit of rope - someone has to go to the mast and help it on its way - but hey, that's not so important, it won't be windy then). The secret seems to be that for each reef there is an arrangement of 2 blocks back-to-back that move the length of, and inside, the boom. Something similar was in PBO a year or so ago.
I have a neat mast gate supplied by Z Spars who I have found helpful - last year they posted me a spare part for about £2 after 20 minutes on the phone helping me identify the solution to my problem. Whether it would fit a J22 mast I don't know.

Posted on 21/1/2003 at 11:22:15 PM by steve edwards
The mainsail slides exit the slot designed for that purpose. I have the same problem. The cure is a gate. People cleverer than I have used carpet runner, the stuff that joins under the door, to narrow the slot when sailing. OK but how do you you open the gate to remove the sail when you want to. The principal is simple enough but to fabricate without engineering equipment? Watch this space as I need to solve this simpely(Bloody E's don't fit anywhere again). Have some thoughts off the internet let me know if you sort before I do. Have lots of ideas, robbed, for single line reefing and generally sailing single handed. However my problems may have been solved by a 16 year old niece who has suddenly taken an interest in sailing and seems to have a natural talent. The only problem that her 57 year old uncle (Overweight, blood pressure, diabietic)is not certain he is up to a trapeze on a Dart18. If you see a Jag22 or a Dart seemingly out of control on Rutland water it's me.

Posted on 22/1/2003 at 01:03:22 PM by Dick Hicks
To stop the sail falling out, fit a 3mm Ø Stainless Steel Split pin just above the slot. Drill a Ø3 hole thro' both sides and use a split pin about 10mm longer than the thro' hole, if slightly opened it will stay in by friction - make sure you tie it on though!! Worked fine on a Vivacity 20 years ago.
Should be easy to drill with a cordless drill.

Posted on 22/1/2003 at 05:31:27 PM by marv adkin
Has any body tried a bungy, just wrap around the slot twice and hook it to itself, simple........and it works> cost about £2.50, effort, about 30 seconds. cheerss marv

Posted on 24/1/2003 at 08:38:35 PM by Christine
You'll have to excuse my slowness of mind here, but if I bungy the slot off so the sail slugs can't get out, how do I put a reef in, as the slugs have to come down to be able to reef the sail? Actually rereading that through, not sure if you'll understand what I'm trying to say, but here's hoping.

Posted on 25/1/2003 at 00:14:00 AM by paul
I wondered about the bungy idea, as certainly on my boat several slugs come down past the gate when the sail is reefed. Lots of low cost lateral thinking solutions out there, but the bit of cast ally I have does work perfectly and just swings out of the way when you want to remove the sail.

Posted on 24/1/2003 at 07:59:37 AM by Dick Hicks
Well, you can't get any simpler than a bungy cord, and I thought my split pin solution was simple!!

Posted on 23/1/2003 at 04:42:17 PM by Steve Edwards
I do hate people who have nice simple solutions to problems I have been trying to solve for months.

Posted on 23/1/2003 at 10:34:16 PM by Laurie Milton
HOW about some sketches of some of these ideas, for SEACATS?

Posted on 23/1/2003 at 06:01:20 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Close one side of the slot off, with an ally strip, by drilling and pot riviting on. Make another swinging ally strip on the other side, with a hole in the bottom part, so that a split pin can be inserted to another corresponing hole in the mast.! Simple! Cost about 2pence.

70. HOW TO GET A SMOOTH BOTTOM ?
Posted on 25/1/2003 at 00:14:00 AM by paul
I have to remove all the antifouling this year and start again if I am to have a smooth bottom (my boat that is, not me). What do people recommend? Scrape or use interstrip? It's only a 21, not so much work I hope!

Posted on 27/1/2003 at 01:18:02 PM by Jeremy Knight
I had to strip my keel this winter. I used Dilunett. Not cheap but it certainly seemed to work better than the bloke down the yard from me who was using interstrip. About the best that could be said for that was that it dicouloured the antifouling.
But here's the warning. Even at 21' it won't be a simple job. My keel alone took 2 weekends of fairly solid effort. Admittedly there were about 20 years or so of antifouling + undercoats but in the end I resorted to a hammer and chisel! What with the price of dilunett I would give serious consideration to employing the services of a slurry blaster if you can. The cost would be a bit more, but the end result and the saving in effort probably worth it.
The other thing is not to underestimate the power of the chemicals. I thought I was pretty roughy toughy, but even though I wore gloves, my hands came out in an nasty rash. The last time I saw anything like it was on a friend after a visit to Bangkok. Yuch. I would very strongly advise tight gloves, overalls and some sort of head covering. Also buy several pots of swarfega. I even had to use it in my hair to get clean.
By the way, the keel looks lovely, but if it ever rusts again I will turn into a cry baby!

Posted on 27/1/2003 at 11:46:03 PM by paul
Thanks for the advice - It's a real help, shows the value of this board! I will search for dilunett and set aside a couple of weekends....... my crew have been pressganged to help, not this time with the shilling in the bottom of the beer glass although beer will definitely feature as will gloves, hats, etc!

Posted on 28/1/2003 at 10:02:33 PM by Laurie
Dilunett is foul stuff; wear gloves & goggles if under the boat, I got some in my eye once.........

71. J21 MAST FOOT
Posted on 25/1/2003 at 04:40:29 PM by Grant
Anyone know where to get a replacement mast foot for a '84 J21?

Posted on 26/1/2003 at 11:50:20 AM by Laurie Milton
Contact Jaguar Yachts Ltd!

72. CURTAIN TRACK
Posted on 25/1/2003 at 08:57:17 PM by Christine
Where can I get that bracketless curtain track (in plastic) from that you use to fasten top and bottom of the curtain. do you know the one I mean?

Posted on 26/1/2003 at 01:06:26 PM by Gordon Bellenie
Telescopic curtain track from any curtain shop. They should also sell the pins for each end fixing to the side of window. Push rod through each hem top and bottom of curtain!. Rods cost about £4-£8 each!.

Posted on 26/1/2003 at 07:39:35 PM by Colin Bishop
If you are anywhere near a Wilkinson discount shop you can get them for half that price. The self adhesive fixings grip very well although I don't know about their longevity in the Marine environment

Posted on 27/1/2003 at 08:56:29 AM by Ian Buck
Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol before you stick the track to it.

Posted on 28/1/2003 at 09:39:38 PM by Christine
Thanks for the info, that should stop me setting fire to the curtains. At this rate I'll have the boat refitted before the children leave home.

73. J22 MKII HEADROOM
Posted on 26/1/2003 at 00:04:27 AM by Aileen Marshall
Can anyone tell me if the (seated) headroom is any greater in the J22 Mk II version? We're both 6'1 ie a boat salesman's nightmare!

Posted on 26/1/2003 at 11:56:07 AM by Laurie
No, unless you have the rare pop top? I'm 6'5" & had a 22......loved it! Why not join the JOA? Details are on site.....you'd be very welcome!

Posted on 27/1/2003 at 10:42:22 PM by Aileen Marshall
There is the option of a pop top mk II available but is the extra headroom only there when the top's 'popped'?

Posted on 28/1/2003 at 09:58:58 PM by Laurie
.......fraid so..........

74. J22 INSPECTION OF THE SWINGING ASSEMBLY
Posted on 27/1/2003 at 11:41:53 AM by Peter Ferguson
I am very pleased to report that this last weekend I have been able to lift our J22 'SnowBird' and remove the swinging pin for inspection. All I can say is Wow! The wow is for several reasons.
1. Working under the boat for several hours, really make your arms ache the
next day.
2. Wow because although doing it in January, we were fortunate enough to choose one of the hottest January weekends ( not so dry though)
3. Wow because after seeing the Pin on the internet I thought it was about the width of a finger, but in fact it is massive! Nearly 1 1/2 inches in diameter made out of solid stainless steel. (I don't see why it would wear through in a 100 years with normal use, but I am just a layman)
4. Still got to put it back in. Only problem I had was that one of the previous owners had sealed it in with sicoflex. When I undid the bolt the keel still didn't drop out!
When I come to replace it should I use and sealant?? (thoughts?) If there is suitable demand I don't mind writing a report (with lots of photos) and giving to association. Equally if there is anyone out there in two minds of doing this job, please feel free to ask me questions ( The reply will be positive!)
photos of the Swing Pin removed

75. DISPLACEMENT RATIO
Posted on 29/1/2003 at 04:39:13 PM by Doug hughes
Do any of you budding yacht designers out there have the formula to work out the displacement ratio of a yacht? I've forgotten/lost the bit of paper with it on! Also what is disp.ratio of a J25?

Posted on 30/1/2003 at 09:11:49 AM by Jeremy Knight
Now you've got me onto a subject! There are as many different formulas for the displacement ratio as there are posh boats in Monaco. The formuli are difficult to write here because the notice board doesn't do powers. So read % as to the power of.....
The basic displacement formula I tend to use, which I am guessing is what you are refering to is the sail area to displacement ration. The formula is sail area/(Displacement/64)|/3. The sail area should be in square feet, the displacement in lbs and the |/3 means to the power of 2/3 or 0.66667. A result of 12 or so is moderate. Over twenty is flighty.
Also of interest is displacement/length ration being long ton displacement /(0.01*length water line)%3. %3 being cubed of course. Long ton displacement = displacement/2240. An answer of less than 100 is an ultra light flyer, round about 150 is light, 200-300 moderate and over 300 a heavy old tug.
Theoretical hull speed is 1.34*square root of LWL. Balast ratio is balast weight/displacement with 0.33 being average.
Two interesting ones are the comfort ratio which is displacement/(2/3*((0.7*LWL)+(1/3*LOA))*Beam%3/4). This one takes into account the beam of course as well as the LWL and the bow/stern shape (by using LOA) but putting more emphasis on LWL. Essentially the higher the more comfortable it is, and this is useful in comparison with other boats. Finally there is the capsize screening formula. It is simply beam/(displacement/64),/3. Beware with this one. It works for a traditional hull shape, but for something like an open 60 (Massive beam, minnimal freeboard, flat deck, canting keel etc) the formula goes to cock.
Hope this helps. It may be interesting to calculate the formulas for the whole Jag range - Laurie let me know if you would like me to run them through the sausage machine for a future seacats.

Posted on 31/1/2003 at 11:18:48 AM by doug hughes
Many thanks for a very detailed answer to my question. In these days of RCD and Points of vanishing stability blah blah.. it might be helpful to know the ballast ratios for the whole of the Jag/Catalina range. Could be useful for someone intending to buy?