Summary of the Jaguar 21

The Jaguar 21, designed by John Mullins, as was the 23, was built from 1978 to the late nineties. It is rumoured that a company has bought the Jaguar name, & may start building the 21 again (Walnut Boats).

It was available as a fin or lift keel version. Most were the latter. The fin has a 4’ draft, & both variants are competitive in club racing

The accommodation is open plan with 4 berths, a decent galley forward of the port berth, & adequate headroom. The keel case, in the lift keel variant, is not intrusive, & does not restrict access to the forward berths. Storage is plentiful, under the berths, with a chemical loo, forward, under the V berth.

The cockpit is well designed for 4 adults, & there is easy access forward along the wide side decks. The stern has a well for an outboard from 4 – 6hp.

The 21 has an easily managed fractional rig, & is renowned for vice free performance, enabling both racers, cruisers, & the inexperienced to get a lot of enjoyment.

Construction is conventional mat, isophalic gel coats, balsa cored deck. The only thing to watch for is the rubbing strake, which can sometimes detach.

L Milton

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INTRODUCTION TO THE JAGUAR 21

(extract from the original owners manual)

Having purchased your boat, you will no doubt be familiar with the thinking behind the Designer's thoughts when creating the Jaguar 21. We do not set out in this manual to teach the owner how to sail, since we assume that he or she has prior experience. However, we are confident that you will have many hours of pleasure with your friends and family in your new boat, and to help you use and maintain your investment, we offer the following information. The items are laid out in the order in which we feel you may deal with fitting out, having just taken delivery from the Builder, and based on our experience during many hours of trials.

LIFELINES:
In the interests of personal safety before walking about on deck, either afloat or ashore, the boat should be securely chocked in a level position, and the stanchions and lifelines should be fitted. It may be that they are fixed when the boat is delivered or collected from the Builder. However, for general reference, the lifelines will have been threaded through the tops of the stanchions, with an eye spliced at either end. Enter the stanchions into the bases on deck in the corresponding order either side, and lock in position with the pins, bolts or screws provided.

It is best to grease the inside of the base sockets when this is done; it will help if you want to remove them at the end of a hard season, which could be difficult due to dirt and salt corrosion. Attach the forward ends of the lifelines to the pulpit with the rigging links provided.

Attach the aft ends of the lifelines to the pushpit with the lanyards provided, reeving and threading all of the lanyard, leaving enough only to tie off and secure the lashing. To prevent the lashing coming undone, it can be bound with self-adhesive tape. The forward attachment to the pulpit should also be taped. The tension on the lifelines should be moderate. After a certain amount of initial use the lines will stretch and slacken, and this should be taken up and made off as already described.

DRESSING MAST
Place the mast on trestles or some sort of support just off the ground. Dress the mast, which means arranging the rigging so it is ready to hand when the mast is stood up on deck.

Place the wire rigging down the correct Port or Starboard side, together with flag halliard, which can be made off on the small plastic cleat provided. Pull both ends of the foresail and main halliards to the bottom of the mast on their respective fore or aft sides. Before doing this, it is important to 'tie a 'figure of eight' knot in the bottom of the rope tails of these halliards, to prevent losing the ends inside the mast. Attach the spreaders to the stainless roots, which are about half way up the spar, and secure in their swept back and slightly up position with the locking bolts provided.

Pull the main cap shrouds down and place in the small notch at the outer end of each spreader. Fix the shroud to the spreader with soft galvanised or stainless steel seizing wire, using the small hole provided, also at the end of the spreader.

To prevent the possibility of the sails catching on any sharp end of the seizing wire, we recommend you tape over the end of the spreader and the shroud, but when doing this make sure the spreader is pushed fully in an up position, and.the shroud is stretched tightly in the downwards direction. This allows for the rigging to stretch without distortion to the spreader roots, when the full load is taken on the mast when under way.

If you have fitted a spinnaker halliard and spi. pole lift, make sure that they pass
out of their respective top exit sheave box and down to the deck through the stainless steel eyes, which are attached to the mast just below the exit sheaves. These eyes are to maintain a fair rope lead to the sheaves when the halliard and lift is being used.

Attach the larger rigging screws (or bottle screws) to the main cap shrouds, and the smaller to the lower shrouds. Make sure that the bottle screws are fully extended with a minimum 5 full threads at each end entered into the barrel.

Tie off the rigging in order to the bottom of the mast. A light string or masking tape can be used. Don't tie off any further along the mast from the bottom than you can reach when the mast is stood up on deck. Finally, check everything again for the full length of the mast, and make sure that all shackles that will be aloft are tightened with pliers, and that all split pins are entered and properly turned.

ERECTING MAST
Do not attempt to erect the mast in a high wind. Place the mast along the centreline of the ship, with the top hanging over the transom, and the bottom adjacent to the mast step, aft side down. Fix foot of mast to step with the pivot pin, and make sure to secure with split pins either side. Attach the lower shrouds with bottle screws to the eye bolts on the cabin roof, having separated them from the other wires, and the mast should be ready to erect.

Ideally it is best to stand the mast up with three people, pushing up from the cockpit hand over hand with two until the mast is upright. Then the third person can separate the forestay, which is of fixed length, and attach it to the eye bolt on the foredeck with a shackle while the other two hold the mast vertical. Having already fixed the lowers to the deck, this will help support the mast athwartships as it goes up. Again, separate from the mast, and fix the main cap shrouds to the eye bolts in the side decks, which then make the mast safe.

When the mast has been safely stepped, and to ensure it is straight before the sails can be set, the following adjustments must be carried out in the following order:-

(i) Tighten the forestay shackle with pliers.

(ii) Take up the slack on the main cap shrouds, making sure that the same amount of threads are taken up in both bottle screw barrels - this will ensure that the mast is upright, which is important.

(iii) Finally, tighten these main shrouds down with a moderate amount of tension.

(iv) The lower shrouds are next, and should be adjusted in the same way as the main shroud, but the final tension on these lowers should only be slight. Also, great care should be taken with the final adjustment, since these particular shrouds will control the straightness of the mast athwartships, so sighting up the aft side of the mast when final tensioning is made, is essential.

(v) The backstay bridle can now. be fixed, one leg of the bridle fixed to the Starboard, and the other to the Port pushpit, to the loops provided, with stainless steel shackles or rigging links. Tie off the bottom of the backstay to the top of the bridle, with the lanyard provided. The tension applied should be such as to bend the top of the mast slightly aft.

(vi) Next, check all the rigging and make sure all the bottle screw locknuts are tight and that all split pins are turned and taped up. This must be done in the interests of safety, due to wind vibration on mast and rigging, even when the boat is moored and not in use.

(vii) Finally, after you have sailed your J.21 for, say 5 to 6 hours in moderate wind strength, the standing rigging supporting the mast will settle in, stretch a little and slacken. The rigging should be tightened up in the same manner as described in items (i) to (vi), and following the same order. Failure to make these adjustments affects the performance of the boat whilst sailing, and causes undue wear and tear.

ATTACHING MAIN BOOM
Attach the boom to the mast via the goose neck fitting. It is a good idea to apply a little oil or light grease, making the fitting run easily. The boom can be held horizontal by using the main halliard as a topping lift, attaching it to the aft end of the boom with the snap shackle, and cleating off the rope tail to the mast cleat.

MAIN SHEET
Having supported the boom as described, the mainsheet can now be fitted, again make sure that any split pins are turned and taped.

KICKING STRAP
The kicking strap is a four part system and its attachment to the mast and boom, together with its adjustment and use under sail is mentioned later.

GETTING UNDER WAY
The combination and selection of sails to be used will depend on the skipper and the prevailing conditions, and will vary with the experience of the helmsman. However, during many hours of cruising and trials before the production of the J.21. we were very pleased with the flexibility of the of the sailing rig.

With the standard sails set, i.e.. Mainsail and working Jib, a very good all round performance is achieved in wind strengths up to force 4-5, above this taking a reef as required in the Mainsail. Even with the shortened sail area, the boat behaves very well in the heavier weather without interfering with her balance. In moderate to heavy winds she will handle well under Jib alone. - The ability to sail under Headsail only, we found very convenient for entering marinas or confined water under sail, not to mention the greatly improved all round vision obtained without Mainsail on approaching mooring or jetty.

If you have bought a Genoa as an extra with the boat, you will find this will improve even further the light weather performance. In fact, with a fairly heavy crew of three, she sailed very fast with the Genoa set in wind forces up 5 during racing, with a good result.

The spinnaker is quite generous in area, and makes for good speed down wind especially for racing. Spinnakers can be very exhilarating to fly if handled properly, by a competent crew, so we would recommend any owner without such knowledge to seek advice, or better still have one or two practice sessions with an experienced person before attempting to set a sail of this kind.

(a) Mainsail
Whilst the boom is still supported by the main halliard, attach the clew of the sail to the boom by inserting into the aft end of the boom the plastic slides which are sewn to the sail. Attach the tack end of the sail with a shackle.

Reeve the outhaul with a 'figure of eight' knot at the aft end of boom, passing through the sail round the cheek block on the side of the boom into the clam cleat further along the boom, and take up the slack.

Insert sail battens into their respective pockets in the sail, i.e., long at the top, short at the bottom, and two medium length in the middle.

Follow the luff of the sail through from the bottom to the top, to remove any folds or twists and insert the head board into the luff groove entry. The main halliard can be attached to the sail with snap shackle, and the sail is ready to hoist. Make sure to uncleat or slacken the mainsheet and kicking strap before doing so.

Except when reefed, the mainsail should be hoisted as high as possible - a last tug on the halliard before 'dealing off will enable you to feel the plastic ball stop reaching its highest point. The surplus rope halliard tail can be coiled away at the foot of the mast.

To tighten the kicking strap, apply a fair amount of weight on the mainsheet, this will enable you to exert a good amount of tension on the kicking strap. This is essential if it is to fulfil its function of preventing the boom from lifting, when reaching or running before the wind. Thread and make off the Cunningham hole line and the mainsail is ready to use. The adjustment to the Cunningham and outhaul lines are mentioned under 'Tuning'.

(b) Genoa and Jib (Headsail).
Hank the sail to the forestay in the usual way. Attach the halliard, and hoist it until the tack of the sail is approximately 6" (15cm) above the deck, and make fast. The luff of the sail is then tensioned by the small block and tackle. Do not hoist the headsails so high that the halliard wire to rope spliced seizing becomes exposed out of the bottom of the mast sheave. This will cause unfair wear. The halliard should always be cleated off with the seizing just inside the mast and off the bearing surface of the sheave. The headsails should be sheeted wth the sheet itself falling between the main and lower shrouds to the fairleads, which should be 6" from the aft end for the Genoa. Final position of the fairlead is mentioned under 'Tuning'. It pays to reeve the sheets before hoisting the sail.

(c) Spinnaker
A spinnaker should only be flown with experience as already mentioned. The setting arrangement we recommend has the halliard and spi pole lift leaving the mast and leading back to the cockpit.

FINE TUNING
Fine tuning of the mast and sails will make the rig efficient, or to put it another way, "make your engine go faster", not to mention the kinder wear and tear on the boat. The final tuning should be done under way, when sailing in conditions typical for your area. This can be accomplished with the following adjustments:-

(a) Tuning Mast.
Before leaving the mooring, make sure that the main cap shrouds are tight, as previously described, (lets say very firm, but not bar tight). Having got under way, and sailing on port tack, sight up the mast from the base. If the middle (where the spreaders are) is sagging to leeward, then tighten the lower shroud bottle screw until the mast is straight athwartships. Repeat this procedure on the starboard tack. If the mast is bending to windward, then the lower shroud should be slackened a litlle until the mast is straight. When these adjustments have been satisfactorily made to the lowers, it may be necessary to tighten or slacken the backstay so that the mast bends slightly forward from the top of the forestay down. After tuning is completed don't forget to lock the lower shroud bottle screws, and finally secure the back stay again.

After heavier winds, if the wire rigging stretches slightly, it may be necessary to repeat tuning trials. Help from an experienced sailing friend will lead to a properly tuned mast.

(b) Tuning Jib or Genoa.
When sailing close hauled the sheet fairlead should be positioned on its sliding track so that if an imaginary line was cast from the fairlead through the clew of the sail (where the sheets are attached) it would reach a point half way up the length of the luff. For good windward performance the Genoa can be sheeted in on the winch until the leach is about 2" from the spreader. The leach line showing about 9" up from the clew should be slackened until the sail starts to flap, and tightened little at a time until it stops. If the line is over tightened this will cause the aft edge of the sail to curl, which is detrimental to the sail's performance. This applies to both Genoa and Jib.

If the luff of the sail slackens or bellies from hank to hank, then pull on the downhaul and tension it. The luff of any headsail should be like a knife cutting through the air.

Mainsail Tuning
Again the tuning of the mainsail should be carried out whilst sailing close
hauled. In light weather conditions the Cunningham hole line should be slackened right off. The foot of the Mainsail, as you will see, is loose footed and you will find this makes for easy sail adjustment with good effect. Slacken off the outhaul so that the sail is 1" - 2" away from the side of the boom. Adjust the leach line as previously described for the Headsail. Make sure that the head of the sail is fully hoisted, and the sail is fully tuned.

Stronger Wind Tuning.
As the wind increases it will be necessary to get rid of excess wind power in the mainsail. This is achieved by flattening the sail, which is done by pulling down on the Cunningham hole line, an 1" or so at a time. The increased tensioning of the luff will cause the flow of the sail to move aft, having a flattening effect. At the same time, if the outhaul line is pulled on, it will move the clew of the sail further aft. This will help flatten the sail. The amount of combination of the two adjustments will depend of the conditions and experience gained with the passing of time.

LIFTING KEEL
The Keel is made of cast iron. It weighs 550 Ibs. and slides up and down in a G.R.P. case on nylon rollers attached to the keel itself. The G.R.P. keel case is moulded into the hull when it is laid up, which forms a one piece moulding. This eliminates any joints below the waterline. The Keel is lifted and lowered by means of a reduction winch, via a heavy duty nylon webbing strap. The strap has been tested to lift six times the weight of the keel. Always keep the winch oiled, and since the strap can be seen, in the event of any unlikely wear, this can be observed.

Whenever the boat is under sail the keel must be locked in the down position with the pin provided. If you have purchased a fin keel version of the J .21 this will speak for itself. However, the shape, section, weight and position of the keel below the hull is identical to that of the lift keel version.

RUDDER
Whether you have bought a fin keel or lifting centreboard version of the J.21 the profile shape of the rudder blade will be the same, and made of hardwood. The rudder for the fin keel boat will be of the fixed type, with the lifting tiller arrangement bolted direct to the head of the rudder. The rudder assembly for the lifting keel version, as you will see, has alloy box cheeks, again with a lifting tiller, which is transom hung as a unit, and the rudder blade slides into the box section from the top to the required depth. The rudder blade can be kept in the 'up' position with the pin provided.

Always steer the boat with the rudder fully down, subject to depth, and with the tiller in the horizontal position. In both cases the tiller is of the lifting type to make room for installing the outboard engine, and to give unrestricted room in the cockpit on the mooring or in a marina.

INTERNAL BALLAST
The internal ballast of the lifting keel J.21 is situated in pockets under the forward ends of the main bunk tops, approximately 115 Ibs. each side. The fin keeler has the same, but with two extra pigs, also in floor pockets, either side of the centre line adjacent to the keel area. The extra weight is to allow for the lack of the centreboard case on this model. The ballast can be removed if trailing weights require. Do not sail the boat without the ballast.

ANCHORS AND MOORING
3 no. 8" mooring cleats are provided, one on either quarter. An anchor is a definite necessity on all boats. The Builder suggests the use of the 15 Ibs. C.Q.R. anchor supplied, which together with the 4 meters of 1/4" chain and 30 metres of 12 mm. Polyester rope, should be effective enough in general conditions.

However, depending upon the depth of the water, the size of swells, wind strength and changes in tidal levels enquiries should be made in your local area or places you intend to visit, about anchoring procedures. Be sure to ask several experienced people, and always play it on the safe side when 'making up' your anchor and in using it. Don't forget to wire all shackle pins so they cannot come loose under water.

If your boat is moored in deep water, leave the keel down. This will enable her to lay to the tide, and the channel, along with the other boats, and not to the wind. It is a good idea not to lock the keel down on the mooring, because in the unfortunate event that she breaks adrift, at least if she runs ashore unattended and the tide leaves her, the keel has a chance of sliding up, and the boat might finally come to rest in an upright position.

If the boat is tied up to a mooring that dries out, leave her with the keel in the locked up position. It is advisable to lift out the rudder blade completely, and stow down below. If you want the boat to lay to the tide before she dries out, then hang a strong bucket over the stem.

Always lash the tiller when leaving the boat, whether it be in the centre or to one side. The owners of the adjacent boats will tell you. Better still as mentioned before, ask your local Harbour Master for advice. Finally, when you leave the mooring, make sure the halliards are stopped off away from the mast. The continual banging and rattling of wire or rope against the side of the mast in a wind won't help the anodised coat, not to mention causing annoyance by the noise to your immediate neighbours at night.

OUTBOARD MOTOR
As you will see, an outboard well is moulded into the cockpit, the advantages of which over a standard transom bracket, will become apparent. At the time of going to press two engines have been tested with success, which were the long shafted Tomas 4 and 4.5 h.p., and the Johnson 4 h.p. Both pushed the boat over a foul tide very well, although in each case 120 mm or 5" pitch (respectively) were found more powerful over the standard propeller supplied with the engine. Also, it helps to adjust the shaft to be as upright as possible for maximum thrust. As other engines are tested by the Builder, and prove successful, the names of these will be added to this item. In any event, contact your local engine dealer for advice. When not in use the engine can be stowed in the Starboard cockpit locker. If the propeller is put in first, and pushed aft towards the transom, the power head can set in the grip tray mould in the locker.

There is also a moulded space for a petrol can. Both the engine and the petrol can should be secured before sailing. As a precautionary note, never open the engine locker whilst smoking.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE AND INFORMATION.
(a) Stowage.
As you will see, there is plenty of stowage down below under the various bunks, and long open bins behind the back rests which are ideal for woollies, coats and other lightweight items. The port cockpit locker is moulded to stow the 15 Ib C.Q.R. anchor, gas bottle, and battery, and take other items, such as ropes, fenders etc.

(b) Water Tank
The fresh water filler cap is placed in the forward well. This runs through by hose to the storage tank moulded in the forward part of the cabin under the bunks, and has a capacity of gallons. The water is then drawn by hand pump to the galley sink. The tank has an air breather, and if overfilled the water merely drains out into the self draining forward well, and away over the side.

(c) Woodwork
All the external teak trim should periodically be rubbed down with fine glass paper, and a coat of oil applied with a cloth. This will keep the timber looking bright.

(d) Hull and Deck
The hull and deck are constructed of glass reinforced polyester G.R.P. Above the water line both the topsides and deck can be washed down with soapy water, and polished with Simonize Wax. Any small scratches can be removed with a light abrasive burnishing paste. Below the water line, the same will apply. Anti-fouling paint can be applied provided that the appropriate etching primer is used (following the instructions of any worthy paint company). Another method is to lightly rub down the gel coat with not less than 250 grit wet and dry abrasive paper to form a keyed area. Apply one coat of 2 pot polyurethane and then two coats of anti-fouling. Following the same method, paint the keel and rudder blade below the waterline.

(e) Fittings
Always keep snap shackles, piston hanks, hinges, gooseneck, blocks etc. very lightly oiled, not forgetting the main hatch padlock, and grease the sheet winches.

(f) Sails and Ropes
Use your sails with care and attention - this will prolong their life and performance. Fold them after use, and stow away. Never be frightened to take them home and wash them with warm soapy water in the bath, although if this in not convenient most Sailmakers offer a good repair and laundering service. The Jib and mainsheet can be kept free of that nasty stiffening when salt water dries into them - again a good wash in soapy water and a thorough rinse will keep the ropes soft to handle.

(g) Gas
If you intend to fit a gas stove, we advise you to enquire about any local installation regulations or restrictions imposed by your Insurers.

(h) Training and Storage
When trailing or storing your boat make sure the hull is well supported across the flat bottom area 12" in front of the keel and at a point, say, 12" aft of the cabin entrance step. It is important to lower the keel until its full weight is resting on the trailer or ground, onto a piece of packing.

(i) W.C.
A space in the forward area of the cabin is available to install either a chemical or Sea toilet. For further information consult your local or main agent, or the Builder.

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Replacing the webbing strap that lifts the keel

- some observations from owners that have done it

Firstly, some observations from Andy Long

A lot will depend on the particular arrangement in the boat, as there have been a number of mods over the years. My boat was one of the first built and did not even have a locking pin to hold the keel up or down - hence the problem occurred to me - that to change the strop when afloat would be impossible. I have done a number of mods to overcome this.

First, I made a pin arrangement to support the keel in the "up" position, so that I can let the tension off the strop. Then, in order to get the strop bolt out of the aft roller bracket on the keel, I made a 1" hole through the keel inner and outer casings (fibreglass and plywood) on the port side. This hole lines up with the strop bolt (when the keel is right up) and is big enough for a 13mm socket. On the starboard side, there was already a 4" hole in the fibreglass keel casing, aft. So, with the outer plywood panel removed, no mod was required on this side.

With the boat ashore, of course, the pin is not needed, as the keel can be blocked at a convenient height, so that it may be possible to remove the strop bolt via the 4" hole on the starboard side without needing access from the port side. However for this to be possible, the nut will have to be on the port side! It should be possible to reach the nut with a spanner via the second (larger) access hole in the keel case starboard side with the keel lowered slightly. Again, individual boats will vary as to the size and position of these access holes.

The second, 6" diameter hole, is provided to access the nylon bosses at top of the keel. These are the round nylon bosses which act as "stops" to prevent the keel lowering right out of the boat. They are attached by a length of studding (which is screwed through a threaded hole in the keel) and nuts on either side. I could not really see the point in using studding and have replaced it with a plain (and stronger) stainless bolt, after drilling out the threaded hole in the keel. I put the nut on the port side. Now, when I have to take the keel out, I can remove both bosses from the starboard side.

On my boat, there is also an access hole on the port side for the port boss, though removal of the boss required the port plywood panel and galley to be dismantled and removed first!

Andy Long

Fraser Monaghan writes...

I bought my J21 at the end of last year, it had been laid up and neglected for 5 years so and required a bit of maintenance and TLC. Having read an article in "Sailing Today" (Sept 2000), of a J21 whose keel suddenly parted company with the boat to the depths below, it raised my concerns as to the condition of the strap.

I removed the wooden panels around the keel case, at the top of the keel box, are, on each side, 2 circular holes of about 4 inch dia. The middle ones - about half way along exposed 2 large nylon washers about 1.5 inch dia & .5 inch dia thick, on each side and bolted through. I did not try to remove them, I think their purpose is to provide lateral support as the keel slides down the casing.

The aft circular holes allow inspection of the webbing eye, secured to the aft end, mild steel channel plate bracket by a rod which appears to have a slotted end (or slotted both ends?). Like yourself, screwdrivers and impact driver would not move it, eventually after much sweating & swearing, having burned out several drill bits, the rod was weakened sufficiently and driven out.

A new rod was made up from 10mm dia, stainless steel bar, threaded at one end and slotted at the other to take a screwdriver. The threaded end is well greased and bound in PTFE tape to ensure it won't rust. I intend to inspect it on a regular basis.

A new strap was made up by Lifting & Crane Services, Unit 2, Subrook Trading estate, Llanthony Road, Gloucester, GL2 5QZ. (Tel 01452 504266) with a sewn loop at the end & certificate to 2T!! This firm provided an excellent service & charged £5 Inc P&P. Excellent value I think.
The boat was on a trailer, using the winch it was now possible to drop and raise the keel 18 inches or so.

I removed a GRP panel on the hog and a very old brittle rubber seal, the purpose of which would be to act as a baffle and restrict mud etc from getting into the keelbox and to stop wave splash inside the keelbox. With this removed, limited inspection of the keelbox was possible from under the boat. From inside the boat, through the cut holes, using a small mirror it was just about possible to view the keel operation from the top.

With the boat now in the water it is possible to lower & raise the keel and this operation appears to be satisfactory, but fairly heavy work on the winch is required. I have marked the winch strap to show when to stop lowering and then insert the retaining pin.

Fraser Monaghan.

Mike Senior, Jaguar 21 sail no.84

The problem I encountered when changing the strap was that the bolt to which it is attached was rusted in solid. As far as I could see there was not enough clearance to sew a new strap in situ, though one end was plain with no loop. On my boat there was a small access hole on one side (starboard I think) but the screw head was on the port side. There might be screwdriver slots on both ends.

After breaking screw drivers including impact driver blades I drilled the screw out from the rear but because the screw was stainless in a mild steel channel (I think) the drill wandered and damaged the channel threads. I did get it all back together with a new screw and filler on the damaged thread but really wanted to replace the channel. I could probably cut out a bigger access hole but that might weaken the keel box so the only way seems to be to remove the keel.

I think the keel can be removed through the bottom if the plastic stops are first removed. As far as I remember there are three of these though I'm not sure how accessible they are except that I thought I could remove them. To lower it fully you need clearance below, which I don't have on my trailer so I considered digging a hole and/or jacking up the trailer. Alternatively it might be possible to hoist the boat if the right equipment was available. The other problem would be getting it back in again in such a restricted space and I thought of making a support frame to hold it just before it came out.

Mike Senior
Peterborough, sailing mainly from King's Lynn.

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Jim Hamilton (Sandy Patch, now at Bucklers Hard) writes...... For interest I have these two photos of my keel being re-furbished by JK Marine (at Dell Quay). They manufactured two new slider boxes which can be seen with one of the old ones which had rusted up solid. My hull number is quite early (no 44) and the design may have changed since. JK Marine did a good honest job I thought.